York Diamond 80 Gas Furnace - New Control Board & Old Control Board Wiring

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Old 01-18-14, 10:42 AM
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York Diamond 80 Gas Furnace - New Control Board & Old Control Board Wiring

The control board on my York Diamond 80 gas furnace failed, so I ordered a new one (was a hassle to find a place that sold parts to non-licensed HVAC techs). The specific model number is P3HUC20N08001B.

When I got the new control board, it was obviously significantly different in layout from the old board. So I contacted the parts place. After a few emails back and forth, the person told me she confirmed directly with York that the new board was the correct part form my model number.

The problem is that some of the wires and connectors are pretty easy to connect, such as the 4-pin and 12-pin Molex connectors (hard to mess those up). Also the low voltage screw terminal lettering matchers between the two boards.

The hard part is determining the proper wiring for the tabbed connectors between the old and new board. This is because the old board has 3 more terminals than the new board. Also, the old board's tabbed connectors are labeled with alphanumeric codes that all start with the letter 'E' like E13 and E19. The new board's tabbed connectors are labeled with short letter descriptions of the function of the connector, like HEAT and HI COOL. I have no clue how to match wiring between these two different descriptions for each tabbed connector.

What would have helped is if the label on the old plastic housing for the original control board had not faded away.

Can anyone help me match the proper wiring? Pictures attached. Thanks!
 
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Old 01-18-14, 09:46 PM
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Look at your wiring schematic and match them up. Did the manufacturer give you the model number for the old board? What is the model number of the new control board, what boards is it a direct replacement for?
 
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Old 01-19-14, 07:45 PM
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I did not get a part # for the old board. The new part # is S1-33103010000.

The sheet that came with it says it is a replacement for quite a few part numbers, most of which start with "S1-0310" (10 different parts numbers that start with those characters). The remaining part numbers this replaces are:

265901
265902
539617

Odds are, one of these 3 part numbers above are for the old control board.

There is a schematic with the new control board, but it is for "typical system wiring." I have already checked and it does not match up with my system.

Thanks!
 
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Old 01-19-14, 08:26 PM
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The problem here is that we cannot read the connections off the old board as well as it's pretty hard to read the connections on the new board.

For us to help you..... you're going to have to post large sized pictures of the boards on a pic hosting site like imgur or photobucket and then post the url's here.
 
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Old 01-20-14, 03:36 PM
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First, thanks for helping.

I stupidly realized that there is an existing schematic on a metal panel on the furnace. This schematic lists the short name designations for each connector tab on the original/old control board

I thought I was good to go until I started accounting for the wires using the existing schematic (on the York furnace) and the new control board.

Issue (1): The furnace schematic shows TWO of the XFMR connector tabs and wires. The new board has only one connector tab labeled XFMR. This leaves one wire I don't know where to connect.

Issue (2): The furnace schematic has TWO connector tabs (an associated wires) labeled LINE. All I can find on the new board in one connector labeled L1, which I assume is the same as LINE. This leaves a second wire that I don't know where to connect.

Issue (3): The furnace schematic shows a connector tab labeled CIR. There is no such connector tab on the new control board. This is a third wire I don't know where to connect.

I have attached two pictures that show the differences. All I can assume is that I am supposed to connect some of the wires to one or more of the connector tabs labeled NEUTRAL (4 of them in a row), but that does not make sense.

The tech where I bought the new board swears this is the replacement for my model of York furnace, but it sure doesn't look like it to me.

Check the pictures and let me know what you think.

Thanks so much!
 
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Old 01-21-14, 02:08 PM
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Another thought:

Is it possible for the XFMR connector that I connect BOTH of the existing XFMR wires that used to attach to two different tabs to the single XFMR tab?

Running out of time here. Super cold air mass coming in.
 
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Old 01-22-14, 11:30 AM
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There MUST be two transformer connections. You can't combine the two wires from the transformer.

It could possibly be the C and xfmr terminals.
 
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Old 01-22-14, 02:44 PM
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LOL! I don't know what I was thinking about connecting both transformer wires to the same spot!

I am beginning to think that the cluster of connectors labeled as "NEUTRAL" are the other part of the equation.

For example, I bet the main transformer wire connects to XFMR, and the neutral (white) wire connects to one of the NEUTRAL connectors. The same probably holds true for the second LINE wire.
 
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Old 01-24-14, 06:03 AM
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Resolved!

