New Homeowner: Do I have a bad ignitor?
#1
12-04-14, 10:47 PM
New Homeowner: Do I have a bad ignitor?
After a few hours of running back and forth between the furnace, the garage (to get tools), and the computer (to get information and diagrams) I have come to the conclusion that I need to buy a new ignitor for our furnace.
We bought our first house back in April, and this is our first winter here. It is also my first foray in HVAC maintenance, so I took some pictures. I'm hoping that some of you fine experts can either confirm my diag, or help me figure out the real issue if I'm wrong.
Furnace Info
Model: Nordyne Intertherm M3RL060A BWT
What I've Done
I opened the furnace cover and right away I noticed all the corrosion. It appears that I have a moisture leak from the black assembly above the deck (the motor maybe??). I'd like advice on that leak as well, but for now I just need to at least get the furnace generating some heat. Right now the inside of our house is around 45*F.
Next, I removed both the ignitor (#632363, http://www.amazon.com/Nordyne-903758...eywords=632363, mine is similar to this but has a connector on the end of the wires) and the flame sensor to inspect them, too.
If my assessment is correct, I'm pretty positive that I can just clean the flame sensor with some steel wool, but I think that the ignitor needs to be replaced. Can ignitors like this be cleaned to restore their functionality? I haven't tested it for continuity as the visible condition makes me think that would be a waste of money on a continuity tester.
Here are a couple of pictures of the deck area with the presumed leak:
Pic of the flame sensor:
Pics of the ignitor:
I appreciate any and all advice you have to offer. Thanks!
Jake
We bought our first house back in April, and this is our first winter here. It is also my first foray in HVAC maintenance, so I took some pictures. I'm hoping that some of you fine experts can either confirm my diag, or help me figure out the real issue if I'm wrong.
Furnace Info
Model: Nordyne Intertherm M3RL060A BWT
What I've Done
I opened the furnace cover and right away I noticed all the corrosion. It appears that I have a moisture leak from the black assembly above the deck (the motor maybe??). I'd like advice on that leak as well, but for now I just need to at least get the furnace generating some heat. Right now the inside of our house is around 45*F.
Next, I removed both the ignitor (#632363, http://www.amazon.com/Nordyne-903758...eywords=632363, mine is similar to this but has a connector on the end of the wires) and the flame sensor to inspect them, too.
If my assessment is correct, I'm pretty positive that I can just clean the flame sensor with some steel wool, but I think that the ignitor needs to be replaced. Can ignitors like this be cleaned to restore their functionality? I haven't tested it for continuity as the visible condition makes me think that would be a waste of money on a continuity tester.
Here are a couple of pictures of the deck area with the presumed leak:
Pic of the flame sensor:
Pics of the ignitor:
I appreciate any and all advice you have to offer. Thanks!
Jake
#2
12-04-14, 11:02 PM
Group Moderator
Yes....you can steel wool/sand that flame sensor rod.
That ignitor is cracked..... it's no good and must be replaced.
That ignitor is cracked..... it's no good and must be replaced.
#3
12-05-14, 06:07 AM
Member
That corrosion appears to be from the condensate returning back to the furnace,it should be going into the condensate pump. Do you have this manual?
http://www.nordyne.com/Literature/708219d.pdf
Geo
http://www.nordyne.com/Literature/708219d.pdf
Geo
Last edited by Geochurchi; 12-05-14 at 06:09 AM. Reason: To add PDF
#5
12-05-14, 04:36 PM
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Let's get it going & get you some heat. Once the house warms up & you can get any gaskets which may break when you take the thing apart, you can tear into it.
Do you have any local HVAC supply houses which will sell to a homeowner? If so, you might be able to get an ignitor there rather than having to order it.
Do you have any local HVAC supply houses which will sell to a homeowner? If so, you might be able to get an ignitor there rather than having to order it.
