Bryant 398AAW furnace: random pilot gas valve activity
#1
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Bryant 398AAW furnace: random pilot gas valve activity
I have a mid 80's Bryant furnace that has the three wire pilot. Gas valve model 646AX-1. When heat is called for the induction blower runs, I prove air pressure but the pilot gas does not turn on. I don't hear the pilot gas valve pop. Sometimes when the furnace has not been used (cold), I will get a normal sequence and hear the pilot gas valve pop. When the pilot lights everything else functions normally.
I need to know how to test gas valve or what else could be causeing this.
Any help is greatly appreciated!!
I need to know how to test gas valve or what else could be causeing this.
Any help is greatly appreciated!!
#2
Welcome to the forums.
How do you prove air pressure ? Do you have a meter connected to the switch ?
I would lean more towards a control board problem as opposed to a bad valve.
You should hear a relay on the control board click and then the pilot should light.
We need a full model number of that furnace. It will be found on an ID tag near the burner area.
How do you prove air pressure ? Do you have a meter connected to the switch ?
I would lean more towards a control board problem as opposed to a bad valve.
You should hear a relay on the control board click and then the pilot should light.
We need a full model number of that furnace. It will be found on an ID tag near the burner area.
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Yes, I have meter on air pressure switch.
This morning I let it go longer and pilot gas valve popped after a longer period of time. and gas went to pilot. No spark. When gas valve pops quickly I have always seen spark.
What leads on gas valve do I need to check for voltage to see if signal is coming for pilot gas? The valve pictured here is a spare I have. Mine is still hooked up.
I will get full model number at lunchtime when I go home.
Thanks!!
This morning I let it go longer and pilot gas valve popped after a longer period of time. and gas went to pilot. No spark. When gas valve pops quickly I have always seen spark.
What leads on gas valve do I need to check for voltage to see if signal is coming for pilot gas? The valve pictured here is a spare I have. Mine is still hooked up.
I will get full model number at lunchtime when I go home.
Thanks!!
#5
You checked the amount of vacuum but you need to put a volt meter on the switch to see if it's actually closing.
Utilizing this service manual.....docs/1009/Public/00/58SX-18SI.pdf
I find this for your gas valve.

Terminals 1 and 3 are main gas valve.
Terminals 2 and 5 are the pilot valve.
Utilizing this service manual.....docs/1009/Public/00/58SX-18SI.pdf
I find this for your gas valve.

Terminals 1 and 3 are main gas valve.
Terminals 2 and 5 are the pilot valve.
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Thanks Pete.
I am getting 2.7 volts on 2 and 5 after I prove air pressure. No pilot gas. Sometimes I will still hear it poo and I will get pilot gas. Usually nothing.
Bad gas valve?
I am getting 2.7 volts on 2 and 5 after I prove air pressure. No pilot gas. Sometimes I will still hear it poo and I will get pilot gas. Usually nothing.
Bad gas valve?
#7
I'm not certain what you should measure. I would expect to see +/- 24vac.
I've located what looks like several replacement valves and they all spec 24vac.
It would appear to be either a defective relay on the control board or a dirty connection in the wiring. Check for the voltage right at the connector on the board.
I've located what looks like several replacement valves and they all spec 24vac.
It would appear to be either a defective relay on the control board or a dirty connection in the wiring. Check for the voltage right at the connector on the board.
#9
I left you the link for the manual. If it's not in there you'll need to physically follow the wiring from the valve back to the board.
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I don't know how to read those real well. A white wire comes from board directly to valve. A brown wire comes from a little board behind the air pressure switch. I thinks it's one of those but I am not sure how to verify.
#12
Have you checked the spark generator for power in power out. Check for 24 volts going in with thermostat calling for heat. Power out is the high voltage wire. Remove the wire and with an insolated screwdriver touch the tip and then pull away about a quarter inch away to see if there is a spark.
#13
The manual I left you the link to is different from your furnace. Your furnace uses a dual port pressure switch and has been the cause of many problems.
Check this video out and see if it helps you.
you tube/watch?v=r7TmMjRkruY
I'm looking for the correct service manual now.
Check this video out and see if it helps you.
you tube/watch?v=r7TmMjRkruY
I'm looking for the correct service manual now.
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I have not checked spark generator yet. I want to solve the pilot gas valve issue first. Should the spark generator start before pilot gas valve opens? I assumed the spark starts after pilot gas valve opens.
#18
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Post another picture of the right hand side of the diagram. This part of the diagram is called a ladder diagram and is easier to interpret furnace sequence compared to the schematic in the left side of the diagram you provided
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I am wondering what the 11C-Link, Fusible (Over temp) is for. I have noticed intermittent activity. Sometimes when the furnace is cold it fires more often. Is the 11C-Link some sort of temperature shut down? Plus those jumper wires seam quite old and brittle. Three wire pilot was replaced one year ago.
#21
I combined your threads. Please keep the topic in this thread.
The fusible link is open or closed. If your furnace is operating.... the link is good.
You were checking previously and you found low voltage at the gas valve and normal voltage at the board. Did you persue that ???
The fusible link is open or closed. If your furnace is operating.... the link is good.
You were checking previously and you found low voltage at the gas valve and normal voltage at the board. Did you persue that ???
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Yes. I get full, uninterrupted low voltage (24v) at terminal 4 on gas valve coming from the brown wire. There is a yellow wire on terminal 4 which heads to the pilot assembly. In line there is a fusible link. The fusible link is not blown, but it may have a bad connection. Yellow wire continues to pilot assembly. A green wire returns from pilot assembly to gas valve at terminal 5 to open pilot gas. I get intermittent voltage at terminal 5 (pilot gas valve) and subsequently at spark box. There is a loose connection, or the pilot assembly is bad. I am testing continuity today after work.
Does anyone know the temp rating for the fusible link? That link is very old, should it be replaced?
Does anyone know the temp rating for the fusible link? That link is very old, should it be replaced?
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Pilot assembly had intermittent continuity on green and yellow. I had a spare, so I replaced the pilot assembly and it seams to be ok. I will let it cycle a few times to verify. There is still a very random bit of intermittent signal by the fusible link. Does anyone know the temp rating of that?
#24
While I was hunting around I came across this troubleshooting guide. I believe it covers your unit. Has extensive voltage check points listed.
hvac partners/docs/1009/Public/06/TSP-398A-1.pdf
The 11C fusible link is for sale and is discussed all over the internet but no one talks about the rating. If I'm not mistaken it's rated to melt open at 117°f.
hvac partners/docs/1009/Public/06/TSP-398A-1.pdf
The 11C fusible link is for sale and is discussed all over the internet but no one talks about the rating. If I'm not mistaken it's rated to melt open at 117°f.