Rheem Classic 90+ wont light. Goes through prepurge, but ignitor does not glow
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Rheem Classic 90+ wont light. Goes through prepurge, but ignitor does not glow
Rheem Classic 90+ (with Powervent). Circa 1997
Checked the air pressure switches. Normally open. They click when I remove hoses.
Ignitor never glows. Measures 120 Ohms. Visually looks fine. Ignitor is relatively new - (about 3 years old)
Functions if I provide pilot flame (using extended utility/barbeque lighter)
Checked the air pressure switches. Normally open. They click when I remove hoses.
Ignitor never glows. Measures 120 Ohms. Visually looks fine. Ignitor is relatively new - (about 3 years old)
Functions if I provide pilot flame (using extended utility/barbeque lighter)
#2
Did you check for voltage on the igniter ?
You should see 24vac across the pressure switch and it should go to 0v when inducer starts.
You should see 24vac across the pressure switch and it should go to 0v when inducer starts.
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Voltage on the igniter is 4.7V AC. I found someone saying it should be 115V AC. Is that correct?
Should it be 24v -> 0v on both pressure switches? There is a pressure switch going to the Powervent fan.
Actual Model is a RGRA-09EZAJS
IFC Control Board: 1012-920 62-24084-01 9639H
Should it be 24v -> 0v on both pressure switches? There is a pressure switch going to the Powervent fan.
Actual Model is a RGRA-09EZAJS
IFC Control Board: 1012-920 62-24084-01 9639H
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I just ran it through the cycle again.
24 volts AC at the pressure switch that goes to 0 after induction
14 volts AC at the pressure switch for the powervent fan that goes to 0 after induction
I checked the fuse to the transformer at that has continuity.
I have two units, so I may swap IFC boards to see if that fixes things.
24 volts AC at the pressure switch that goes to 0 after induction
14 volts AC at the pressure switch for the powervent fan that goes to 0 after induction
I checked the fuse to the transformer at that has continuity.
I have two units, so I may swap IFC boards to see if that fixes things.
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I swapped out that IFC control board and that fixed the problem
Are there any components that commonly fail on the control board that I could replace (ie. capacitor/resistor) or do I need to replace the unit?
Are there any components that commonly fail on the control board that I could replace (ie. capacitor/resistor) or do I need to replace the unit?
#6
Common failure items on those boards are relays as they are mechanical and the contacts are prone to arcing.
However, none of those parts are available from the HVAC companies as those control modules are not considered a user serviceable item.
However, none of those parts are available from the HVAC companies as those control modules are not considered a user serviceable item.