Not sure if this belongs here, but it's a propane related question. Back in December of last year, I bought a house with a buried 1,000 gallon propane tank. It didn't take long to realize that it's a REALLY expensive way to heat a house. I took on the cost of bringing natural gas to the house, which has about a 2-year payback according to my calculations. I left only the hot water heater hooked up to the propane tank - everything else is now NG. The rationale is this: 1) the HW heater was the only appliance that could not be converted to NG, 2) the HW heater is a 75-gallon, power vent unit that will cost $1,500 to replace, 3) I have 800 gallons of propane to burn. Knowing that the HW heater has a 72,000 BTU burner, I figure I'll run out of propane early next year. At which point I'll bite the bullet and put a NG HW heater in. The plumber that did the NG conversion left me a plugged "T" near the HW heater so I can easily swing over to NG. So the question is, when that HW heater does run out of propane can I hook up a BBQ grill tank to it where it connects at the 1,000 gallon tank to get me through the transition to NG? I figure a 20 lb. cylinder would last about a week. There are 2 regulators - one at the tank and another before the plumbing goes into the house. The fitting from the tank to the first regulator looks like it will go right into a 20 lb. tank.

I just bought a house with a Criterion RGLH-07EAUER down flow furnace. This is our first home, and when we had the inspection the furnace worked just fine. I had noticed that the unit was very dirty though, so I had a technician come over and clean the blower by taking it out of the furnace and service the A/C as well. The A/C works great, but when we tried the heater, it wouldn't work properly. The accumulator blower kicks on, then igniter heats up, gas turns on and flames start. Then a few seconds later I hear a click, the igniter starts to dim and the flame shuts off. I will see 3 quick green light flashes and then it will then cycle once more, but this time when the flame shuts off the blower will kick on and run for a few minutes. The technician told me that I needed a new accumulator motor because the old one was making a loud noise and took a while to get up to speed. I bought a new Rheem 70-24157-03 Inducer Blower Motor 10701 and installed it with no change in the results. I then decided to replace the flame sensor, and this did not help either. I thought maybe polarity was switched so I switched the white and black leads incoming to the unit and no change in results. I saw a similar post about blower leads hooked up to "cool" "heat" and parked leads. I had a red wire coming from the blower motor that is capped off which I found strange, but I doubt the technician would have changed anything that was hooked up because the unit worked before he serviced it. He would have had to strip the wire and cap it off so I assumed it was fine. Black wire runs to "cool" and yellow runs to a "Heat" and blue runs to the "mi" terminal. Any help would be appreciated. We are trying to at least get one winter out of this thing before we need to replace it. Thanks! The people who owned the house before us did not take care of this unit at all. Also, I did replace the filter.