#6
12-05-14, 11:06 PM
Hey Grady,
Last night after the generous midnight reply PJmax I spent some time looking for replacement ignitors. Being the middle of the night I didn't think I would be able to get ahold of any local companies. I looked on the typical HD, L, and AH websites (abbreviations used so that I don't accidentally advertise for any companies) I was unable to find any obvious local resellers with this item in stock. At about 2AM I did order an ignitor from that electronic auction website that ends with Bay for around 25 bucks (as opposed to the $70 plus I saw on some other websites. Even though the temp in the house is around 45*, the weather report indicates that we should be relatively mild for a couple of days and we have a small space heater that we put in the bedroom temporarily. During the daytime we are usually at work/college anyway, so the low daytime temps + being away + space heater in the bedroom + broke college couple justified the ~$50 savings of waiting a couple of days. The new ignitor should arrive sometime between Monday and Wednesday. As soon as I get it I'll of course install it and test to see that the furnace ignites. I took the ignitor apart and there was only one gasket where the wires go through the metal mounting bracket and its condition seemed fine.
While I wait for the new one to arrive is there anything I should be doing to address the corrosion issue?
Thank you so much for your advice,
Jake
Last night after the generous midnight reply PJmax I spent some time looking for replacement ignitors. Being the middle of the night I didn't think I would be able to get ahold of any local companies. I looked on the typical HD, L, and AH websites (abbreviations used so that I don't accidentally advertise for any companies) I was unable to find any obvious local resellers with this item in stock. At about 2AM I did order an ignitor from that electronic auction website that ends with Bay for around 25 bucks (as opposed to the $70 plus I saw on some other websites. Even though the temp in the house is around 45*, the weather report indicates that we should be relatively mild for a couple of days and we have a small space heater that we put in the bedroom temporarily. During the daytime we are usually at work/college anyway, so the low daytime temps + being away + space heater in the bedroom + broke college couple justified the ~$50 savings of waiting a couple of days. The new ignitor should arrive sometime between Monday and Wednesday. As soon as I get it I'll of course install it and test to see that the furnace ignites. I took the ignitor apart and there was only one gasket where the wires go through the metal mounting bracket and its condition seemed fine.
While I wait for the new one to arrive is there anything I should be doing to address the corrosion issue?
Thank you so much for your advice,
Jake
#7
12-07-14, 10:43 AM
Update: Tracking on the ignitor indicates that I should have the new one sometime tomorrow. I'll pick it up from my mailbox after work and get it installed ASAP. I'll update here once it's installed.
#8
12-13-14, 10:10 AM
Cracked Again
I installed the new ignitor on Monday night and it worked! We were nice and toasty for a few days!
I installed the new ignitor last night and we had heat again!
However, last night the furnace refused to light. I opened it up this morning and found that the new ignitor had cracked.
Something worth noting is that when I installed the new one it was about 1/32 inch too wide to fit through the hole so I had to bend the sheet metal up maybe a quarter inch to get it to fit. After lighting the furnace I looked through the view port and noticed that about 1/4-1/2 of the width of the ignitor was directly in the flame due to the angle caused by bending up the sheet metal.
This leads me to 3 questions:
1) Is it OK for the ignitor to be sitting in the flame like that?
2) Did the new one just crack because it was bad?
3) Did the new one crack because of the moisture issue I have?
Thank you,
Jake
I installed the new ignitor last night and we had heat again!
However, last night the furnace refused to light. I opened it up this morning and found that the new ignitor had cracked.
Something worth noting is that when I installed the new one it was about 1/32 inch too wide to fit through the hole so I had to bend the sheet metal up maybe a quarter inch to get it to fit. After lighting the furnace I looked through the view port and noticed that about 1/4-1/2 of the width of the ignitor was directly in the flame due to the angle caused by bending up the sheet metal.
This leads me to 3 questions:
1) Is it OK for the ignitor to be sitting in the flame like that?
2) Did the new one just crack because it was bad?
3) Did the new one crack because of the moisture issue I have?
Thank you,
Jake
#9
12-13-14, 10:27 AM
Member
It appears you installed the wrong ignitor and could explain why it didn't fit properly. Here is a link to the parts list for your furnace:
http://yaunco.com/pdfs/miller/m3parts.pdf
It shows the correct part number is 903758. Here is a link to one source that shows a photo:
903758 - Nordyne 903758 - Hot Surface Ignitor for G3-G6
The photo you posted of your original ignitor appears to be the same as the one linked.
