Go Back  DoItYourself.com Community Forums > Heating, Cooling, Air Conditioning, Ventilation and T-Stat Controls > Gas and Oil Home Heating Furnaces
Reload this Page >

Need help properly gaping electrodes, as well as finding replacement gasket mat

Need help properly gaping electrodes, as well as finding replacement gasket mat


  #1  
Old 01-20-13, 01:52 AM
K
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Need help properly gaping electrodes, as well as finding replacement gasket mat

Hello, I need direction on how I should gap my electrodes on a Iron Fireman Vortex Burner. The nozzle is .75 80A.
I feel that they may not be gaped properly, as sometimes It fails to start and when I examine them they are caked in grime, when I clean that grime off it starts fine for a few times.

also I have a Suntec A1VC-7114 oil pump.

There are two gaskets in it, One being the Cover gasket which is intact and I have a spare of.

The second is the Damaged gasket that I cannot find a replacement of, so will likely have to fabricate one.
It goes between a wafer of 3 round parts that the Shaft Gear goes into, their spring , and the housing. IT in itself is a fairly simple gasket with three larger holes for the through-bolts, and approx 8 or so holes for the oil passages.
The material It is made out of Feels like sort of a combination between tarp material and wax paper, it appears to have one layer of fibers in it.

Could I replace it with another thin, oil resistant gasket material, or Will I need one of the same properties? (it's very smooth, again like wax paper)
 
  #2  
Old 01-20-13, 10:07 AM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Jersey
Posts: 71,003
Received 3,180 Likes on 2,855 Posts
Usually the gap is 1/8 of an inch.

You may also have an intermittent or weak ignition transformer.

I'm not sure of your gasket issue...can't be of much help there.
 
  #3  
Old 01-20-13, 02:05 PM
K
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
What is a good way to test the transformer?
Also if it is bad can it be simply desoldered and replaced, or are other components involved?
 
  #4  
Old 01-20-13, 02:15 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Jersey
Posts: 71,003
Received 3,180 Likes on 2,855 Posts
The transformer is rectangular shaped. Remove the two screws closest to the boiler and the transformer should hinge back. Then you can remove the other two screws. No soldering involved.

I never checked them.....if I suspected it.....I replaced it.
 
Attached Images  
  #5  
Old 01-21-13, 02:55 AM
K
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Ill have to look at it closely tomorrow, i dont recall seeing anything similar to that, i remember that the control unit has a lead marked ign, ill start by tracingthat wire. I do fear that whatever drives the electrodes might be buried deep inside the burner motor itself(very old design)
 
  #6  
Old 01-22-13, 12:21 AM
K
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Well, the IGN terminal on the control unit has no wire to it so I couldn't trace it...
Here are photos of my Furnace unit (again very old design)

You can see the two black cables that go to the electrodes in the middle of this photo. As well as some sort of access panel to their Right in the rear of the unit.
Name:  IMG_0462.jpg
Views: 610
Size:  40.7 KB

Here is the right side of the unit, The upper round Black part I beleive is entierely the motor for the squirrel cage fan/oil pump. However I'm not entirely sure what the box below it does. The Main AC goes directly to it, then from it to the motor above I believe.

Name:  IMG_0463.jpg
Views: 738
Size:  40.4 KB


Would That Black box underneath the motor Likely contain the transformer, or would something inside the access panel more likely?
 
  #7  
Old 01-22-13, 03:28 PM
K
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
SO i pulled it apart as oil was pooling undernath the boiler due to it only burning half of it, and the flame was lopsided, focused to the left and hardly burning on the right.

That lower large box does indeed contain the transformer.

Its not starting again and i noticed when it doesnt start, very little fuel if any is spraying. Oil does indeed come out of the pump (not very forceful, its sort of like a faucet on partially) the nozzle is brand new.

Im going to fabricate a gasket tonight and hopefully the fact its twice as thick as te old one wont cause any major issue 1/16 compared to 1/32.

But im willing to bet that the damaged gasket in the pump is causing the pressure to be too low to properly spray out of the nozzle.
 
  #8  
Old 01-22-13, 03:32 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Jersey
Posts: 71,003
Received 3,180 Likes on 2,855 Posts
Low pressure will not allow the fuel to atomize correctly.....so correcting the pump leak issue should take care of the situation.
 
  #9  
Old 01-22-13, 10:12 PM
K
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
so I bought both a Punch set and pressure gauge at HFT.

Replaced the gasket, bled the hell out of the system, PSI on gauge port Reads at 94-100

When I look inside of it when It is trying to start I can see the Coils creating a violet flame, and the nozzle does not seem to be dispensing ANY oil, so I'm thinking perhaps I got a defective nozzle?

Or do i need to bleed any air between the pump and nozzle?, oil definitely seems to be going towards the nozzle and there are no appear ant blockages when I've segment ally tested segments for flow.

I do have another nozzle on order already that should arrive in two days or so , this one an actual hollow opposed to just a Multipurpose.
 

Last edited by kiyolaka; 01-23-13 at 12:00 AM.
  #10  
Old 01-23-13, 04:26 AM
G
Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 699
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
You should be able to make a stream when blowing thru the gun assembly hard.Don't loose all the oil,take it out level.A .50 will make a stream to if you take a good breath.A stream,not a dribble.Ha-ha,does not taste great.Wont tell you everything,just block,maybe part block,sometimes goes to the side.
 
  #11  
Old 01-23-13, 03:26 PM
K
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Replaced the nozzle... It's spraying again but a good deal of oil is collecting underneath the boiler.


Psi is about 96 (can't find where I adjust it up)

I've tried adjusting the air intake vents, but only seems to make the issue of unspent fuel worse when I increase airflow., Decreasing it causes more smoke and less combustion.

The flame is a very bright orange color.

It also seems like this nozzle may be slowly degrading.

Perhaps defective nozzles?

oil filter and pump strainer are both new. Doesn't really seem to be any sediment on the nozzle's filter cone.

I'm going to make a new thread as the focus has changed.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: