Seeking advice with ThermoPride Furnace DIY or Call Tech...


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Old 10-11-13, 10:46 AM
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Seeking advice with ThermoPride Furnace DIY or Call Tech...

I currently have a older Thermo Prod Oil fired furnace model OH5-85, probly 12 years old, Trane XL 1200 condenser for my a/c probly about the same age.

Today we called horizon service to come out do a Heating tune up which is abt $300. During the check the tech attached a gauge to the oil pump and found out that once temperature was reached and pump stops, pressures drops below normal range to 65%, causing oil to to leak and there is sign of oil leaking inside burner from the tip of a that dispenses oil into the chamber. The other problem he found was that the combustion chamber was cracked. Due to this two thing he wasn't able to proceed with the tune up.

Now replacing our entire old unit with high efficiency heat / AC with heat pump would cost us abt 12-15k and replacing the 2 bad items would be $2400. I know our unit is old and is not as efficient but we really don't want to spend money unless is very necessary.

Is replacing a oil pump and combustion chamber something that can be done myself or is not recommended.. I am fairly good fixing things just never dealt with a heater.

Below there are pictures of the oil pump, oil filter and combustion chamber. Just need to know if they need to be replaced and if I do can I do them. is hard to tell if the combustion chamber is bad.

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I tried to remove this door to take a better look at the combustion chamber but i did not user any force wasnt sure if this was glued or sealed. Can i pull that off?? or i was going to get one of snake cameras to see inside...

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Old 10-11-13, 11:47 AM
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After watching this youtube video. How to change the nozzle and filters on your oil fired heater - YouTube I realized that the Oil filter was something I could do.

The other thing is that the "nozzle" is what was dripping oil when burner stops. Could it be that replacing the filter + nozzle fix my problem with the leak? I believe it have not been serviced for more than 3 years. How often is the oil filter and pump filter replaced????
 
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Old 10-12-13, 06:04 PM
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The nozzle, filter cartridge, & screen inside the pump cover should be replaced each year. Pumps last many years but when they do need replacing it's an easy task & available at most plumbing supply houses.
The chamber probably isn't nearly as bad as the Horizon guy wants you to believe. That big "crack" straight down the back/center is not a crack. It is a joint between the two halves of the chamber. You have what is probably the finest piece of oil fired equipment made in the last 40+ years.
 
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Old 10-13-13, 07:02 AM
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Thanks a lot!! that is exactly what i've been reading. I was just going to replace the nozzle, filter and screen... I was going to rent or buy one of those snake cameras to see inside the chamber to be sure..
 
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Old 10-13-13, 06:36 PM
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For a better look without having to rent or buy a camera, you can remove that upper plate (where the peep hole cover was). If you feel froggy, you can also remove the lower plate. An advantage to the camera is you can get a good look at the heat exchanger but I'd be willing to make a serious wager there's nothing wrong with it.
 
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Old 10-18-13, 03:10 PM
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Today I decided to run out and buy the oil filter, oil pump screen and nozzle. Had to get them from 3 different because they were out of stock.

In case someone have the same unit I got:

Oil Filter: Westwood No. F10-48 (looks very different from the one i had but the guy said it was the model I needed so I trusted him, fits fine.)
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Pump strainer: Suntec P193-3BAG Model A70
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Nozzle They can find the exact part if you bring old one.
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During installation process I was kinda nervous. Since it was my first time.
1- I tried turn off the oil flow but the valve was under the oil tank. When I was trying to either turning clock or counter clockwise the knob will come off. Knob looks like a big aluminum beer cap.
2 - Shut off emergency boiler switch.
3 - Started by targeting the nozzle, which I thought it was easy.
Removed the oil line that connects to the electrodes. I was surprised it was screwed on tight because the tech took it apart not too long ago. Removed the line and no oil was leaking. Replaced the nozzle and placed it back. Used 2 wrench and carefully removed the nozzle, avoided contact with the electrodes. (used instruction provided by this guy in Your Home Improvement Resource For the DIY'er With DIY Videos : AskmeDIY is really helpful)
4 - Oil filter - removed screw on top, drained the cup, clean it, put new filter, gaskets and put back.
5 - Oil pump strainer, removed 4 screws on the side of the pump, removed old strainer/gasket and put new one. Put everything back.
6 - Bleeding oil pump, made sure everything was properly connected and started the heater. (I bleed my car brakes so i assumed this should be much easier and it was) Once the furnace started it will shut off by itself. there wasn't oil coming out of the bleed valve. I went to the oil tank and turned the valve full open. Reset the furnace, comes one then shuts off again. I thought oil wasn't getting there. I shut electric power to the furnace, popped the oil filter open and cap was full of oil, so oil flow wasn't the problem. Started to get little worried. Dropped my head for a sec. sigh.. then i saw a little sticker:
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It had the measurements between the electrode and nozzle.
7. Took the electrodes back out. Went back to the askmediy.com site there was a link explaining about setting the electrodes. Guy had a nice triangle measuring tool. I used a plastic ruler instead and adjusted the electrodes according to the diagram. Put everything back and fired up the furnace.
8. This time it ran for much longer. Went back to bled the oil pump there wasn't much air, good oil flow. I guess I got things right. Let it run for a bit before shutting it down.

Saved myself $300 or maybe $2400. Technician wouldn't not do the $300 tune up unless I replaced the combustion chamber.


"Grady
For a better look without having to rent or buy a camera, you can remove that upper plate (where the peep hole cover was). If you feel froggy, you can also remove the lower plate. An advantage to the camera is you can get a good look at the heat exchanger but I'd be willing to make a serious wager there's nothing wrong with it."
You mean this plate?? is it sealed with something? when i tried to removed it was almost glued together I didn't try to exert too much force because i wasn't. I rather check with the experts before trying something like this.. I will double check again..

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Old 10-18-13, 04:30 PM
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You got to take the gray sheet metal off above it.That sits in the plate about 1/4 inch in a lip.Behind the gray sheet are the clean outs.That is the best warm air.
 
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Old 10-18-13, 04:44 PM
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You need to remove those (3) 3/8" hex head screws across the top of the upper plate. You may also have to "encourage" the plate to come off by tapping upward with a hammer & screwdriver on that lip where the upper plate overlaps the lower plate.
 
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Old 10-18-13, 09:10 PM
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blizzster, Grady right,maybe I was thinking of another model.To be honest I got the same as yours.Guess I should work on it more often,then again got oil only when ran out last few times,the shoe maker.
 
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Old 10-19-13, 04:28 PM
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Guyold, Ibelieve you are correct about removing the sheet metal panel to get to the cleanouts.
 
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Old 11-15-13, 07:58 AM
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Thanks guys, I haven't even check the chamber yet because it already started to get cold and the heater is running.

Now I am having new issues. There is a burnt oil smell that might be cause by faulty oil pump. I already ordered a new oil pump and started a new thread on this..

Hoping to get my next problem fixed.
 
 

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