The part number 632363 is clearly shown on your ignitor in the photo. Here is a link to that part number: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nordyne-Inte...-/370925032731
http://yaunco.com/pdfs/miller/m3parts.pdf
It shows the correct part number is 903758. Here is a link to one source that shows a photo:
903758 - Nordyne 903758 - Hot Surface Ignitor for G3-G6
The photo you posted of your original ignitor appears to be the same as the one linked.
The part number 632363 is clearly shown on your ignitor in the photo. Here is a link to that part number: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nordyne-Inte...-/370925032731
#10
12-13-14, 10:37 AM
Hey Firedawg,
Thank you very much for those links. I thought that it could have been the wrong one when i got it since they didn't look identical, but the listing I bought it from listed it with the same part number. Furnace Igniter Ignitor Replaces Partners Choice 903758 | eBay
However, now that I'm looking at the listing that I bought from compared to the photo of the one they sent me it looks like they may have sent the wrong one.
I'm heading over to a local hvac supply house now to get another new one, so I'll report back on how it goes.
Thanks,
Jake
Thank you very much for those links. I thought that it could have been the wrong one when i got it since they didn't look identical, but the listing I bought it from listed it with the same part number. Furnace Igniter Ignitor Replaces Partners Choice 903758 | eBay
However, now that I'm looking at the listing that I bought from compared to the photo of the one they sent me it looks like they may have sent the wrong one.
I'm heading over to a local hvac supply house now to get another new one, so I'll report back on how it goes.
Thanks,
Jake
#11
12-13-14, 10:40 AM
Member
I would contact the eBay vendor that sold you the part and let them know they sent the wrong part and ask to return it for a refund. Give them a chance to make it right. If he doesn't cooperate you can file a claim with eBay and/or leave bad feedback.
#13
12-13-14, 12:49 PM
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For future reference: I would convert from the silicon carbide type ignitor you have now to a silicon nitride type. The silicon nitride igniitors are much more durable & most are "universal". You can get Honeywell's Q3200U Glowfly or White-Rodgers 21D64-2 for $25-40. I've used both & they are both good.
#14
12-13-14, 01:00 PM
Hey Grady,
Thanks for the tip. I vaguely remember looking at those when I was on eBay, but I think they were more expensive which is why I didn't. The next time I have to buy one I'll definitely look into that instead.
FYI, I did send an email to the eBay seller, so we'll see what happens. I told them I'd accept an exchange as long as they send me the correct part. If they do that then I'll just keep it as a backup.
Everyone's advice is greatly appreciated and I'll keep you all updated if/when anything happens. I know it sucks when someone posts in a forum and never comes back. :-)
Thanks,
Jake
Thanks for the tip. I vaguely remember looking at those when I was on eBay, but I think they were more expensive which is why I didn't. The next time I have to buy one I'll definitely look into that instead.
FYI, I did send an email to the eBay seller, so we'll see what happens. I told them I'd accept an exchange as long as they send me the correct part. If they do that then I'll just keep it as a backup.
Everyone's advice is greatly appreciated and I'll keep you all updated if/when anything happens. I know it sucks when someone posts in a forum and never comes back. :-)
Thanks,
Jake
#15
12-13-14, 01:25 PM
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I suggest keeping a back up on hand. Cheap insurance.
FYI: It has been my experience when replacing a Nordyne ignitor, unless using one of the two I previously mentioned, you will experience trouble with cracking unless you use genuine Nordyne replacement parts. As you found out, the non OEM ones are usually just a hair larger.
Thanks for letting us know what's been going on. You're right, it does stink when we try to help someone & we never hear back. We don't know if we helped or if they think "what a bunch of idiots".
FYI: It has been my experience when replacing a Nordyne ignitor, unless using one of the two I previously mentioned, you will experience trouble with cracking unless you use genuine Nordyne replacement parts. As you found out, the non OEM ones are usually just a hair larger.
Thanks for letting us know what's been going on. You're right, it does stink when we try to help someone & we never hear back. We don't know if we helped or if they think "what a bunch of idiots".
#17
12-14-14, 01:03 PM
Well, there's $64 that I may as well have run through the shredder. ARRGHHH!! (and other obscenities....)
