Beckett oil burner model# SA556YKPA-5733 ?

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  #1  
Old 01-06-13, 12:33 PM
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Arrow Beckett oil burner model# SA556YKPA-5733 ?

Hello I have been having some problems with my heater, the first problem was when I smelled raw fuel oil coming from the vents and not getting the best heat, so I had my heating system serviced and they replaced the electrodes the Oil nozzle the pump strainer and the 3616 Beckett universal what ever that is. and cleaned the chimney pipe, this was at the end of November. Now I am getting very good heat and no oil smell, I assume the electrodes were bad not allowing complete combustion causing the smell and low heat.
Now when I set the heat at 62 at night it doesn't kick back on when it gets below 62 the temp gets down to 50 and still wont kick on. when I press the red reset button it comes on and then about 10 or 15 seconds go by and it shuts off, I have to do this 2 or 3 times and it runs with no problems for the rest of the day unless I set it at 62. I installed a new Honeywell programmable thermostat because the other one looked very old and was not level or secured properly to the wall, so I made sure the new one was level and installed properly.My heater will only kick on at 65 or above. I don't want it running a lot in the day while I'm at work. My wife and I just bought the home 4 months ago, the heater wasn't serviced regularly by the old owners judging by the flat electrodes the service technician removed. Oh its a 1989 Skyline Mobile home with forced hot air, assuming its the original unit there are no dates on it, hope this is enough info.
Thank you for any helpful tips.
 

Last edited by brian44220; 01-06-13 at 12:55 PM.
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  #2  
Old 01-06-13, 02:13 PM
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I suggest calling your servicer back. When you have a problem soon after having maintenance done, it's best to call them back as soon as possible. I suspect they have the air/fuel mixture set incorrectly or the flame sensor (cad cell) is misaligned.
 
  #3  
Old 01-06-13, 02:36 PM
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Well the problem is we're not going to be ableto use them anymore because they gave my wife and I a bunch of conflicting information, they don't service mobile home furnaces because the labor is intensive and the only reason they did is because there office had told there tech to come out and service out unit, the person that came out and knew we had a mobile home failed to inform the tech that our unit was in a mobile home. so even though they serviced it they are no longer able to service it. I did read another post saying that air could be in the system, seeing that it only does not work when it's had time to sit and not be active. on would think that if things were miss aligned it would happen more often and thew out the day.
 
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Old 01-06-13, 06:38 PM
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It's possible there's an air leak somewhere. Are there 2 copper lines from the tank to the furnace or just 1?
 
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Old 01-07-13, 05:23 PM
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There is 1 copper line going to the burner, there is also a compression fitting at the end of it, I checked to make sure it's tight and it wont even move, doesn't mean it couldn't be leaking though. I did notice that there is oil leaking out of the left side of the oil burner, there are fore screws holding a square box on, that's where the compression fitting connects to., behind that there is what looks like a paper gasket, I was able to turn the for screws 180, I didn't want to go any farther then that though. behind that there are numbers, looks like a dial. It appears to be leaking around what looks like a clamp or flange type thing.
 
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Old 01-07-13, 05:51 PM
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Uploaded with ImageShack.us Here is a picture of the area it is leaking oil from.
 
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Old 01-07-13, 06:56 PM
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Just FYI, that's not a compression fitting. It is a flare, as it should be. Compression fittings should never be used on oil.

That gasket is a rubber/cork composite.
There are two 5/8" hex head plugs in the bottom of the pump. Make sure they are tight.

What number is that pointer pointing to? I also need the make & model of the furnace in order to get the correct setttings from Beckett's web site.
 
  #8  
Old 01-08-13, 03:06 PM
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Well it says Miller on the door and on the inside it says Nordyne, I think it is a 1989 unit same age as my home, the dial is pointed at the mark between 4 and 6 assuming that is 5, I shecked al the fittings and everything is tight, by the way thank you for you help with this.
 
  #9  
Old 01-08-13, 06:04 PM
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Miller is one brand name made by Nordyne. A model number would help a lot. One of their most popular models was the CMF 80. There should be several stickers in the area of the burner or blower. One of which will contain the model number. I suspect the air/fuel mixture might be off just a little. This can certainly cause the type of problem you are having.
 
  #10  
Old 01-09-13, 04:22 PM
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It is a CMF 80, Now it's starting to act up after it's been running all day with no issues, how would I be able to tell that the air fuel mixture is off and how would that be adjusted.

I don't know if this matters or not but the red lights on the reset box which is marked Honeywel also don't light up, all the wires going to it are tightly secured , this heater is a real winner for sure, I may have to replace the entire unit if we can't fix this.
 

Last edited by brian44220; 01-09-13 at 05:51 PM.
  #11  
Old 01-09-13, 07:28 PM
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If you are willing to work with me, we can fix it. You may get your hands dirty but that's part of working with an oil burner. I always wear Nitrile gloves. Do not wear latex gloves. The oil makes them sticky.

