I have a York TG9S080B12MP11A. Last year, it would call for heat, try 3 times, and then blow cold air until I shut it down at the switch, constantly. The last 5 codes were usually "Ignition lockout due to retries", "Limit switch open" or "rolloutswitch open". It would alternate between these 3 codes, even when I reset the last 5 codes, these 3 would always come up in some order. Taking the door off helped a little, but not much. I replaced both rollout switches in March and that didn't fix it, and gave up until now, and I'll need it again soon.

Now, I go to start it and only the first two burners light. Call for heat, fan turns on, ignitor turns orange, first two burners light up cleanly and the last 2 don't light at all. Is this thing possessed? I gave it the nozzles a few whacks where they attach to the gas line, I also tried to clean the wings out with a utility knife, but it's useless trying to do it in such a cramped space. I'm thinking since the flame isn't jumping to burners 3 and 4, I need to clean the "wings" in the burner tubes so the flame will jump to all 4 burners, but at this point I'm completely at a loss for all these problems last year and now THIS this year. One HVAC guy came out in March and said replace the rollout switches so I did, I don't like paying someone to do something I can easily do myself, that's just crazy. Do I really need to take this thing apart?

Also, any ideas on what was happening last winter, once I get the 4 burner problem solved? What can I offer to the furnace gods as sacrifice?

Propane tanks are full, and my propane water heater works fine.

 

In order to clean the wings, you'll likely have to remove the manifold. Clean the wings with a blade type feeler gauge or a very thin putty knife. Be sure to blow out any rust before putting the burners back in. If you don't have an air compressor, canned air for cleaning a keyboard works pretty well. As long as the burners are out, remove the flame sensing rod & clean it with a scotch brite pad or very fine steel wool (I prefer the pad).
Has anyone checked gas pressure?

 

When the flame goes out after 5-seconds, and the furnace is mounted vertically in a downdraft configuration, the issue is most likely that the acrylic plastic condenser that was shipped with the new furnace has developed some fractures and is dripping condensate (water) onto the burner area, specifically onto the FLAME SENSE thermocouple, causing a rust film on the ceramic insulator. The latest replacement part for the condenser (S1-32816419000) is now made with a material like ABS that does not crack or fracture. Clean any rust from the ceramic body of the thermocouple with fine steel wool and reinstall. To remove the condenser, first shutoff then remove the gas line to make room to remove the blower. During re-install do not over-tighten the screws that mount the condenser or blower. A 1/4-inch socket with extension is the only tool needed to do this repair.

 

I have a York TG9S that will heat up when I manually fire up the gas with the switch next to the furnace. Once it reaches the desired temperature and shuts off, the heat will not restart when needed, only the blower will come on and blow cool air. When this happened we noticed a broken plastic condensate collector plate which we now have replaced. We also had the condensate drain pipe blown out to remove and possible blockage. The flame sensor was also cleaned. Could this possibly be a thermostat issue? When it does fail I see 7 red flashes.

 

Doesn't sound like a stat problem. Does the HSI glow?

 

It does when I restart it from the heater, but not when it's just blowing

 

The 7 flashes signifies a lockout condition. When you turn power off at the furnace and then back on you are just clearing the trouble and the code from the furnace. You aren't fixing anything. The code will only come back.

You should try the following to see what codes were stored before the lockout code.

 

How do I see your attached images?