Oil furnace tripping Honeywell reset.


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Old 02-13-15, 02:46 PM
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Oil furnace tripping Honeywell reset.

Hello there. I need help ASAP our oil furnace keeps tripping the Honeywell box reset button. I have cleaned out the inside of the furnace, I have cleaned the eye. I have tightened all the wires to the Honeywell box. I have sprayed all contact points with electro clear. I am getting flame soon as i hit the reset button and it will run normal blower will come on. But once it cycles it seems on the next start up it flips the reset button and i have to reset it again.Name:  heater 2.jpg
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Last edited by Michael Snyder; 02-13-15 at 03:36 PM.
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Old 02-13-15, 03:49 PM
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There are a number of possible causes. To help narrow down the field, something you can do is: The next time you have to reset it, as soon as the burner fires, open the flame observation door above the burner & pay attention to the color of the flame. It should be light yellow.
Allow the burner to run about 30 seconds.
Push & hold the reset button.
Did the flame go out within a second or two OR did it continue to burn lazily?
 
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Old 02-13-15, 04:00 PM
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Ok the flame to me looks light orange. I did the reset thing the flame seems to go out but not 100% sure hard to see in there it's still glowing down in the pot a little after i do the reset thing not sure if left over heat or flame.
 

Last edited by Michael Snyder; 02-13-15 at 05:24 PM. Reason: Updated
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Old 02-13-15, 06:55 PM
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When was the last tuneup, aka: cleaning??

There are sooo many things that could trip the reset, but starting with the basics (fresh oil filter and nozzle) will likely clear it up.
 
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Old 02-13-15, 07:19 PM
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Both were put in brand new 3 months ago. I also just tested the cad cell relay and i get no readings when i take one F post off and leave one on and test it. Then when the furnace is running and both wires are connected to the F posts and tested it makes the meter go super crazy and i get no reading on the screen. I took the Eye out and tested it by touching the posts on it and got no reading.
 
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Old 02-13-15, 11:30 PM
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The way you have to check a cad cell is with both wires disconnected. Once the burner fires you can disconnect the wires & quickly install a jumper between F-F. Use an ohmeter to check resistance thru the cad cell. With the burner firing, you should get 400-800 ohms (max of 1000).
 
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Old 02-14-15, 12:07 AM
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When i test the cad cell the meter go's nuts just beeps and no numbers display like it's getting a too high reading to display. I also took the Eye out and tested it and i get no reading at all.
 
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Old 02-14-15, 02:12 PM
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If you are measuring at the relay, don't. You need to connect your meter to the loose wire ends.
 
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Old 02-14-15, 06:19 PM
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I'm getting no reading at all
 
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Old 02-14-15, 06:31 PM
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Is there any difference in the meter reading when the two probes are touched together & separated from eacn other? If you can post a clear picture of your meter, maybe I can tell if it is a setting problem.
 
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Old 02-14-15, 11:26 PM
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Ok this is odd the Furnace for past two days if reset around 8pm will run all night and clear till the next day till around late afternoon then it will start tripping the reset button again and again. Then around 8pm we reset it and it will work all night again. But will start tripping reset around late afternoon.
 
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Old 02-15-15, 05:56 AM
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The cad cell is a variable resistor, the more light it 'sees' the lower the resistance it has. To test it, you need to disconnect both yellow wires from the primary and then fire the burner. With the burner running, your meter should read less than 1000 ohms across the 2 wires (no measurement on the control terminals), anything more than that is usually too much and reset will trip. Do note since there is no wires attached to the primary, your resistance test needs to be done within 45 seconds because the primary is gettting no resistance provided by the cad cell.

That all being said, my gut feeling is your burner motor is the culprit.....what you have described is common with an older motor.
 
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Old 02-15-15, 11:01 AM
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Is there anyway to test the burner motor or do i need to call someone in.
 
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Old 02-15-15, 01:39 PM
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I too was thinking of a burner motor problem but it could also be the igniton transformer. I can't believe the problem is with the cad cell.

There's no reliable way to test a burner motor I am aware of. If you do replace the motor, I suggest a PSC type motor like this: Patriot Supply -
 
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Old 02-15-15, 03:15 PM
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Ok we adjusted the air flow on the motor we opened it up a little more from a setting of 3 to a setting of 4.5. The flame is now less orange and no black smoke is coming out through the pipes flame looks more yellow now. But i noticed the pipe going from the furnace before it hits the damper is getting hot is that normal ?
 
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Old 02-15-15, 08:40 PM
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Ok furnace has ran for hours since we adjusted the air flow on the side of the motor. But now at night at the coldest time it is not kicking on and reset is tripped.
 
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Old 02-15-15, 09:08 PM
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Reset it & look at the flame right away. Then push & hold the reset button. Look for the continued burn. Let me know what you see.

Please post the make & model of the furnace. From that I can probably get the factory spec'd burner set up data.
 
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Old 02-15-15, 10:18 PM
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OK did the reset and now i'm getting no flame and my oil tanks say they are half full. I got the make and model but model was missing one letter was rubbed off. It's a DMO Industries model AF 65 X_
 
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Old 02-16-15, 11:22 AM
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I need the make & model of the furnace not the burner. The burner is a private labeled Beckett.

This is beginning to sound more like either an air/fuel problem or an ignition transformer. Earlier you opened the air from '3' to '4.5'. Try closing the air down to about '3.5' & reset the burner one more time. If the burner does not fire within 5- 10 seconds turn it off.
 
 

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