After much studying of the underside of the new circuit board and the variations in connections between the old and new board, I found the answer.

All of the connector tabs labeled as NEUTRALS on the new board were the "missing" connection points. One of the transformer (XFMR) tabs was a "neutral" wire - figured that out from the schematic on the furnace panel. I used this information to determine that the second LINE wire should also be attached to one of the NEUTRAL connector tabs.

Since the CIR connector tab name was missing on the new board, I looked on the underside of the old board and saw that the XFMR, LINE, and CIR connector tabs were all joined by a common circuit. This verified that all of these were NEUTRAL conenctor tabs.

The hardest part came trying to use the new metal support plate on the furnace. None of the screw holes matched to the existing furnace screw holes. I simply used a drill to make my own screw holes in the old support panel (since the transformer was already attached to the top of it).

In the end, all of the wires that were connected to the NEUTRAL tabs were WHITE in color!

I connected all the wires based upon my well-informed guess, flipped the switch, and it worked!

My wife was amazed and impressed that I figured it out. Plus we saved several hundred dollars in the process!

After I got it working yesterday early evening, we hit a record low of 4 degrees! Talk about good timing!
 
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Old 04-15-14, 10:01 PM
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new -old control board

I have the same board in my york diamond 80.. I'm sure you've figured it all out by now, but if you need a picture of one not faded I can help.

I start another question... my ignighter/pilot is not receiving power to start the flame. My diagnostic indicator light flashes nothing, only turns on briefly when the furnace turns on. Is it likely I need a new board? And if so is it worth the trouble you've gone through trying to figure it out ?
 
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Old 04-22-14, 04:37 PM
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Been there ~ Done That...however : ?

Glad to find You resolved the wiring satisfactorily enough to run the Unit, however, I wonder just how-well You've now come to find it's working after some period of time... : ?

I replaced the "Board" on My Propane Fired '95 SEER 10 4-Ton R-22 HVAC Diamond 80 back in '08, but only after having diagnosed & replaced a seized Blower Motor and blown Starting-Capacitor...THEN It fired-up and seemed to work just fine...also just in-time for an advancing cold front : )

However, I soon noticed that whenever in "HEAT" mode -- "Auto" or otherwise, and especially THE COLDER IT IS -- I'll find the unit OFF and the House COLD @ <58 or whatever ~ despite the T-stat setting of >66 or whatever -- and the only way I've found to get it fired-up is to manually drop the T-State Control-Temp threshold-setting down untill it's 1 degree BELOW whatever is shown room-ambiant on My Thermostat-Control "Display" at that time, then raising It 1 degree ABOVE room-ambiant...

THEN I'll hear the "Click" of the Air Handler starting-up ("Draft Blower" ?) and most-of-the-time it'll only raise the Room temp 1~2 degrees and SHUT DOWN...

Despite having set it several degrees higher than whatever that COLD "Room Ambiant" WAS...

And I'll have to do that several times over an hour until the House finally warms-up and finally (sorta) stays where the TEMP is SET : ?

Now You'd THINK that would've saved some "Gas" for runnin' the house-cold ~ and I DID wonder if It doing-so was some manner of "Economy Mode"... : ?

I'd be interested to know how YOUR "Retro-Fit Control Board" worked out, though here soon ~ I may not have to deal with that problem anymore for the fact Winter is (Finally!) over AND My (YORK Outside Unit) Compressor seized-up just as last Summer ended...

Now I'm considering replacing the entire system because I WAS TOLD "...and It could be retro-fitted to R-410..." whenever this should eventually happen, but NOW : ?

No-one wants to "Flush" that "R22/R410 compatable SEER 13 Evaporator Coil" I replaced back in July '09...much-less "Warranty" the system whatsoever regardless of replacing the Compressor with a "Dry-Shipped" R-22 OR R-410 Outside Unit!

(Uh-huh, U-guessed It ~ That "HVAC Guy" isn't answering His phone anymore... ; )

WTF ~ the efficientcy of the New & Improved Systems will save a LOT of $$$...

IF I can just ever figure which one to get... : ?

Ciao ~ M.J.
 
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Old 04-22-14, 05:38 PM
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You had a defective motor and starting capacitor..... so why did you change the board ?
There is a diagnostic light on it that should have guided you in troubleshooting. At this point is sounds like you have a dirty flame sensor but that will be confirmed by the LED flashes.
 
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