I'm starting to wonder if the moisture issue is what is making each ignitor crack. Thoughts?
I'm starting to wonder if the moisture issue is what is making each ignitor crack. Thoughts?
#18
12-14-14, 01:08 PM
Also FYI,
We have a gas fireplace in the living room, but when we bought the place the inspector told us we wouldn't be able to use it without buying the remote for it (MRC Remote Control On Off Millivolt Ignition CGHRCB CMRC GHRC B HRC100 MLRC MLCR-M 01995 | MonsterMarketplace.com). Since we keep having furnace issues I finally opened it up and figured out that I could turn it on manually.
It probably isn't going to be nearly as efficient as the furnace, but it's definitely better than nothing. Especially considering that it started to snow today. Just thought I'd let you all know that we aren't completely out in the cold... Pun intended. :-)
Thanks for your tips!
Jake
We have a gas fireplace in the living room, but when we bought the place the inspector told us we wouldn't be able to use it without buying the remote for it (MRC Remote Control On Off Millivolt Ignition CGHRCB CMRC GHRC B HRC100 MLRC MLCR-M 01995 | MonsterMarketplace.com). Since we keep having furnace issues I finally opened it up and figured out that I could turn it on manually.
It probably isn't going to be nearly as efficient as the furnace, but it's definitely better than nothing. Especially considering that it started to snow today. Just thought I'd let you all know that we aren't completely out in the cold... Pun intended. :-)
Thanks for your tips!
Jake
#19
12-14-14, 01:24 PM
Member
You are certainly having your share of bad luck with the ignitor issue. I would say there is a very great possibility the cause of the cracks on three different ignitors is the condensate water dripping onto the hot ignitor. Before installing any more ignitors you really need to correct the issue with the condensate. The installation manual linked in a previous post describes the condensate drain system starting on page 19 and illustrated in figure 21.
#21
12-14-14, 01:48 PM
Member
You should have a condensate drain hose connected to the collector box. The collector box is what the inducer motor is mounted to and collects the condensate from above and then drains it out through a drain hose and into a condensate trap. First, I would put something waterproof like a small tarp or plastic sheet on top of the shelf where the ignitor wires enter. Then remove the drain hose and be ready to catch any water coming out of the collector box. Then following the condensate drain hose downward to see where it attaches to the trap. This trap needs to be removed and cleaned out thoroughly. From the trap there will be an outlet that will have a hose attached to it which will go to a drain pipe. All of these hoses have to be cleaned out to ensure they are not clogged up.
#22
12-14-14, 02:12 PM
Thank you for those steps. As soon as I get home I'll start taking photos and digging in. Hopefully this is all fixable and won't require a new furnace.
-Jake
-Jake
#23
12-14-14, 02:29 PM
Member
You probably have what is known as a "J" trap connected between the condensate drain hose at the collector box and the drain hose that goes through the cabinet. See attached diagram. Do you have your condensate drain going to a floor drain, to a condensate pump, or some other method?
#24
12-14-14, 05:06 PM
We got home but don't have time to start on the furnace yet as we have to be somewhere else right now. I did want to say that the fireplace seems to be heating the house alright for now at least even if it isn't as good as the furnace would be. Do you think we are ok to run the fireplace overnight? It's an enclosed gas unit, so I'm not sure.
#25
12-14-14, 05:16 PM
Member
Do you think we are ok to run the fireplace overnight? It's an enclosed gas unit, so I'm not sure.
#26
12-14-14, 05:24 PM
Which we do; in the same room as the fireplace. Is it going to rack up our gas bill enough for us to consider shutting it of during the day? With your advice I'll run it overnight to at least keep the pipes from freezing.
#27
12-14-14, 05:39 PM
Member
How much it racks up your gas bill will depend on what your local gas prices are. One thing for sure, whatever it costs to operate the gas fireplace will be cheaper than replacing all of the water pipes if they bust.
#28
12-14-14, 09:14 PM
So here we go....
From the collector box there is a hose that goes to the "J" trap as you described it, FireDawg. Exiting out of the "J" trap is another hose which goes to a drain pipe running through the floor of the cabinet and then through the actual floor. The hoses and drain pipe never even leave the furnace cabinet at all. Here's the photo (notice the arrows showing the drain flow).
