[Carrier 58RAV050 Quit Running] HELP SeattlePioneer


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Old 10-25-13, 04:12 PM
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[Carrier 58RAV050 Quit Running] HELP Anyone? SeattlePioneer

My Carrier 58RAV050 quit running. I've read a number of your posts and already have gone through some checks. The furnace begins its startup normally enough. Blower fires up, inducer?(smaller visible flywheel) starts and spins at high rpms, also normal. A clicking occurs which SHOULD engage the HSI however this does not occur. It cycles to a 1-2 code(blower for 90 seconds) then a 3-4 code(flame prove error), tries 3 times to ignite unsuccessfully and eventually cycles to 1-4 lockout code. I have checked the Flame sensor and HSI and both are good. Flame sensor was clean for the most part(seemed pointless to check flame sensor as there is no flame) and HSI had some white oxidation on the front and backside however I tested it on my workbench and it's glowing properly. At this point I was told to look at the pressure switch. I believe it has a small rubber hose connected to the blower assembly. Any suggestions to what might be causing my issues? I just read a post by someone else concerning his pressure switch. You answered him and he chose a combative stance with you??? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am very confident in my DIY abilities but also know expertise entails steps and processes I may not understand as yet. Don't want to make any mistakes. Thanks Mike
 

Last edited by Claimer; 10-25-13 at 05:36 PM.
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Old 10-25-13, 06:26 PM
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It only shows 1-2 code due to me having to have the thermostat set to call for heat when I am in the furnace. When all panels are on and breaker is reset and thermostat is turned off light is solid on as it should be. Once I turn the thermostat on it tries to ignite and cycles to the 3-4 code for flame prove failure(3tries by furnace to ignite as it would normally) then it shuts down to 1-4 lockout code.
ANYONE?
 
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Old 10-25-13, 09:31 PM
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After the igniter comes on and glows for a while...... you should hear a click. The burner should light and the igniter should go out. If you hear the click and the igniter just goes off then there could be problem with the gas valve or control board.

If you have a voltmeter you could watch the voltage to the gas valve. If you don't get it then the board is most likely defective.

The link below has some info on your unit.

Carrier documents techlit pdf
 
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Old 10-25-13, 10:56 PM
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Apologies,my bad

I wasn't clear enough in my description. There is no glow from the HSI. Because there was no glow I pulled it and the flame sensor for inspection. Flame sensor is fine, HSI had some white oxidation on it leading me to believe IT was the culprit. After inspecting it, I wasn't able to find a crack in it anywhere. I put 120v to it on my workbench and it worked fine. So, the ignitor WORKS but isn't getting to that stage in the startup process. I was told to check my pressure switch next. Trying to figure out how I go about this. It's a downdraft furnace and I did pull the filters to change them out a couple days ago(while it was still warm around here) 2days ago the temp dropped outside and the furnace either started and then failed or just failed outright. Would the filters create enough of a fluctuation in the pressure switch for it to register as unsafe operation. From what I have read filters are more about removing dust and particulates and have little to do with function, unless they are dirty then they can cause improper burn of gas, among other problems
 
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Old 10-25-13, 11:16 PM
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The pressure switch is connected to the draft inducer blower. The filters have nothing to do with it.

Draft safeguard switch on page 4, figure 7 in the manual is what I believe you need to check.
 
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Old 10-26-13, 12:00 AM
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A code 34 and a proven HSI points to a faulty control board.
 
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Old 10-26-13, 12:10 AM
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Thanks for the help

Thanks for the link to the manual. That's my machine, it's the downdraft model. OK, since I posted last I tried a couple different combinations of startup. It's DEFINITELY getting gas, can hear and feel it as well as smell it when I put a finger in front of the valve. After no luck I went back to square 1 retroubleshooting the problem. I initiated the component test sequence by shorting test/twin to C on the controller and everything seems to operate properly EXCEPT my ignitor. So at this point I am thinking it is in fact the Ignitor has too much resistance or the harness or control board are shot.it seems odd to me that if in fact it's the control board that all the processes EXCEPT the ignitor work properly(am I wrong to think this?) can the board be functioning and lose one connection? What might cause the harness or one circuit on the board to fail. When I say it still SEEMS to be functioning I mean I can see and hear it go through each step(check)in the process of starting up including the CLICK that should trigger the ignitor to glow. A little maddening trying to put it all together to a finite conclusion. Sleepless and chilly North of Seattle!!!
 
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Old 10-26-13, 12:14 AM
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A partial board failure is the most common board failure.

The ignitor should be ~ 60 ohms.
 
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Old 10-26-13, 12:22 AM
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I'll test the harness and board tomorrow! Time to bust out the zero degree sleeping bags Lol Thanks, REALLY don't want it to be the board but.... Hope it's the harness. Still like to know the CAUSE of a board circuit failure. the board functions well enough to STILL OPERATE the rest of its duties including telling me it ISN'T working and where? To me that SEEMS functional. All that said I am not in any way disputing that it's the ignitor, ignitor harness or board. I was also told it could be the pressure switch though I don't know WHY. I believe he said if the pressure is incorrect it prevents ignition as a redundant safety fail.
 
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Old 10-26-13, 12:36 AM
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PJ or Houston

PJmax Forum Topic Moderator

The pressure switch is connected to the draft inducer blower. The filters have nothing to do with it.

Draft safeguard switch on page 4, figure 7 in the manual is what I believe you need to check.


How do I check it and could this be the cause of my issues? It has a GFI looking pop out switch between the connections. Should it be depressed or popped up as it looks popped up looks very much like the manual reset switches near the bottom on either side of the flame sensor and the HSI. They both appear to be Popped up as well. Don't want to effect unnecessary change.
 
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Old 10-26-13, 12:38 AM
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A pressure switch lockout is a different code.
 
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Old 10-26-13, 01:42 AM
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It certainly is.

Houston, thank you. It escaped me. Didn't even occur to me that it would have its own code. Was just told that it could cause ignition to fail. So, then it's almost certainly between the ignitor the harness and the board. When I bench tested the ignitor it did glow although I didn't time it I think it was plenty fast enough(in the 17sec range) I didn't test it for resistance and read that a resistance of 90 ohms or higher won't ignite and will go to lockout code 3-4? The ignitor is definitely whitish from oxidation. The harness should be easy enough to check out. If it is in fact a dead board(most likely) what steps do I need to take to replace it?
 
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Old 10-26-13, 02:13 AM
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Houston and PJ you have both been great! OK so if the board has a bad ignitor circuit, is it garbage or can the circuit be repaired?
 
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Old 10-26-13, 06:52 AM
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1992 and some 1993 models had an edge pin connector on the circuit board that drew return air through the harness causing corrosion build up on on the contacts between the board and harness.

The first 2 digits of the furnace serial number indicate week and the next 2 digits indicate year of manufacture.

I wouldn't consider soldering relays on the circuit board. If the board has failed I would order a replacement kit. I avoid ICM replacement boards.
 
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Old 11-02-13, 01:46 AM
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Fixed!

I got my new control board and installed it tonight. Works like a charm. Thanks to Houston and PJMax for the expertise.
 
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Old 11-02-13, 01:03 PM
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Thanks for letting us know you got it working.
Your input helps us to help others with similar problems.
 
 

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