Honeywell thermostat display turns off after 4 minutes

Reply

  #1  
Old 02-14-14, 09:50 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 58
Honeywell thermostat display turns off after 4 minutes

Hello there, how are you doing? I hope all is well. I have a question? I am new to this and I am doing some research. I bought a new Honeywell Wifi thermostat and I installed everything. The heat turns on normally like it did with the old thermostat, but the thermostat display turns off after approximately 4 minutes and comes back after 53 seconds. It's like a pattern or something. Could it be the thermostat is defective or maybe something is wrong with my furnace board? When I connect my older thermostat everything works fine. So I don't know? It doesn't make sense to me.
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 02-14-14, 09:54 PM
lawrosa's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Galivants Ferry SC USA
Posts: 17,726
Likes Received: 2
Hello and welcome..

What is the model of the t stat?

I know there is a c wire issue with them to get power to it... I would assume you wired it correctly?
 
  #3  
Old 02-14-14, 09:56 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 58
I must be honest, that I hooked up the thermostat without the C wire and it started tweaking. It kept turning off and on constantly. Then I found the C wire and connected it to something called the "24 V HUM" that didn't work either. Then, I finally found the C common on my furnace board. It started working fine. However, the display would turn off after approx 4 minutes. Now, funny thing is when I turn the system off from the thermostat. The display stays on and it doesn't turn off at all. So I don't think I messed up the thermostat. I think there maybe something wrong with the wiring. Or maybe I haven't connect it to to the right C wire? I mean my electrician friend verified and found my C wire. He brought his tester and said this is your C wire. So I don't know? Should I return my thermostat and exchange it for the same one and see maybe I messed up the thermostat or should I do something else with the furnace board or clean something or put something else? I don't know? I appreciate your help. Thanks in advanced.
 
  #4  
Old 02-14-14, 09:59 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 58
Hey lawrosa, it's a Honeywell Model # RTH6580WF
 
  #5  
Old 02-14-14, 10:13 PM
lawrosa's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Galivants Ferry SC USA
Posts: 17,726
Likes Received: 2
Well take a pic of the furnace board and we can tell you...Thats the only way unless you trust your friend....

Its late... Others will be on tomorrow to give you suggestions...
 
  #6  
Old 02-14-14, 10:20 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 58
Ok, well it's late here too. And I connected my other thermostat back. Should I connect my wifi again, or should I just take a picture of where I connected the C in my board?
 
  #7  
Old 02-14-14, 11:53 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 50,954
Likes Received: 155
That thermostat definitely needs a C connection as it's WiFi enabled and needs power to transmit to the network.

You can take a picture of your control board or post the make and model of your furnace/air handler.
 
  #8  
Old 02-15-14, 04:55 AM
Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 46
Some equipment / boards will break "R" when a limit opens. A plug in relay must be added. "R" must be powered to the stat all of the time.
Sorry I cant do diagrams or explain things well in type.
 
  #9  
Old 02-15-14, 10:50 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 58
These are the pictures. I have a goodman gmt115-5. Also, is it normal for the burners to go off every 3-5 minutes and turn back on? And when the burners go off the air from the vent is not that hot? I'm sorry I'm not good with how furnace works so please excuse me. Oh and the burners turn on after like a minute. So is that normal? And also where is the right C in my furnace board? Because like I said the display keeps turning off after approx 4 minutes and coming back on after approximately 53 seconds. And keep in mind I have a furnace and a air conditioner unit outside. If I want heat I have to put it on heat. If I want air conditioner I have to put it on cool. Thanks for all your help in advanced.
 
Attached Images    
  #10  
Old 02-15-14, 10:53 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 58
I added pictures so that you can get a better idea. Thanks.
 
  #11  
Old 02-15-14, 11:47 AM
lawrosa's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Galivants Ferry SC USA
Posts: 17,726
Likes Received: 2
That looks like 120v that common but not sure. Can you take an overall pic of the whole thing?
 
  #12  
Old 02-15-14, 12:00 PM
lawrosa's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Galivants Ferry SC USA
Posts: 17,726
Likes Received: 2
I believe you get 24v from that terminal to the left of the white wire here... thats where the hook up should be... that black terminal that says 24v. Believe its used for the humidifire

But as was stated it may break the connection.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]26793[/ATTACH]


But the connections below this transformer can get you the 24vs too.. that red wire I belive...


[ATTACH=CONFIG]26792[/ATTACH]
 
Attached Images   
  #13  
Old 02-15-14, 12:14 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 50,954
Likes Received: 155
Your burners are shutting off on high heat which is exactly why your thermostat is losing power as Ed explained in post 8.

You need to check for blocked return vent, too many closed supply registers, dirty air filter(s), problems with the blower fan or dust clogged A/C coil.
 
  #14  
Old 02-15-14, 12:54 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 58
http://youtu.be/v7qCNhcPizY
Here is a video. I hope this helps. I just recorded it.
 
