No ignitor spark have 24v at module

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Old 01-04-15, 02:22 PM
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No ignitor spark have 24v at module

Hi and thanks in advance!
I have a Heil NDGE075PF02
It quit lighting altogether even though the fans both run fine
I initially was able to get it lit by creating suction on the pressure switch hose
Hose is clean and bypassing/jumping the switch does not help
I have 24v at the entry to the control module but nothing going out to the ignitor (sparker/sensor)
all wires checked out = o continuity
I cleaned the ignitor and the gas port but nothing

Control module is a Honeywell S8600M - (no indicator lights)
over $100 to replace but I don't know what else it could be or any other tests I can do.
Yes it's cold in San Diego!!! hahahaha
 
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Old 01-04-15, 03:03 PM
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NO continuity??? You should have continuity thru the wire(s). Did you mean zero ohms?
 
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Old 01-05-15, 09:28 AM
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Hi Grady, Yes I meant zero ohms = continuity
I tried it again before we went to bed. I hooked up the tester to the 24v out to the sparker and as soon as I turned it on got a positive reading, heard spark and got flame. Worked perfect all night!?
I did take the control module apart just to have a look, but it is just a solid state circuit board, with no moving parts. Does not look like anything could get "loose" inside of it. I now have no idea why it is working, I would guess a bad connection/ground wire but I had already checked, pulled and cleaned them all a few days ago.
I suspect it may still be the board I don't know what else would cause no 24v to the sparker as was indicated for awhile.??
 
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Old 01-05-15, 09:55 AM
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Do you have this info?grounding is very important.https://www.torrco.com/DOCUMENTS/69-0463.pdf
Geo
 
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Old 01-05-15, 08:33 PM
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No I did not. Thanks for that. Do you think the ground somehow failed? It has worked fine for 15 years. Not real sure what you mean? It worked great again today. ????
 
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Old 01-05-15, 10:50 PM
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With age.... metal parts rust and corrode. It's important that the control connection to ground to be solid as well as the ground to the burners. Many times just taking the screws out and putting them back in is enough.

The S8600M control board is notorius for intermittent connections. Do a search here at DIY and you'll find many threads on the subject. Most problems turned out to be defective solder on the relays.

If you measure 24vac at the red X's and the unit is unresponsive..... the board is bad.

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Old 01-06-15, 08:01 AM
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Yes that is exactly what was happening.
I had 24v at "the red x's" but nothing at the spark & GND(burner) terminals.
I took everything apart (I do that a lot hahaha) and after putting it all back had 24v at the spark and it has now worked for 2 days
All connections and wires looked good. I may even run fresh ones just in case.
If this recurs I guess next would be to replace that board?
Thanks!
 
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Old 01-06-15, 08:53 AM
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You may be able to separate the board from the controller and look for bad solder joints underneath.
Just a thought.
If man made it,man can fix it!
Geo
 
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Old 01-06-15, 04:48 PM
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It's basically a board in a box - I'll have a look although all looked tight when I first opened it.
Man make = man break = man fix haha
 
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