I rigged together a aqueduct-to-tank contraption using a modified, quart-sized freezer baggie, a skewer, and some painter's tape. I used the skewer to add some rigidity to my aqueduct and I wanted to be sure that the water wouldn't be too heavy for the plastic and spill all over the floor.
I taped one end of the aqueduct to the collector box just under the drain hose, and at the opposite end I'm using an empty coffee container as my water tank.
I'm going to drain it now and disconnect all the hoses for cleaning. I'm not sure if I'll get much farther than this tonight since I have to work tomorrow, so this'll probably be my last post for now. I'll wait for your comments and keep going on it tomorrow.
UPDATE/EDIT:
I disconnected the hose from the collector box and absolutely nothing came out. The furnace hasn't successfully ran since sometime in the middle of this morning though which may be why, I suppose. So I guess I'll just disconnect the hoses, and trap for cleaning and do more tomorrow.
Thanks!
Jake
From the collector box there is a hose that goes to the "J" trap as you described it, FireDawg. Exiting out of the "J" trap is another hose which goes to a drain pipe running through the floor of the cabinet and then through the actual floor. The hoses and drain pipe never even leave the furnace cabinet at all. Here's the photo (notice the arrows showing the drain flow).
I rigged together a aqueduct-to-tank contraption using a modified, quart-sized freezer baggie, a skewer, and some painter's tape. I used the skewer to add some rigidity to my aqueduct and I wanted to be sure that the water wouldn't be too heavy for the plastic and spill all over the floor.
I taped one end of the aqueduct to the collector box just under the drain hose, and at the opposite end I'm using an empty coffee container as my water tank.
I'm going to drain it now and disconnect all the hoses for cleaning. I'm not sure if I'll get much farther than this tonight since I have to work tomorrow, so this'll probably be my last post for now. I'll wait for your comments and keep going on it tomorrow.
UPDATE/EDIT:
I disconnected the hose from the collector box and absolutely nothing came out. The furnace hasn't successfully ran since sometime in the middle of this morning though which may be why, I suppose. So I guess I'll just disconnect the hoses, and trap for cleaning and do more tomorrow.
Thanks!
Jake
#29
12-14-14, 09:32 PM
Member
I disconnected the hose from the collector box and absolutely nothing came out. The furnace hasn't successfully ran since sometime in the middle of this morning though which may be why, I suppose.
You will need to determine where the drain pipe that goes out the bottom of the cabinet and through the floor goes to and where it eventually drains into. If you have a wet/dry vacuum you can use that on the drain pipes and hoses as well as the collector box. Make sure you remove the hoses that go to the pressure switch before using a vacuum. It appears there is another condensate drain hose that connects to the collar leaving the inducer outlet and to the collector box. Check that hose also to make sure it is clear. It is imperative the drain system flows freely at all times for proper operation of your furnace.
#30
12-14-14, 09:32 PM
UPDATE:
After pulling the hoses and trap off I found that the hoses were pretty darn clean. The trap, howerver, was ~75-80% clogged. There was some water getting through when I put it under the running tap, but not much. I got it cleaned out pretty well with some craft-use pipe cleaners though (who knew they could be used for cleaning pipes??!), but should I run any sort of solvent through it?
Thanks!
Jake
After pulling the hoses and trap off I found that the hoses were pretty darn clean. The trap, howerver, was ~75-80% clogged. There was some water getting through when I put it under the running tap, but not much. I got it cleaned out pretty well with some craft-use pipe cleaners though (who knew they could be used for cleaning pipes??!), but should I run any sort of solvent through it?
Thanks!
Jake
#31
12-14-14, 09:55 PM
Member
I would inspect the black plastic collector box to see if you see any cracks in it. No, I wouldn't put any solvent through it. The condensate is very acid so make sure you don't let your bare skin touch it. The next step is to make sure the collector box is draining through the nipple where the drain hose attaches. Question: when your furnace was running properly could you see condensate draining through the hoses?
