Williams Wall Furnace Kicking On and Off
#1
10-03-14, 12:46 PM
Williams Wall Furnace Kicking On and Off
So I have a Williams Wall Furnace that is causing a few problems. Sometimes the furnace will kick on and then randomly shut off. Sometimes it won't kick on at all until I bang on the knob area, or the bottom of the furnace. Does anyone know what the problem might be?
I have replaced the thermostat because it was broken. I clean the entire furnace, including the pilot.
I have replaced the thermostat because it was broken. I clean the entire furnace, including the pilot.
#2
10-03-14, 05:27 PM
Group Moderator
Welcome to the forums.
Williams makes many different models of wall heaters.
I'm going to need a model number to offer assistance.
Williams makes many different models of wall heaters.
I'm going to need a model number to offer assistance.
#4
10-05-14, 10:32 AM
Group Moderator
Thanks for the model number. Are you running on LPG or natural gas ?
Your unit has a pilot light in it that lights the main burner as well as a pilot generator that generates voltage to control the valve. If the pilot light isn't full and well defined then it won't generate enough voltage to open the valve properly. Check your pilot light for full flame first.
The part I'm referring to is # 17 in the following parts link.
WILLIAMS Wall Furnace Replacement Parts | Model 35GV-5 LPG | SearsPartsDirect
Your unit has a pilot light in it that lights the main burner as well as a pilot generator that generates voltage to control the valve. If the pilot light isn't full and well defined then it won't generate enough voltage to open the valve properly. Check your pilot light for full flame first.
The part I'm referring to is # 17 in the following parts link.
WILLIAMS Wall Furnace Replacement Parts | Model 35GV-5 LPG | SearsPartsDirect
#7
10-11-14, 01:42 AM
You may have been right. Cleaned the pilot again and it started up. Now I bought a new millivolt heat system thermostat and it won't work. Twist the wires together and it works...What kind of thermo should I be buying?
#8
10-11-14, 09:34 AM
Group Moderator
If you want an electronic type - get a battery operated one. Almost any thermostat should work for you. You'd connect to the R and W terminals.
#9
10-11-14, 07:45 PM
So it stopped working again. I took it all apart again and cleaned it again. Put it together. This time, after I lit the pilot and turned the knob from "Pilot" to "On" the furnace lit up and then went out before it hit "On", taking the pilot lightl with it. Any ideas what may have caused it?
I turned it off.
I turned it off.
#11
10-15-14, 08:15 PM
Typically it is a dirty pilot and/or the wrong thermostat. With a millivolt system you must use the proper thermostat or have the ability to adjust a combo type using a meter. So many times a 24 volt type is used that has a heat anticipator and that has to much resistance for a generator. However with the use of a meter much of the time an adjustment can be made to reduce the resistance. However if it is the small 250 style generator the proper thermostat is needed most of the time. With the 750 style you have more to work with
#12
10-15-14, 08:38 PM
Group Moderator
I haven't seen any heat anticipator adjustments on any battery thermostats. 
Most of the battery operated thermostats now have relay controlled outputs.
Most of the battery operated thermostats now have relay controlled outputs.
#14
10-16-14, 09:25 AM
The pilot in almost spotless and I now have the right thermostat. After I lit the pilot and turned the knob from "Pilot" to "On" the furnace lit up and then went out before it hit "On", taking the pilot light with it. Any ideas what may have caused this?
I bought a new furnace yesterday but figured I would try to fix the old furnace one more time.
I bought a new furnace yesterday but figured I would try to fix the old furnace one more time.
#15
10-16-14, 10:24 AM
Are you able to post a picture of the controls and the pilot? Also is the appliance (line valve) valve in the complete open position? Where in Ca are you, does PG&E serve you?
#16
10-16-14, 02:32 PM
Yes it is all the way on. I don't think they service my area. I am in the Forest Falls area.
Here are the pics: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/t3g5njt2o...T6hIHPcBa?dl=0
Today I banged on the controls, where the ITT stamp is and it fired on for about 10 mins and then shut off.
Thanks so much!
Here are the pics: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/t3g5njt2o...T6hIHPcBa?dl=0
Today I banged on the controls, where the ITT stamp is and it fired on for about 10 mins and then shut off.
Thanks so much!
#17
10-16-14, 06:55 PM
You have a B-67 gas valve and they are very reliable. Without seeing the pilot flame it is difficult to agree if the pilot is as clean as it should be. Are you able to use a multi meter and take reads at the gas valve? You may want yo clip the spade clips off of the generator wire and scrap the copper bright and replace on the terminals. Are there any splices you can see in the thermostat wire? Check the end of the valve and look for a chrome cap like button, some models have and it is a vent for regulator. If you have one remove it and try it with the thermostat turned up. Stick with us we can figure this out . How about a picture of the entire burner/ control area and the thermostat. Also a pic of he pilot flame
#18
10-16-14, 07:04 PM
I have no issue doing all of this and I am grateful for the help but when I turn it from "pilot" to "on" why does it fire up? It's slightly combusts and makes me a little nervous.
#22
10-17-14, 09:50 AM
Your comment got me thinking so I decided to just get a piece of wire and touch it right to the controls, it started right up. What is this and could it be causing the problem? I bypassed it when touching the wires to the controls.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3pbje125xb...94636.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3pbje125xb...94636.jpg?dl=0
Last edited by PJmax; 10-18-14 at 08:14 AM. Reason: added picture
#23
10-18-14, 08:11 AM
Group Moderator
That is a safety stat or heat sensor. It could open the circuit if the unit was overheating or it could close a switch if the unit had a blower in it. If it's in the thermostat line then it's a safety stat.
It will have a degree rating on it.
It will have a degree rating on it.
#27
10-18-14, 05:00 PM
Group Moderator
You're right..... it's a cheap part but it needs to be there. It is a safety device. A safety device is never bypassed or eliminated.
Like mbk said.... a voltmeter is mightier than the pen.
Like mbk said.... a voltmeter is mightier than the pen.