The air should be set at '4'. There should be a 5/16" hex head screw holding the air shutter in place. That screw should be just above the fuel pump. Loosen the screw slightly, adjust the air to '4' & re-tighten the screw making sure the pointer does not move. There is a push button (like a refrigerator light button) which shuts off the burner power when the furnace door is open. That button can be pulled out to power the burner while the door is open. After you make the air adjustment you can pull the button out & if the thermostat is calling for heat, the burner should fire.
 
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Old 01-10-13, 04:06 PM
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I get my hands dirty at work every day working on cars so I'm used to getting a little bit dirty.
I will keep you posted after I make the adjustment.
 
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Old 01-10-13, 04:26 PM
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Old 01-10-13, 04:35 PM
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Ok there are two dials, I guess I didn't stick my head in far enough the first time to see that there are two dials. the one has no numbers on it as you can see the second photo, the fitting on the brass dial was loose, I was able to turn it with my fingers, so I got some channel locks and snugged that one up.
 
  #15  
Old 01-10-13, 05:28 PM
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That 7/16" hex nut attaches to the drawer assembly consisting of: nozzle tube, static plate (including electrode clamp), electrodes, nozzle adaptor, & nozzle. What ever you do, don't move that plate on the side where you tightened the knurled nut. We may have to get into that later but that adjustment is critical & can only be made with the burner pulled out of the furnace.
 
  #16  
Old 01-11-13, 04:07 PM
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Oh I see, I watched a video on youtube about that draw assembly and yes I don't think I want to mess with that either,
Well so far so good my heater kicked right on last night after I turned it down and then again after turning it down to 67. it has been working fine all day. so hopefully this is it for a while, I am in the future going to replace the entire unite, my wife and I have to get the finances more under control seeing that we just bought the house 4 months ago.
Do you think the service guy overlooked that adjustment or something to that effect.
 
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Old 01-11-13, 04:35 PM
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"Do you think the service guy overlooked that adjustment or something to that effect."

Mobile home furnaces can be touchy. Wish I could say I'd never misadjusted the air on a CMF. VERY few service people perform a combustion analysis, particularly on mobile home equipment. The data is so variable making sense out of it can be a real challenge.
 
  #18  
Old 01-11-13, 06:17 PM
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Right I understand no one is perfect and people make mistakes, When working on cars mistakes are almost unavoidable and there are all makes and models just like furnaces I suppose , The guy even said they don't service mobile home because they are labor intensive so he probably hadn't had his hand on one of those for a while or something.

Well thanks for all your help Grady if I have any other issues I will see if your arround.
 
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Old 01-11-13, 06:28 PM
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You're more than welcome. Glad I could help. At one time there must have been about a gazillion of that model furnace around & I think I've worked on most of them.
 
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Old 01-28-13, 04:03 PM
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Well the problem has returned. we have been turning the heat down to 62 in the morning and when we get home we turn it up to 65 then after a brief cool down we turn it up to 68. The heater was running great until this morning for some reason, setting is still on #4 where I set it, had to press the reset to get it to kick on. any idea what the next step is lol?
 
  #21  
Old 01-28-13, 06:56 PM
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OK, I guess it's time to delve a bit deeper into the burner. I'll tell you how to check the electrode settings. If I'm unclear or you have any questions, ask before you jump into it.

Unplug the burner cord from the recepticle in the furnace.

On the furnace side of the big black box (igniton transformer), on top of the burner are two 5/16" hex head machine screws. You can see one in your close up of the burner showing the label. The other is in the same place on the opposite side. Use a nut driver or flat screw driver to loosen them. On each one is a small piece of metal which pivots to hold the transformer down. Swing that metal tab toward the furnace & flip the transformer back toward you.

Use a 7/16" open end to loosen the hex nut inside the knurled ring & slide the hex nut back on the copper tube a little.

Make sure the 5/16" hex screw in that metal plate (with the rounded ends) is good & snug.

Remove the knurled ring & slide it onto the copper tube. You are now ready to remove the drawer assembly.

Push the drawer assembly horizontally to get the flared end clear of the burner housing.

Lift the bent steel tube up & pull toward you to remove the drawer assembly.

Measure the electrode TIPS as follows: They should be 5/16 to 7/16" above the CENTER of the nozzle, 1/16" ahead of the nozzle face, & 1/8 to 5/32" apart. NOTE: A plastic ruler is best to use so you don't scratch the nozzle face.

Don't be afraid to bend the electrodes a bit to get the settings right.

Re-assemble & give the furnace a try.
 
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Old 01-29-13, 05:12 PM
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Ok I think everything looks good now, the electrodes were a little out of adjustment, they were to close to the face and way under 5/32 together. I had to Loosen the screw holding the bracket in place that holds the electrodes in place so I could make the above center adjsment , it fired right up after I got it back together. Took so more photos I will post tomorrow. And let you know how it's running in a day or so.
 
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Old 01-29-13, 05:38 PM
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Thanks Brian. Looking forward to seeing the pictures.
 
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Old 01-30-13, 03:58 PM
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This I believe is the photo cell? looks like it was a little fogged though I didn't clean it off or touch it....
 
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Old 01-30-13, 04:15 PM
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The coils springs are pretty rusty.
 
