the small fan on model # guc070b30c will constantly run and that is it. any help with this would be wonderful. i have checked the filter and burners. cleaned ignitor.

 

Sounds like the pressure switch isn't closing. The pressure switch has a tube from it going to the small fan.

 

Welcome to the forums.

The igniter is extremely fragile and does not get cleaned.

Your furnace should have a control board with a red LED on it. That LED will flash a trouble code. The module may be in the blower area below the burner. When you open the blower door, power is removed from the furnace. You will have to hold the safety switch in and allow the furnace to try to restart. Now you should get a trouble code. Some blower doors have a little window where you can just peek in to see the LED.

 

we removed the high altitude conversion kit. and the connector to it appears to be burnt. it is a tridelta industries inc model f56111-388. they no longer make these. I am now needing to know what is the replacement # for this part

 

I can't read the label, but there should be a # on that is followed by WC. That would be the pressure that the switch closes. You'll need to match that.

 

here is a better picture of the sticker. I am wondering if there is a way to by pass this just to see if that is the only issue with the heater? I live in a small town overwhelmed by the bakken. Parts are hard to come by.

 

To test furnace ONLY........... you should have three wires on the pressure switch. You need to connect the blue and orange together with the furnace not calling for heat. As soon as the thermostat calls for heat you need open the blue and orange and connect the orange to the yellow. The furnace should start up.

I'm trying to figure out how that terminal got so burned like that.

New on eBay.....
Tridelta FS6111 388 938113 Pressure Switch 27724 | eBay

Replacement part....
Pex supply/ Goodman-Amana-C6456506-Pressure-Switch-1-05-WC

Amana/Goodman C6456506 (-)1.05" WC Pressure Switch

 

Okay, am trying this out now. Will let u know shortly.

 

so when connecting wires as said here is what happens. the fan kicks on, than the ignitor warms up. then you hear a click and ignitor is off. u never hear the pilot light kick on. and it starts the steps again. when it is done doing its 3 start attempts. the condenser fan keeps running. this is the same fan that ran all day long yesterday. it never did try to kick on by itself.

 

Ok...since the igniter is working you are getting the three wire sequence correct.

At this point there is a control board problem or a gas valve issue.

The gas valve should open 17 seconds after the call for heat. That means that you'll see the igniter start to glow and then within 17 seconds the gas valve will open for 7 seconds. If the burner doesn't light in that 7 seconds the gas valve closes and the igniter shuts off. The process repeats three times.

So what you need to do next is to connect your AC voltmeter to the two wires coming to the gas valve. Watch for 24vac on them. If you don't see the voltage.... the board is bad. If you see the voltage... there is a problem at the gas valve.

This can all be confusing so I'm leaving you the link to your manual. Around page 56 is the diagnostic section that will explain what I just described.

Amana manual