  #15  
Old 02-15-14, 12:58 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 58
  #16  
Old 02-15-14, 02:39 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 58
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BypCI7BVncU&feature=youtu.be
Here is a video on my furnace operating. Now, it is operating on the older thermostat and not the new one. I really really really really appreciate you all taking the time and watching these videos of mines. Please private message me your addresses if you want. I want to send you all thank you cards
 
  #17  
Old 02-15-14, 03:01 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 58
So, these are the videos of how my furnace is working. If you guys need any additional videos, please let me know. I will be more than happy to provide you with more recordings. I am sorry if at first maybe the videos didn't work. However, they should work right now. Again, I want to thank you all for all your help. If you allow me please to send you all thank you cards. Thanks again
 
  #18  
Old 02-15-14, 03:57 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 58
Also, how can I restart my furnace? Does it need to be restarted? Sorry for all these questions. Thanks
 
  #19  
Old 02-15-14, 05:07 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 58
UPDATE:

I am sorry for all these posts. I found these things. This one is a short video. Again, I can't tell you or explain how much I appreciate this.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kR1BTxblZ5U
 
  #20  
Old 02-15-14, 05:22 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 50,954
Likes Received: 155
The hot air leaking around the A/C coil lines isn't too terrible. You can fix that with foil tape.
That leak in the exhaust line looks like the two pipes are separating. That can not be left that way as it allows exhaust gases into the house. Usually those pipes have a screw holding them together so that they cannot slide apart.
 
  #21  
Old 02-15-14, 05:29 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 50,954
Likes Received: 155
Watching the video previous...... I see the burners shutting down at 4 minutes..... the heat exchanger cools off and the burners relight. It appears to do that over and over and it will as long as something is restricting the air flow. Did you check all the things I mentioned above ? Did you change the air filter ? Try running the unit with the blower door open. You may have to hold down the safety switch with tape or something.
 
  #22  
Old 02-15-14, 05:38 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 50,954
Likes Received: 155
Your burners are shutting off on high heat which is exactly why your thermostat is losing power as Ed explained in post 8.You need to check for blocked return vent, too many closed supply registers, dirty air filter(s), problems with the blower fan or dust clogged A/C coil.
Some equipment / boards will break "R" when a limit opens.
We've explained previously why your WiFi thermostat is losing the display. Every time the burner on your furnace shuts off due to high heat.... it turns off power to your thermostat. You don't see it with your old one because it runs on batteries. The new one needs the 24vac to operate.

Every 4 minutes your burner shuts off and so does the thermostat.
53 seconds later the burner relights and the thermostat turns back on.
 
  #23  
Old 02-15-14, 06:06 PM
lawrosa's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Galivants Ferry SC USA
Posts: 17,726
Likes Received: 2
And to add I really would not worry about the T stat at this moment...

Do you have working CO detectors in the home?

That flue pipe with the hole in it needs to be fixed ASAP? You can die as well as everyone in the home from CO poisoning... The old joke is you-ll wake up dead!!! Unfortunate you wont wake up...

IMO you should call in a pro at this point.....
 
  #24  
Old 02-15-14, 07:29 PM
Grady's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 13,928
Lawrosa is absolutely right. First & formost that vent pipe needs to be repaired. No way would I allow a furnace with something like that to stay in service. It will KILL you. Once you get that fixed, come back & we will tackle the limit problem. Until the vent is fixed, don't even think about running that furnace.
 
  #25  
Old 02-16-14, 10:50 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 58
Hello everyone! How is everyone doing? I hope everyone is doing great! First and foremost, I would like to really deeply truly thank you all from the bottom of my heart for all your help. You guys saved my life. This crack probably has been like this for a while. However, the CO detectors never went off. I did go ahead and turn the system off. We slept with no heat. Anyways, today a pro is coming and is going to fix it.

Now, my furnace board was blinking four times. Which stands for "OPEN LIMIT SWITCH" according to the troubleshooting list on the back of the furnace cover. And it says to check "MAIN LIMIT OPEN/AUX. LIMIT OPEN".

That blinks when the burners go off. So what does that really mean? Is my limit switch going bad? And why would there be something restricting the air flow? Could it be the blower?

I did change the air filter prior this past week. So it's good. I only have one air vent closed and one is like almost half way opened. The one that is fully closed is in the basement and there is another vent and that one is opened.

So I don't know?

Again, I appreciate this so so much. You don't even know. I wish I can throw a party and invite all you guys haha
 
  #26  
Old 02-16-14, 10:54 AM
Grady's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 13,928
The most common cause for a limit error is an air flow restriction. When yoiu changed air filters, what kind of filter did you use. If it was one of the pleated ones, I suggest trying a simple glass fiber filter.
 
  #27  
Old 02-16-14, 11:15 AM
lawrosa's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Galivants Ferry SC USA
Posts: 17,726
Likes Received: 2
Could be the A/C coil is clogged up also I believe.
 
