No gas?


  #1  
Old 01-24-14, 08:20 PM
D
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No gas?

1. In which area you live and ambient temperatures you usually experience.
- Mid-atlantic coastal, temperature varies
2. House style and construction details.
- Condominum
3. Make, model and age of equipment related to the problem.
- York Diamond 80 (17 years)
4. Fuel type.
- Natural Gas
7. Thermostat type.
- Nest

Hello,
I have a York Diamond 80 gas furnace that won't ignite. This is how far the system gets:
  • Thermostat calls for heat.
  • Inducer motor comes on.
  • Pressure switch confirms chimney is clear.
  • HSI begins to glow. (gets 120v)
  • Gas valve clicks. (gets 24v for a few seconds)
  • [no ignition]
  • HSI stops glowing.
  • Inducer motor continues to run.
  • Rinse and repeat until the system goes into lockout. (single flash)
  • Blower motor turns on and blows cold air.

I've checked:
  • Roll out switches.
  • Voltages at HSI and gas valve.
  • Pressure switch.
  • All wires for fraying and their connections.
  • Put my finger near the gas nozzle when the valve should be open to feel if gas is coming out; didn't feel or smell anything, gas meter doesn't appear to move.
The last bullet tells me that there is probably something wrong with the valve. I am 99% sure gas is getting to the valve, just not passing through it to the burners. Is it possible the valve is getting the appropriate voltage but not opening?

Is there anything else I should check?

Thanks!

Attachment 25377
Attachment 25378
 

Last edited by DesignGoggles; 01-24-14 at 09:24 PM. Reason: Added photos
  #2  
Old 01-24-14, 08:34 PM
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Well its good that you know how to check these things. Any safeties tripped would cause the unit to not even attempt to light, so eliminate that right off the bat. You confirmed that you are getting 24v to your gas valve, it's just not lighting so your good on testing so far. If you have a couple small wrenches or channel locks you can break a unit nut and see if you have gas at the unit. Doubt you have a main gas issue. More than likely you're on the right track with the gas valve.
 
  #3  
Old 01-24-14, 09:19 PM
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@RDSTEAM I just loosened the unit nut closest to the valve and heard/smelled gas. This nut is just before a 90 elbow and a straight 3" pipe which goes into the valve. (Pictures are now attached to this post.)
 
  #4  
Old 01-24-14, 10:05 PM
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The gas valve is a White-Rodgers 36E52 204. On the top of the valve is a large copper-colored screw which I assume regulates the amount of gas flow? Would unscrewing this allow more gas to pass through the valve? I could always screw it back in to where it currently is if it doesn't help.

Should I unscrew this a little and see if it makes a difference?
 
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Old 01-25-14, 07:43 AM
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UPDATE: I tried turning the (what appeared to be) a screw on the valve and it wouldn't budge.

Also,
I noticed there is a switch on the valve (visible in attachment 25377 to the left of the yellow wire. As power was being supplied to the valve I flipped this a few times: off, on............ off, on............. off, on, off, on, off, on.................. off, on... [IGNITION!] woohoo!

Is it possible to just replace just the switch box on top of the valve or should I just replace the entire gas valve unit?

tl;dr: Flipped the power switch on the valve a few times and gas started flowing and ignite. I assume I have a faulty gas valve?

Thanks in advance!
 

Last edited by DesignGoggles; 01-25-14 at 07:45 AM. Reason: clarity
  #6  
Old 02-02-14, 09:07 AM
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Never heard of disassembling any portion of the gas valve, little too risky. Just replace gas valve. If you had a manometer, that would be ideal before you go replacing parts, even though it seems like you might be on the right track.
 
  #7  
Old 02-02-14, 09:31 AM
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It looks like you added pics and then deleted them. None of your pictures are there.

As far as I know that switch is not replaceable as a separate item.

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