#32
12-14-14, 10:14 PM
Hey FireDawg,
I took my screwdriver and flashlight and looked inside that nipple and didn't see anything clogging the hole. In fact, it was pretty clean/dry in there as there wasn't any corrosion on the "wall" at the back inside there.
Forgive my ignorance, but is the reason I need to follow the drain pipe (i.e. go into the crawlspace) so that I can make sure it isn't clogged also?
As for using the shop vac on the collector box, I'll have to do that tomorrow as it's getting pretty late and I have to get up early for work tomorrow. Before I do so I'll be sure to disconnect the hoses from the pressure switch.
I pulled off the hose from the top-end of the inducer motor and rinsed it out also, but it was pretty clean like the drain hoses were.
It sounds like my next steps for tomorrow are to get into the crawlspace to check the drain pipes, and to remove the collector box to check for leaks, yes? Is removing the inducer motor to do that pretty straight-forward?
Thanks,
Jake
I took my screwdriver and flashlight and looked inside that nipple and didn't see anything clogging the hole. In fact, it was pretty clean/dry in there as there wasn't any corrosion on the "wall" at the back inside there.
Forgive my ignorance, but is the reason I need to follow the drain pipe (i.e. go into the crawlspace) so that I can make sure it isn't clogged also?
As for using the shop vac on the collector box, I'll have to do that tomorrow as it's getting pretty late and I have to get up early for work tomorrow. Before I do so I'll be sure to disconnect the hoses from the pressure switch.
I pulled off the hose from the top-end of the inducer motor and rinsed it out also, but it was pretty clean like the drain hoses were.
It sounds like my next steps for tomorrow are to get into the crawlspace to check the drain pipes, and to remove the collector box to check for leaks, yes? Is removing the inducer motor to do that pretty straight-forward?
Thanks,
Jake
#33
12-14-14, 10:23 PM
I inspected the black collector box, but I don't see any obvious damage/cracking/etc, but I did notice that there seems to be a missing screw from what I assume is a mounting point. Coincidentally (or not so coincidentally, probably) there's evidence of leaking at that exact point. See photo...
As to your question, I can't provide you an answer. Being that this is our first house I've never had to maintain a furnace before, so I never knew to check these things.
Is checking that the collector box is draining through the nipple where the drain hose attaches as simple as putting some water through the hose at the top of the inducer motor?
-Jake
As to your question, I can't provide you an answer. Being that this is our first house I've never had to maintain a furnace before, so I never knew to check these things.
Is checking that the collector box is draining through the nipple where the drain hose attaches as simple as putting some water through the hose at the top of the inducer motor?
-Jake
#34
12-15-14, 07:15 AM
Member
It appears you have 4 different leaks from the area at bottom of the inducer and one near the pvc reducer to the right. The collector box gasket is probably the culprit. Replacement gaskets can be difficult to find. You can use a high temperature caulking in lieu of a gasket. You will definitely need to replace the missing screw. I would also ensure the other screws are tight being careful to not over-torque them and cause cracks. Removal of the inducer on your furnace should be straightforward. I attached a photo of the inducer that shows there are only three bolts that need to be removed. It appears your collector box is pretty clean. I don't think you will need to use a shop vac at this point. It is always a good idea to understand your plumbing system. If you find the drain that your furnace condensate drains into make sure the pipe is sloped toward the drain and there are no sags along the length of pipe where the condensate can pool.
#35
12-15-14, 08:18 AM
Hey Firedawg,
Replacing that gasket shouldn't be a big deal since you mentioned that I can use a high-temp caulk. I've got plenty leftover from a couple months ago when I had to install a new flashing around the fireplace vent pipe on the roof. I'll replace that screw, of course as well when I put it all back together. I will also try to make it into the crawl space to check out the drain pipe. I need to remove/replace a length of heat tape on a water line down there anyway.
Thanks again for your help. I'll post photos of my progress when I get there.
-Jake
Replacing that gasket shouldn't be a big deal since you mentioned that I can use a high-temp caulk. I've got plenty leftover from a couple months ago when I had to install a new flashing around the fireplace vent pipe on the roof. I'll replace that screw, of course as well when I put it all back together. I will also try to make it into the crawl space to check out the drain pipe. I need to remove/replace a length of heat tape on a water line down there anyway.
