Trane YCC042 leaving us in the cold!!!


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Old 11-03-13, 11:04 AM
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Trane YCC042 leaving us in the cold!!!

Hello, I have a Trane YCC042 that is not properly heating. I've had 3 service calls (2 different companies) and no one has been able to do more than temporarily fix it for a day. I was hoping that someone with more experience might be able to help.

Yes, we've replaced the filters, the blower is working correctly, and they replaced the high temp do-hickey, and cleaned all of the parts.

Here are two symptoms:
1) When the heat is turned on, the ignitor fires and the flames come on briefly for a couple of seconds, then shut off. If the heat is left on, it will continue to cycle every few minutes, but with the same results.

The latest repair technician told us to leave the front panel on with an inch gap because there wasn't enough oxygen for the flames. We did that and it leads to problem number ....

2) The flames come on, the blower starts after a minute or two, and then it blows barely luke-warm air for about 10 minutes, then shuts off.

Please help or we will be little ice cubes found in our house in a couple of months....
 
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Old 11-03-13, 11:39 AM
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This is an outdoor packaged unit ?
Two different service companies ?

Problem 1 sounds like a flame sensor issue.

The door should not need to be left open and should have no effect on the burner unless something that should be open for outside air is plugged or covered.
The second problem sounds like an issue with airflow since the burner runs for a while and then shuts off. It almost sounds like the burner is plugged and needs to be taken out and cleaned.

Is the air coming in the house just warm or does the airflow seem to be greatly reduced ?
 
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Old 11-03-13, 01:02 PM
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Here is a link to some info that may be of benefit to you:

http://www.trane.com/webcache/un/roo...l_11012003.pdf

Have you verified the air inlet and flue as shown at the bottom of page 14 are both clear of any obstructions or restrictions? These must both be clear for the unit to get proper air flow. Are there any LED lights as shown in the troubleshooting section, page 19, of the manual?
 

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Old 11-03-13, 07:29 PM
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It is a dual A/C, heater outdoor unit. I thought the flame sensor issue also, but the last repair tech said that they noticed a dramatic difference when the door was on vs. off. For whatever reason, the furnace doesn't cycle on/off...on/off when the door is cracked open.

When the burner is on, the air coming into the house is not greatly reduced, but is also not warm at all.

Would I be able to take out the burner tubes myself and clean them? Or does that require cutting and welding?
 
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Old 11-03-13, 07:33 PM
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Thanks for the link and suggestions. I'll definately check it out the next day that I'm off of work!
 
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Old 11-08-13, 08:56 AM
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Update (its now my day off). Sometimes, the unit cycles on and off. Then rarely, like this morning, I set the thermostat to 85, and the unit ran, but only blowing luke-warm air, but enough to raise the indoor temperature from 60 to 65 degrees.

I took the housing off and checked the flue and air intake valve. Both are completely clear. Notably, the flue blows out very hot air when the flames cycle on. The blower seems to be going at full strength and the air coming out of the vent seems strong (but not very warm). I am unsure of taking the screws off to the burners since I don't have high temp caulk and I don't want to totally ruin the unit. Could the problem be a flame rod that needs cleaned/replaced? I don't even know if this unit uses a flame rod.

Last year the technician cleaned the burners with a steel brush. He said that they were well rusted and the unit would probably have to be replaced in another year. Well, I guess what he said was true. Can I buy "just" the burner unit and replace it? I don't know if it is even available for this model....

Unfortunately, we are renting and we feel sorry for the landlord who is both an acquaintance, a widow, and doesn't have much money. She has the house on the market so that she can get out of debt, but so far, no one is interested. She has already paid for 3 visits to try to fix this furnace within a year's time.
 
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Old 11-08-13, 11:15 AM
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By all means try cleaning the flame detector. Here is a photo of a commonly used flame detector in Trane furnaces. To clean it, just remove it and use fine steel wool to clean the invisible oxidation off the rod. It is worth a try and is simple and costs nothing. Were you able to observe any error codes as I suggested in a previous post?
 
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Old 11-10-13, 09:48 AM
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Weekend update... I finally got tired of waking up to 50 degree weather inside the house. So, I took a shot of manliness, grabbed my chainsaw, and....

I finally took off the case and looked at the burner unit. The fire rod DID need to be cleaned which I did with steel wool. But more importantly, I noticed that the burners were not lined up with the gas ejectors. I don't know how any of the technicians missed this... So, I lined them back up and secured them, put the unit back together, and guess what? The furnace started up on the first try.

It is still blowing luke-warm air, but at least it isn't short cycling anymore. I'm going to go and check to make sure ALL of the burners are working and go from there.
 
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Old 11-10-13, 10:41 AM
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It's important that the burners be lined up properly with the orifices.
Were the screws not installed ? It's pretty hard to mis-align if the screws were in place.

The flame sensor rod must be IN the flame so if the burner was that far out of alignment.... that may have contributed to problem.
 
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Old 11-10-13, 10:45 AM
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The screws were installed, but for some reason there was enough space between the orifice and the burner that the weight of the burner dropped it below the orifice. I took it apart and put it together and now there is no way it could slip out again without taking out the screws.

Thanks to everyone who contributed. Maybe they won't have to thaw me out come spring!
 
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Old 11-10-13, 10:57 AM
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Glad you found the problem. Stop back if you need further help.
 
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Old 11-10-13, 11:28 AM
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Could the luke-warm air be a result of and improper blower speed setting? What speed for heat would you all recommend?
 
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Old 11-10-13, 12:30 PM
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The speed of the blower is based on heat rise temperature. The return air temperature is measured just before the furnace and the air leaving the furnace is measured. The difference is the heat rise which is listed on the unit's service decal.

Usually if the heated air is cool.....it would mean the blower was running too fast.
 
 

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