Amana Goodwin 3 Blinks - tested condensate piping and pressure switches - next?
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Amana Goodwin 3 Blinks - tested condensate piping and pressure switches - next?
Hello all,
We have a basement Amana furnace (Model guca070cx30) that started blinking 3 times a couple weeks ago. Utilizing this wonderful site I've done the following to troubleshoot:
*Checked air filter for blockage
*Fan turns on when I switch it on from the thermostat (A/C also works)
*Have done the system power down/turn off gas and restart
*Poured warm water into the condensate pipes to try to clear it of any gunk (the condensate pump turns on when pouring into either pipe so I assume that's clear?)
*Inhaled/exhaled into each of the pressure switch tubes and both "click". One pressure switch clicks on and the ignitor becomes red and the blinking stops from the panel momentarily but no action from the blower motor.
*the draft inducer motor feels hot to the touch even though its inactive
*given where the unit is, there's some lengthy exhaust piping that leads outside and exits under my deck. I haven't had a chance to get under there to shop/vac the exhaust pipe but figured it'd be unlikely a bird could've wound up underneath there since it's covered.
Any suggestions on what next to troubleshoot? If the exhaust piping could come off at the unit, I could try and shop/vac from underneath the house but wondering if others have ideas? Could a blown draft inducer motor cause the pressure switches to trip?
Much appreciated.
We have a basement Amana furnace (Model guca070cx30) that started blinking 3 times a couple weeks ago. Utilizing this wonderful site I've done the following to troubleshoot:
*Checked air filter for blockage
*Fan turns on when I switch it on from the thermostat (A/C also works)
*Have done the system power down/turn off gas and restart
*Poured warm water into the condensate pipes to try to clear it of any gunk (the condensate pump turns on when pouring into either pipe so I assume that's clear?)
*Inhaled/exhaled into each of the pressure switch tubes and both "click". One pressure switch clicks on and the ignitor becomes red and the blinking stops from the panel momentarily but no action from the blower motor.
*the draft inducer motor feels hot to the touch even though its inactive
*given where the unit is, there's some lengthy exhaust piping that leads outside and exits under my deck. I haven't had a chance to get under there to shop/vac the exhaust pipe but figured it'd be unlikely a bird could've wound up underneath there since it's covered.
Any suggestions on what next to troubleshoot? If the exhaust piping could come off at the unit, I could try and shop/vac from underneath the house but wondering if others have ideas? Could a blown draft inducer motor cause the pressure switches to trip?
Much appreciated.
Last edited by KTom524; 04-01-14 at 03:36 PM.
#2
Welcome to the forums.
The three blink code is pressure switch related. A lazy draft inducer motor could definitely cause that problem. Usually, but not always, they get noisy when causing problems. Since they handle the exhaust gases directly..... they run HOT and can stay hot for a long time after the furnace shuts off. Check where the rubber hose and where it connects to the inducer for blockages.
You mentioned long exhaust lines. Read over the manual and see if your lines are possibly outside the requirements of the furnace.
The following link is an excellent and extremely helpful manual for your furnace. Page 77 has the diagnostic routine listed.
TechDocs Amana Gas Furnace SERVICE MANUAL.pdf
The three blink code is pressure switch related. A lazy draft inducer motor could definitely cause that problem. Usually, but not always, they get noisy when causing problems. Since they handle the exhaust gases directly..... they run HOT and can stay hot for a long time after the furnace shuts off. Check where the rubber hose and where it connects to the inducer for blockages.
You mentioned long exhaust lines. Read over the manual and see if your lines are possibly outside the requirements of the furnace.
The following link is an excellent and extremely helpful manual for your furnace. Page 77 has the diagnostic routine listed.
TechDocs Amana Gas Furnace SERVICE MANUAL.pdf
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PJmax,
Thanks for the warm welcome and reply. I definitely think we're onto something with the draft inducer. It's hot to the touch without the furnace ever starting so I'm thinking it has burnt out. Given it's below ground I didn't hear any noise before the system shut down.
I will check the rubber hose...I believe it runs to the condensate pump if I recall correctly. One thing I noticed was that the particular draft inducer I'm replacing has 2 inlet tubes from 2 different pressure switches. I've been researching and it appears the OEM replacement part (GOODMAN 0171M00000S) only has one inlet (presumably for the ignitor as I don't know what the other pressure switch tests) so I'm a bit confused to whether or not I should be replacing the FASCO unit that's in there directly or go back to the OEM part.
Thoughts?
Thanks for the warm welcome and reply. I definitely think we're onto something with the draft inducer. It's hot to the touch without the furnace ever starting so I'm thinking it has burnt out. Given it's below ground I didn't hear any noise before the system shut down.
I will check the rubber hose...I believe it runs to the condensate pump if I recall correctly. One thing I noticed was that the particular draft inducer I'm replacing has 2 inlet tubes from 2 different pressure switches. I've been researching and it appears the OEM replacement part (GOODMAN 0171M00000S) only has one inlet (presumably for the ignitor as I don't know what the other pressure switch tests) so I'm a bit confused to whether or not I should be replacing the FASCO unit that's in there directly or go back to the OEM part.
Thoughts?
#4
When the thermostat calls for heat..... the inducer should be the first thing to start. So you are telling us that it's not running at all. Should be easy to tell if it has the little fan blade on the outside.
If you have two pressure switches then I'm pretty sure you need the two port blower. You may need to give the serial number of the furnace to the parts supplier as there may have been a design change after a certain serial number.
If you have two pressure switches then I'm pretty sure you need the two port blower. You may need to give the serial number of the furnace to the parts supplier as there may have been a design change after a certain serial number.
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Thanks PJmax. Second switch tube was attached to the base in which the inducer was attached to so only one switch directly linked to the inducer itself.
Purchased a new Goodwin inducer according to the OEM specs and installed it last night (with the fins on the outside) and voila - heat is back on! Interesting that the Goodwin unit says FASCO and Jakel on it - I presumed they were all competitors.
thanks for your help
Purchased a new Goodwin inducer according to the OEM specs and installed it last night (with the fins on the outside) and voila - heat is back on! Interesting that the Goodwin unit says FASCO and Jakel on it - I presumed they were all competitors.
thanks for your help
#6
Great news
Thanks for stopping by and leaving the update.
When a manufacturer builds a product.... not just furnaces...... they purchase parts from many vendors. Sometimes it's a low bidder issue and other times it's availability.

When a manufacturer builds a product.... not just furnaces...... they purchase parts from many vendors. Sometimes it's a low bidder issue and other times it's availability.