Thanks again for your help. I'll post photos of my progress when I get there.
-Jake
#36
12-16-14, 08:36 PM
Hey Everyone,
I've been working on a big project at work that's due Friday so I got stuck at work until 9:30 last night and again until 7:30 tonight, so I wasn't able to work on the collector box yesterday. I did get it off tonight though, so I wanted to post pics and an update to get some advice before I continue.
Removing the inducer motor was very straight forward, as promised...
I used my spackling knife to pry off the collector box and I'm pretty sure "gasket" is a generous term for how it was held on... I don't have much experience, but I'm pretty sure that whoever did this last time used plumber's putty. I can't imagine the furnace came with that, so I'm thinking that this has been an issue before, but please toss your thoughts at me as I'm certainly no expert.
I scraped off as much of the putty as I could realistically get with just the spackling knife. Also, looking at the wall behind the collector box it appears to me that the missing screw was really just an extra mount point. I'm sure they make these things to be compatible with different inducer motors or furnaces, so that's no surprise. The good news is that it's not missing the screw.
Finally, here is the photo of the caulk I have leftover from my roof work. I'm pretty sure it's fine, but I thought as long as I'm done working on this for the night I'd throw up the pic just in case.
Muchas gracias,
Jake
I've been working on a big project at work that's due Friday so I got stuck at work until 9:30 last night and again until 7:30 tonight, so I wasn't able to work on the collector box yesterday. I did get it off tonight though, so I wanted to post pics and an update to get some advice before I continue.
Removing the inducer motor was very straight forward, as promised...
I used my spackling knife to pry off the collector box and I'm pretty sure "gasket" is a generous term for how it was held on... I don't have much experience, but I'm pretty sure that whoever did this last time used plumber's putty. I can't imagine the furnace came with that, so I'm thinking that this has been an issue before, but please toss your thoughts at me as I'm certainly no expert.
I scraped off as much of the putty as I could realistically get with just the spackling knife. Also, looking at the wall behind the collector box it appears to me that the missing screw was really just an extra mount point. I'm sure they make these things to be compatible with different inducer motors or furnaces, so that's no surprise. The good news is that it's not missing the screw.
Finally, here is the photo of the caulk I have leftover from my roof work. I'm pretty sure it's fine, but I thought as long as I'm done working on this for the night I'd throw up the pic just in case.
Muchas gracias,
Jake
#37
12-16-14, 09:39 PM
Member
That is one UGLY job done by whomever worked on the collector box before. Makes a person wonder exactly what work was done. I would not recommend that roof leak patch sealant. That is some messy/sticky stuff and is really not the right product for the job you want to perform. I prefer to use this RTV high temp sealant for an application such as yours : Hi-Temp Silicone Caulk-57500 - The Home Depot It is the same product used for gasket material on car engines but much cheaper than buying it in 3 oz. tubes.
#38
12-16-14, 09:39 PM
Group Moderator
Jake.... you need to use a high heat RTV type product. That product in that tube will probably melt and make a genuine mess. The highest heat product is the red RTV. You can get it in any auto parts store. Be sure to clean the mating surfaces with a cleaner like lighter fluid.
Permatex/Hi-temp RTV silicone gasket maker 81160 at Auto Zone
Tag..... you're it Dawg.
Permatex/Hi-temp RTV silicone gasket maker 81160 at Auto Zone
Tag..... you're it Dawg.
#39
12-16-14, 09:49 PM
See, that's why I posted the pic. 
I've got a tube of high temp red laying around from when I did the clutch and timing chain cover on on my truck.
Thanks, PJ and firedawg.
Jake
I've got a tube of high temp red laying around from when I did the clutch and timing chain cover on on my truck.Thanks, PJ and firedawg.
Jake
#40
12-17-14, 07:06 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
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37 Posts
As long as you have the collector box off, why not pull the baffles in the tubes (if removable & most are), inspect the tubes, & brush them out if needed? You could then use a shop vac to suck out the debris.
That isn't a crack I see left of the fourth (counting from the right side) tube, is it?
That isn't a crack I see left of the fourth (counting from the right side) tube, is it?
