Furnace wont fire and the blower just runs!

Reply

  #1  
Old 12-19-13, 12:37 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: usa
Posts: 8
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Furnace wont fire and the blower just runs!

Hi I'm Greg, I'm new to here so be nice lol. I have a carrier Furnace that as of yesterday worked great and now today when I try to start it it just turns the blower fan on when you call for heat, nothing else happens.

The model is 58gs075-ea

I would appreciate any and all help on how I should go about fixing this. Thank you.
 
  #2  
Old 12-19-13, 12:43 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 60,956
Received 1,353 Votes on 1,251 Posts
Welcome to the forums.

Are you referring to the draft inducer blower on the front of the furnace or the main air blower in the bottom ?
 
  #3  
Old 12-19-13, 12:50 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: usa
Posts: 8
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
The main blower on the bottom. Only way to shut it off is to kill the power to the furnace or pul the lower cover off and the switch down there shuts it off.
 
  #4  
Old 12-19-13, 03:17 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: usa
Posts: 8
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Really no one can help? Surely someone has to have an idea?
 
  #5  
Old 12-19-13, 06:03 PM
F
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Wet side of Washington state.
Posts: 18,495
Received 36 Votes on 28 Posts
I have some ideas but you might find them borderline insulting. First thing is to look at the thermostat and make sure the fan Auto-On switch is in the Auto position. Second is to make sure the System switch is in the Heat position. If you have little kids around they could have changed these switches. Some thermostats do not have obvious switches but need to go into first level programming to set these switches.

If all of that is correct then the next thing to do is to first turn off the power to the system and then remove the thermostat from the wall. Depending on the thermostat this could be as easy as depressing an area on the top, side or bottom of the thermostat housing and then lift the unit from the sub-base which is fastened to the wall or it might entail removing one or more screws. If the thermostat is of the type that is removable from a sub-base then after removal re-power the system and see if it is still reacting the same. If it does, then there is nothing wrong with the thermostat proper but there could be a problem with the wiring from the thermostat base to the furnace.

Post back after these tests.
 
  #6  
Old 12-19-13, 06:10 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: usa
Posts: 8
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Checked all of that, wires are in good shape, set to auto, set to heat, removed and installed a new one aswell still doing the same thing, tried to even bypass the thermostat.
 
  #7  
Old 12-19-13, 06:25 PM
F
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Wet side of Washington state.
Posts: 18,495
Received 36 Votes on 28 Posts
Disconnect the thermostat wiring at the furnace itself and try. If it still is not right then the logic board in the furnace is the most likely problem. If it does stop when you disconnect the thermostat wiring then the wiring itself is the problem. Depending on how bad the wiring (if it is the problem) it may be possible to get you going on an emergency basis.
 
  #8  
Old 12-19-13, 07:23 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 60,956
Received 1,353 Votes on 1,251 Posts
This is one of the Carrier systems where if a limit is open the fan runs. The electronic control board turns the fan relay on which turns the blower off. A little confusing. I've posted the link to the manual below. Page 9 explains the system. A blown fuse on the control board will cause this problem as well as failure of the 24vac transformer. I don't see a fuse listed in the info but that still leaves a 24vac transformer that may have failed.

You are going to need a VOM (volt ohmmeter) to do some testing.

Carrier groups public documents techlit 58gs.pdf
 
  #9  
Old 12-19-13, 07:44 PM
F
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Wet side of Washington state.
Posts: 18,495
Received 36 Votes on 28 Posts
Thanks, PJ................................................................
 
  #10  
Old 12-19-13, 08:36 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: usa
Posts: 8
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Does that manual also tell me what to test for limit switchs etc? Any idea what it might be? The 5 amp fuse on the board is good.
 
  #11  
Old 12-19-13, 11:03 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 60,956
Received 1,353 Votes on 1,251 Posts
Sorry to leave you hanging..... duty called.

The manual is 18 pages. On pages 17 and18 is step by step testing instructions.
Start with the 24vac transformer first.

24vac should be measure on terminals R and C.
If not, that would be a good indication of a defective transformer.
 
  #12  
Old 12-20-13, 05:39 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: usa
Posts: 8
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
So I measured the voltage between terminal "C" and "R" and had about 14.1V I that measuered the voltage between "C" and "W" and only had .9V and that was when heat was in demand. I assume the transformer is bad?
 
  #13  
Old 12-20-13, 07:40 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 60,956
Received 1,353 Votes on 1,251 Posts
It certainly appears that the transformer is bad but to make a final check. In the upper right corner of the board you should see SEC-1 and SEC-2. There should be a red and blue wire coming from the transformer and connecting there. Pull those two wires off and measure the voltage directly from the transformer. If it's still low then the transformer is defective.

If the transformer measure normal (24-27vac) then you have a short.... possibly in the control board.
 
  #14  
Old 12-20-13, 07:53 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: usa
Posts: 8
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
So if I do that and still have low voltage you think the transformer is the fault? That would cause the blower fan to run on high? Also if the transformer is bad is there something causing it or is it due to being old? Would a limiter switch cause this? Like I said I tested voltage between "c" and "r" and it was very low.

Here is everything I did Terminal "w" and "c" .9v, terminal "r" and "c" 14.2V, lim1 and "c" 27.2v, lim2 and"c" 14.3v, terminal "gh" and "c" 14.1v and thats where i ran out of ideas lol. Getting cold in here lol.
 
  #15  
Old 12-20-13, 08:33 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 60,956
Received 1,353 Votes on 1,251 Posts
So if I do that and still have low voltage you think the transformer is the fault?
Would you like me to make a guess ?

I left you a link for the manual. Did you read it ?

Go to page 16 and read this section. It gives you actual step by step things to check.
Heating Mode:
Continuous low speed blower operation with no call for heat - No main burner ignition with call for heat.


Since you've gotten a measurement of 27vac the transformer may be ok and a limit may be faulty. I ALWAYS check the voltage of the transformer first. Disconnect the leads where I told you above. Then put the leads back on the two terminals and check it at those terminals. Is it the same ? If yes...... follow the tree in the manual.
 
  #16  
Old 12-21-13, 12:05 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: usa
Posts: 8
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
did what you said, got the 24 or so volts from both leads from the transformer, I moved to testing the limit switches, both were closed, found that the fuseable link on the high limit was rusty and not contacting decent, sanded it clean for now and it fired right up. Can I replace that with an inline replaceble fuse or do I need to get the oem? Just thinking for ease of future repair.
 
  #17  
Old 12-21-13, 12:30 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 60,956
Received 1,353 Votes on 1,251 Posts
That link is not just a fuse. It's a combination over current and over temperature protection device.

The Carrier part number is 307566-751. You can search that part number and find many places carrying it.



Pete Name:  xmas_attach-22947.gif
Views: 219
Size:  332 Bytes
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: