Puff sound at startup

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Old 04-04-13, 11:55 AM
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Puff sound at startup

Hey all-
I have a Weil-Mclain with a Beckett AFG. I believe I had some sludge move through the system after a low-filled tank was filled, caused the furnace to shut down due to the oil pump screen being completely blocked, so I replaced the oil filter, oil pump filter screen, nozzle and electrodes, which were set according to specs. I am now getting a "puff" sound and occasionally a very small amount of smoke/soot that will puff out around the flange gasket at the top. The furnace was cleaned this past fall and wasn't very dirty to begin with.
Any advice/things to check would be appreciated.

The oil pump is a Suntec 7116 built in 1998, which is when the whole system was installed. Does have a replaced Carlin 41000 ignitor and a Honeywell R4184 primary controller.

Thanks
 
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  #2  
Old 04-04-13, 12:59 PM
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You have delayed ignition. Things to check are the electrodes spacing and alignment. It could be dying ignition transformer or spark generator. Even a new nozzle could be defective. Another thing is the fuel pressure regulator may not be cutting off smoothly allowing poor atomization at start up or after dribble on shut down. It will not get better by itself and could get much worse.
 
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Old 04-05-13, 06:35 AM
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Thanks, I will change the nozzle again and I have ordered a new oil pump, I don't know how long they last but I figure 15 years is a good time to change it out.
 
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Old 04-06-13, 07:07 PM
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Before you install the new nozzle: Flush the nozzle tube with a good grease cutting solvent such as 2+2 or carburerator cleaner. After doing so, reattach the nozzle tube to the 3/16" pump discharge tube, direct the flow into a container, start the burner & let oil flow for 15-30 seconds. Now install your new nozzle & you should be good to go unless there are other problems.
 
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Old 04-07-13, 02:50 PM
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Thanks for checking in Grady. I did exactly that before I read your post so I'm glad i did it properly. However, last nite sometime the furnace tripped off again after it ran several times seemingly fine, so I think the transformer isn't up to par or the oil pump is on its way out. I have both of them new in transit and should be here tomorrow.
 
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Old 04-07-13, 06:22 PM
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When you pull the pump, be sure to check the plastic coupling between the motor & pump. Sometimes they wear & can slip.
 
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Old 04-08-13, 07:09 AM
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I put a new coupling on a few weeks ago when I started to have some issues and I've got another spare in stock in case it's messed up when i change the pump. The pump sounds like it has been making some noise lately. Any recommendation on pipe dope for the fittings on the new pump? The old one looks like it has some sort of plastic or rubber "sleeve" on the threads. I've got Blue Monster pipe dope and a couple other companies versions also. I have a gauge and fittings to set the pump pressure to 140 where the spec is. Thanks
 
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Old 04-08-13, 01:29 PM
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I like Permatex number two for use on fuel oil. It is a dark brown sticky paste and comes in a tube. Wear disposable rubber gloves when using it or you will be wearing it for at least a week. You only need a little and try not to get it in the first two threads. It never gets really hard so even years later the joints can be unthreaded.
 
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Old 04-08-13, 02:20 PM
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Thanks for the input. Any clue as to what that rubber/plastic type material would be on there now? I've never seen it before.
 
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Old 04-08-13, 02:50 PM
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Could be one of several different products. Most of them work to a greater or lesser degree and most of them are a bear to remove after a few day to a few years. You may need to toss the old fittings if you cannot clean the old sealant.
 
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Old 04-08-13, 06:55 PM
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Thanks guys! I'll let you know how it all turns out.
 
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Old 04-08-13, 07:44 PM
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I'm with Furd on the #2 Permatex. Great stuff but nasty if you get it on you. One thing which will take it off pretty well is alcohol. Get the gloves.
 
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Old 04-09-13, 06:33 PM
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I put a new Beckett electronic ignitor part 51771u on this evening and the furnace lit faster than I can remember it ever lighting. I tested the pump pressure and it was 140 so I think the ignitor did the trick. I would like to replace the primary controller just due to it being old. Model is R4184 D1027. What controller do you recommend the 8184? Thanks guys.
 
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Old 04-09-13, 10:29 PM
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40 series controls are line voltage and 80 series controls are low voltage, the two are not interchangeable.

Wait for confirmation from Grady but I think you might be able to use a 70 series controller. 70 series is electronic. Sorry, but I am not up on the newer Honeywell controls so I cannot give you a full model/serial number.
 
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Old 04-10-13, 05:24 AM
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Thank you for all the info you have provided!
 
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Old 04-11-13, 06:05 AM
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I checked Honeywells site and it looked like the 8184 was the replacement for the 4184? I'll have to do some more digging though.
 
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Old 04-11-13, 02:39 PM
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You can use either the 8184 or the 7284.
 
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Old 04-11-13, 04:57 PM
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What would you go with? Thanks
 
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Old 04-11-13, 08:42 PM
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I like the 7284 for it's versitility. If you choose to add a solenoid operated valve to the pump at a later date to give you the option of pre &/or post purge you can do so. Another thing I really like about it is the ability to shut off the ignition tranformer after flame is proven. This not only saves electricity but vastly increases the life of the electrodes & in theory increases the life of the ignition transformer. I installed it's predecessor, the 7184, on my own boiler & added the valve to the pump.
 
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Old 04-12-13, 11:30 AM
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Excellent info thank you very much. My system does currently have a solenoid valve between the pump and nozzle so it sounds like a good combo. Thank you all very much for the help!
 
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Old 04-12-13, 06:17 PM
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You're most welcome. If any other questions come to mind, please don't hesitate to ask & we'll do our best to help you out.
 
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