  #28  
Old 02-17-14, 03:49 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 58
Hello everyone! How is everyone doing? I hope everyone is doing great. Anyways, yesterday a pro came by and he temporarily put a closure on the crack. He's coming tomorrow morning to fix it completely. He is going to remove the whole exhaust pipe and install a new one. Then, he said that my a/c coil is plugged as you guys said. So he's going to remove that and clean that up. He's going to change my limit switch or open limit switch. He's going to replace the flame sensor as well I believe, because he says I may have damaged it a little when I took it out and sanded it. He's going to fix up some of the wires that I cut off and tied back together. Another thing is that I have been using a cheap filter and a shorter sized filter. So probably so much dust and dirty has passed through without being filtered and it would just go through the a/c coil and clog it. It makes sense that there was restriction of air and my burners would turn off quickly and trigger the limit switch. So he believes that the limit switches strength has died down because of it always being triggered. He said that he probably will not put in my a/c coil until I am ready for summer time. He said he will try to fix it and unclog it. He might see if I am in need of a new one. He definitely will try to save it and get a couple more years out of the a/c coil.

Another important question is how many CO detectors do I need? I have a condo. It's a two floor condo with a finished basement. 3 bedrooms and 1.5 bathrooms. I have one in the office room, one in the middle room and one in the living room. The one in the office room is a combination of smoke and CO. I have a smoke detector in the hallway. It's controlled by the ADT alarm system.

Also, where do I position them? Someone told me that you should position them low on the floor because CO is heavy and it starts from the bottom and rises to the top. I have them pretty low. I have the pictures below. What brand do you guys recommend? Do you recommend a battery powered or the electric outlet ones? Thanks again!

Attachment 26909Name:  photo 2.jpg
Views: 11661
Size:  22.3 KBName:  photo 3.jpg
Views: 11580
Size:  32.7 KB
 
Attached Images  
  #29  
Old 02-17-14, 04:32 PM
Grady's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 13,928
You mentioned the use of a "cheap" filter. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the glass fiber filters. DO NOT use the expensive pleated filters unless the contractor is going to install a 4" thick one. The finer the filter, the more it will restrict the air flow. I've used the glass fiber filters in my own A/C system for 20+ years, have never cleaned the coil, & when I checked it late last summer, it was fine. Just make sure all the return air goes thru the filter.

CO detectors should be on each level of the home, in each bedroom or, if bedrooms are clustered, one outside the bedrooms. They should be 1 -2 feet below the ceiling. Whomever told you CO is heavy is dead wrong. The specific gravity of CO is 0.9657 whereas air is 1.0000. As you can see, CO is lighter than air thus the mounting on the wall 1-2 feet below the ceiling. Keep them away from sources of steam (ie; away from bathroom doors).

I prefer the battery powered since they can be placed higher on the wall. All detectors must meet certain UL standards. Essentially the only difference is features such as a light, digital display, if they are plain CO or combination units, etc.
 
  #30  
Old 02-18-14, 01:28 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 58
Oh OK. I guess I'll stick to the regular filters, but I just have to get the right size. How about my CO detectors? Should I place them higher? Or leave them the way they are?
 
  #31  
Old 02-18-14, 06:27 PM
Grady's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 13,928
Move them. Close to the floor is the worst place for them.
 
  #32  
Old 02-18-14, 09:13 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 58
Oh OK. I will do that. Someone said they should be eye level. So maybe I should have them at least eye level or a little higher? Anyways, what brands of CO detectors do you recommend? There are some called CO Experts that detect low levels and there's another one NSI 3000.
 
  #33  
Old 02-20-14, 06:32 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 58
UPDATE

OK, this other guy came and he said that my A/C is not plugged. He didn't open it and check it though. He said you have good air coming from the vents. He said that my unit is just too big for my house and the duct work is too small and that is why it is overheating and turning the burners off after 4 minutes 1/2? Would that make sense? And, he says that there maybe something wrong with my board that my thermostat is turning off. He said because the burners are turning off because of overheating that should not cut the power to the 24V....I don't know if that is making any sense? However, I am definitely having him change my exhaust pipe, because that needs to be changed. He is going to change that today. He's going to open and see my A/C coil as well and look at it. I don't know if the system is too big for my house...can that be possible? That it could overheat because of it?

Here's the link for a short video (36 seconds ) of how my ducts look like.

Duct - YouTube
 
  #34  
Old 02-20-14, 06:35 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 58
Oh yeah and my system is a...

Name:  image.jpg
Views: 11813
Size:  47.9 KB
 
  #35  
Old 02-20-14, 06:44 PM
Grady's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 13,928
Without knowing the actual duct size, number of registers, & size of registers, it's hard to say if the ducts are too small or not. Simply looking at the video & guessing at the duct size, I would say there is a fairly strong chance the ducts are too small & yes that would cause the burners to short cycle.
That particular make & model of furnacae is noted for heat exchanger failure.
 
  #36  
Old 02-24-15, 04:04 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 50,954
Likes Received: 155
And, he says that there maybe something wrong with my board that my thermostat is turning off.
He's wrong. On your furnace.... the LS (limit switch) is in series with the R terminal. When that switch opens due to high heat the R (24v) terminal is turned off.

Name:  ls.jpg
Views: 9556
Size:  11.8 KB


All your posted videos are private.
 
  #37  
Old 02-24-15, 08:19 PM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: canada
Posts: 1
Hi Grady Thanks. last two weeks i was kept changing my setting. After i read this i changed my filter. next minute it stop restarting. thanks again.
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes