Carrier 58PAV070-12 Burner wont light

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Old 02-10-13, 06:04 PM
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Carrier 58PAV070-12 Burner wont light

Hi, this my first time on this web sight and have spent hours reading, still
amazes me all the info on the web.
Yesterday the wife woke up and turned the furnace and said it was making a horrible noise and shut it off. I took off the cover and discovered the inducer motor was almost froze up. Went to the appliance store and bought a new motor, installed it, furnace still won't light. Now the motor runs, the igniter glows but no gas is coming to the burner. It's flashing a code 34, removed and cleaned the flame scensor, still won't ignite. I'm stupped, two days later! Any advice would be kindly appreciated.
Rick H.
 
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Old 02-10-13, 07:35 PM
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Is the switch on the 24 volt gas valve turned on?
Is the gas valve turned on?
Are you getting 24VAC to the valve after the ignitor glows?
Is the pressure switch closing? (seems like it is if you get a glowing ignitor)



 
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Old 02-11-13, 08:04 AM
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The gas valve is on as well the switch. Voltage at the valve is steady 11.1 then jumps up 26.1 after the igniter glows.
 
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Old 02-11-13, 01:12 PM
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Well you shouldn't have 11 volts across the gas valve. Should be zero.


After the ignitor heats up the ignition control module should turn on 24 vac ACROSS THE GAS VALVE WHICH SHOULD CAUSE THE GAS TO TURN ON.

Disconnect one of the wires on the gas valve and use a multimeter to measure the resistance. Infinite resistance would prove that the gas valve is burned out. If you get a resistance of a number of ohms across the gas valve, it's probably OK --- but report the resistance you get here.
 
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Old 02-11-13, 02:22 PM
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Ok thanks, I'll check that when i get home,about 6:30 and post the results. Thanks again, Rick
 
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Old 02-12-13, 08:25 AM
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Couldn't respond last night,computer froze. I checked the voltages again and were still the same 11 volt constant at the valve then would jump to 24 after the igniter was on for a few seconds. Then checked the resistance as sugggested, there was none.
I don't understand how a furnance that was working well until the inducer motor quit, now it has a gas valve problem. What about the 11 volts, a bad circuit board ?
 
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Old 02-12-13, 03:42 PM
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<<
Then checked the resistance as sugggested, there was none.


Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/gas-oil-home-heating-furnaces/488374-carrier-58pav070-12-burner-wont-light.html#ixzz2KjNr2w8j>>


Sorry, this is vague.


Do you mean the resistance across the gas valve terminals was zero --- a short circuit, or that the resistance was infinite, implying an open circuit?

Please describe in detail how you measured the voltage.

11 VAC being applied to the gas valve when the gas should be off does imply a defect in the circuit board. But you have a variety of erratic things happening. You could have several bad parts, or you might be measuring or observing things in the wrong way.
 
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Old 02-12-13, 03:56 PM
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The resistance accross the terminals on the gas valve was infinite. I measured the voltage negative lead of dvom clipped to green wire where it grounds to frame and possitive lead to the terminal on the blue wire at the valve
 
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Old 02-13-13, 01:58 PM
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Your method of measuring resistance might give you an incorrect reading.


Presumably the gas valve has two electrical terminals.

Disconnect the wire to one of those terminals and connect one lead to each of the two terminals with the leads from the multimeter.

If the resistance is infinite, the gas valve is burned out and must be replaced.

I recommend against DIY replacement of the electrical valves on furnaces.
 
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