NO Heat for over a month please help!!!
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NO Heat for over a month please help!!!
hey guys and gals im in need for some serious help i had a service provider come and replace both heat exchangers in my carrier 58mvc080-14 and ive had issues since i did some troubleshooting on my own the transformer is supplying 27v to the electrical board and i am only getting 14v from my com 24v to R on my electrical board which by the book tells you to replace the board i ordered a new one and swapped the board out it worked great for about 5hrs then bam no heat again same symptom yellow led on all the time no codes will not respont to call for heat please help its been over a month
#2
That's an odd problem; are the traces on the new board by any chance corroded?
Is it possible that acidic condensate is leaking into the electrical compartment?
Have you contacted whoever changed the heat exchanger?
Is it possible that acidic condensate is leaking into the electrical compartment?
Have you contacted whoever changed the heat exchanger?
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my furnace is mounted horz so a leaking heat exchanger or hose wouldnt be an issue im starting to believe that the service provider is incompetent and hasnt done proper troubleshooting i pulled the old fault codes out of the board and got a code 41 which says the blower motor isnt spinning fast enough in system check mode which i believe will "lock" the board out after 3 tries which is why im not getting call for heat and the board isnt showing any fault codes so far i have had the flame rollout switch replaced, both prim and sec heat exch., a new board, and the service provider wants me to put all new duct work throughout the entire house and replace the 2" exhaust with 4" im going to look into getting a new blower motor what do you think
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And is there a way to clear the fault codes out of the new board or will powering it down and restarting it work i pulled the fault codes until i got code 11 but they wont leave for good am i missing a step
#5
Powering down the furnace for a minute or so should clear the fault codes.
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If there's an issue with the blower, it's probably the motor's controller (yours is variable speed correct?), not the motor itself.
2" exhaust is probably fine if the furnace ran for years that way (ditto for the ductwork); exhaust pipe limitations should be speced out in the install manual.
At the end of the day, I think you need to find a competent contractor to troubleshoot it. Air Conditioners, Heating, and Refrigeration Solutions from Carrier
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nd the service provider wants me to put all new duct work throughout the entire house and replace the 2" exhaust with 4" im going to look into getting a new blower motor what do you think
2" exhaust is probably fine if the furnace ran for years that way (ditto for the ductwork); exhaust pipe limitations should be speced out in the install manual.
At the end of the day, I think you need to find a competent contractor to troubleshoot it. Air Conditioners, Heating, and Refrigeration Solutions from Carrier
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Yes it is variable speed and i would agree its most likely the control but given my furnace is still under warrenty they should be replacing the motor and controller as a unit for free
and yes powering the furnace down and restarting it will clear current fault codes but im not sure if thats how you clear historical fault codes


#7
^I always thought that historical fault codes get cleared just by cutting the power, but the infinity units might be different. Everything you need to know about that should be in the service manual -> 58MVC literature
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So I finally got my new part in and I could only get either a new motor or a new blower control board under warranty so I went with the control board. With the new blower control I'm still not getting any response I ran a system check with dip switch #6 on and everything kicked on and I got code 11 (end of fault code) with no other faults any ideas where I should go with this I called carrier costumer service and it was like talking to a wall

#9
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"i am only getting 14v from my com 24v to R"
Can you test the leads from the actual transformer? I would be curious if you are getting 24V from that. My guess is there are test points on the board also that should be 24V too.
Can you test the leads from the actual transformer? I would be curious if you are getting 24V from that. My guess is there are test points on the board also that should be 24V too.