Oil Burner keeps tripping after shutdown


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Old 01-31-15, 09:44 PM
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Oil Burner keeps tripping after shutdown

I have a Beckett AFG burner with a Carlin 42130-02 primary safety controller, after every single time the system shuts off I have to press the reset button to get the system to fire again. I know the system does not trip on start up as it never even attempts to fire. But if its reset it fires immediately, runs fine, and shuts off when the call for heat stops as it should.
I saw on a post that someone suggested tapping the primary controller with a screwdriver to see if that would get the relay to disconnect, it didn't do anything.
Does anyone have any other suggestions for diagnosing the problem?
 
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Old 02-01-15, 07:12 PM
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The 42130-02 is an electronic primary rather than electro-mechanical. What you describe certainly sounds like a problem with the primary but I've seen burner motors cause exactly the same symptom. Which of these does your motor look like? Patriot Supply - EL2002 or Patriot Supply - 21805U
 
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Old 02-04-15, 07:19 PM
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I have the same control and the same exact problem.

are you getting tired of going downstairs to reset your heat? me too. I really suspect the Carlin 42130 is the problem and will replace it. quick question if anyone knows, can a 42230 be used instead? they look very much alike and both are interrupted switches. they have some on eBay that are pretty inexpensive. thanks and good luck with your heat. BTW I have the Beckett burner as well. Ducane system by any chance?
 
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Old 02-04-15, 07:28 PM
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The 42130 is a combination primary control & ignitor on one baseplate. The 42230 is a stand alone primary control & likely will not fit on the base plate with the igntior.
 
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Old 02-04-15, 07:31 PM
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just saw your post Grady

The blower motor runs fine. I cleaned the burn chamber, changed the oil filter, adjusted the gun and gave it a new nozzle. the entire system runs great once I reset it. When the thermostat kicks on I hear a hum which sounds to me like the gun firing. it lasts for approximately 30 secs. no blower motor or oil pump though. To me that's pointing to the primary control. Any flaws in my argument?
 
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Old 02-04-15, 08:35 PM
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If the gun (burner) were firing, it would be more of a roar. The electrodes arcing give a buzzing sound. I believe that control is a 4 wire (Hot [Black], neutral [white], motor [orange], & ignitor [blue]) type. You need some means of checking to see if you are getting power out of the orange lead. If you are, replace the burner motor. If not, replace the control. As I asked Friedonionrings, which type of burner motor do you have?
 
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Old 02-05-15, 08:20 AM
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Thanks, that's what I meant by the gun firing.

Arcing of the electrodes is all I hear. On the schematic it shows the orange going to both the blower and the oil pump. So I think you're on to something I just have to figure out how to test it. I guess My motor looks the most like the EL2002. I'll attach pictures. Thanks again Grady.


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Old 02-05-15, 10:48 AM
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The pump itself is not powered. It is driven by the same motor which drives the burner fan. The pump is connected to the motor via a plastic coupling like this: https://www.patriot-supply.com/produ.../CROWN_KK100HK
Before replacing the control or the motor, we need to determine which is at fault & I suspect the motor. The two motors I linked to are interchangable but I prefer the 21805U.
 
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Old 02-05-15, 11:58 AM
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Ah makes sense

Now that I look at my setup the center of the pump lies directly opposite to the center of the motor. Which really explains why neither is coming on. But I'm confused as to why you would think the problem is the motor? Once I hold down the reset for 5 seconds the whole system including the motor works fine. Is there something on the motor that would fail even though the motor itself will still run?

As far as testing the orange lead my plan is to disconnect it from the motor and then hold down the reset with a voltmeter attached. Obviously keeping away from those nasty electrodes that I'm sure wouldn't tickle if touched. Is that the way I should go about it? As always thanks for the help.
 
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Old 02-05-15, 05:10 PM
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Your motor is what is called a split phase type. Internally it has a start switch. Ever have a car or small engine starter which when you first turn the key won't do anything then you let off the key & try again, it will start? Kind of the same thing with a split phase motor.

To test the orange wire off the primary: Turn off the power at the switch or breaker. Disconnect the orange & white from the motor. Connect one lead of your meter to orange & the other a ground. Set the thermostat to call for heat. Turn the switch or breaker back on. You should see 120 volts.
 
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Old 02-07-15, 11:57 AM
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got it! When I went to test the orange lead I discovered it went not to the motor but to the power vent control box. So after reading up on PV's and Control boxes i realized i probably should've mentioned that to you. Anyway, there's a coil relay hanging off the side of the vacuum control box that somehow was slightly hanging out of its socket. pushed it back in and began to hear the familiar hum of the electric coil. I swear its never that simple. pic attached. read some about 2 phase motors. get it now. Thanks for your help. Frankie.
 
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Old 02-07-15, 01:50 PM
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Grrrr... Just kidding, Frankie. Knowing a power vent was involved would have helped but often people, myself included, will omit a detail because they either don't think of it or don't think it has anything to do with the problem. Anyway, glad you got it fixed & didn't have to replace any parts especially since I don't know if that control is still available or not.
I would strongly urge you to get that fiberglass away from the vent pipe.
 
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Old 02-09-15, 07:12 PM
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Glad to see it was something simple.

That being said, that Carlin combination ignitor and primary reset control (42130) is on 'borrowed-time', at best. Those combo units never seemed to last much past 10 or so yrs....be preemptive and replace with separate ignitor and primary, including complete cad cell harness. I'd put a post-purge style primary on it too, like a Honeywell R7284U....a good tech will know how to do it right

While on the subject of power venters...has that motor been oiled? If it's an older model, the motor behind the cover outside has a small motor inside that should be oiled annually. Regular oiling really makes them quieter and last longer. Newer Field Control PV units have sealed bearing motors (finally!!!!) and of course, don't need much maintenance at all.
 
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Old 02-09-15, 08:39 PM
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CToilman, Welcome aboard. Good to have another person around who has 2 oil flowing in his veins. We don't get a lot of oil burner questions but when we do, it's nice to have some back-up.
 
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Old 02-09-15, 08:44 PM
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Frankie, not to scare you or anything of the sort but that furnace, if it is what I think it is, has a really bad reputation with their heat exchangers. You really should get it checked out by a pro.
 
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Old 02-10-15, 06:39 PM
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I had to join the forum...you were gettin overworked Grady!!!

I use #2 in place of cologne too!!
 
 

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