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Old 01-30-13, 04:21 PM
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Don't know if you can tell that the electrodes are a lot farther the 5/32 apart.
 

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  #27  
Old 01-30-13, 04:26 PM
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The electrodes look warn out, to me anyway, they were replaced Nov 26th 2012
 
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Old 01-30-13, 06:31 PM
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The electrode tips don't look bad at all. With the type of ignition control you have, the ignition stays on the whole time the burner is running thus it eats electrode tips much faster but yours look fine.

The thing that concerns me is all the black (baked on oil film) on the static plate & the dirty cad cell (photo eye). The cad cell can be cleaned with a paper towel which you've sprayed with a cleaner such as Spray Nine or even Windex. Don't spray the eye directly, just the paper towel or soft rag.

Since you now know how to adjust the electrodes, you can remove the drawer assembly & scrub the static plate with carb cleaner & a wire brush. You can use the carb cleaner on the electrodes as well. Don't use the wire brush on the electrodes. A Scotch Brite pad works well.

I would suggest a new nozzle.

I honestly don't believe that heater was cleaned properly or, if it was, you could very well have a cracked heat exchanger. Something is causing a lot of heat to be reflected back onto the drawer assembly.

Once we get thru the heating season, if we can keep the furnace running, I'll explain how to properly clean & inspect the furnace.
 
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Old 01-31-13, 04:21 PM
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Well the heater is running good again so keep my fingers crossed it stays that way for a while,
I will replace the nozzle and clean everything up, I have plenty of carb cleaner at work, and then I will check the condition of everything in a week or two to see if it's still caking the carbon on. is the static plate the plate behind the nozzle?
 
  #30  
Old 01-31-13, 07:15 PM
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Yes, the static plate is the disc thru which the electrodes pass.
 
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Old 02-03-13, 01:48 PM
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Do you think it's ok for me to wait till the weather is warmer to take everything back out clean it , replace the nozzle and do the inspection at that time? Or is this something that chould be taken care of asap?
 
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Old 02-03-13, 03:38 PM
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Let sleeping dogs lie, lest they bite you in the butt when you disturb them.
 
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Old 02-04-13, 04:22 PM
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Well yet again the evil furnace strikes again, did the usual thing turned it down this morning to 62 and she didn't kick back on. I think I will go out and get that nozzle and do some house cleaning this week some time. I will clean up everything and check it in a couple weeks to see if the black comes back,
 
  #34  
Old 02-04-13, 06:21 PM
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Grrrr. While you have the nozzle out, flush the inside of the tube well with carb cleaner & don't forget to clean the cad cell. Windex or about any household cleaner on a paper towel or soft cloth should be fine for that job.
 
  #35  
Old 02-05-13, 02:26 PM
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lol Ok I will do that to.
 
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Old 02-05-13, 05:34 PM
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If you feel adventuresome, without getting in too deep, I can tell you how to check the nozzle insertion depth. Remember that 5/16" hex screw I warned you not to mess with?
 
  #37  
Old 02-06-13, 03:49 PM
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I do remember, that you be good if you could tell me how to check the nozzle depth. I'm not afraid to get down and dirty with this heater so don't hold back.
 
  #38  
Old 02-06-13, 06:34 PM
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You will need the correct burner flange gasket for that furnace. What's on there is a "universal". Check around your area for HVAC supply houses (some will sell to homeowners, some won't) or a place which sells mobile home furnaces. You need a burner flange gasket for a Miller or Intertherm CMF.

Unplug the burner.
Disconnect the nozzle tube from the drawer assembly.
Remove the two bolts holding the pump to the burner body.
Separate the pump from the burner body.
Remove the three 7/16" hex nuts holding the burner to the furnace (9, 12, & 3 o'clock).
TIP: Leave the 12:00 for last.
TIP 2: Flip the transformer back for ease of access to the 12:00 nut.
Slide the burner out.
Lay a straight edge across the face of the cone on the end of the burner & measure to the face of the nozzle. That measurement must be 1 1/8".
If adjustment is needed loosen that 5/16 Hex screw & slide the drawer assembly in or out then lock the hex screw back down.
While you have the burner out, inspect the end cone for warpage, cracks, etc.
If such damage is noticed you will need a Beckett end cone number F0.
Install the new gasket, coat the bolts with anti sieze compound, & start the 7/16 hex nuts.
You will see the burner flange has key hole bolt holes.
Insert the burner so the nuts will go thru the wide part & give the burner a slight twist clockwise.
Snug up the hex nuts starting with the 12:00.
If the pump doesn't go all the way against the body, keep slight pressure against the pump while turning the burner fan. The coupling between the motor & the pump, as well as the pump shaft, has a flat side. Once the flats line up, the pump should slide right in.
QUESTIONS?
 
  #39  
Old 02-06-13, 08:11 PM
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Brian,

Here's something you might find of intrest. http://www.nordyne.com/Literature/067a.pdf
 
  #40  
Old 02-07-13, 04:16 PM
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Wow that was a very informative manual, I looked for one online and but couldn't find one, thanks Grady.
 
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