Taco zvc403-4 not working with taco zone valves and honeywell wifi t-stats


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Old 11-29-15, 07:02 PM
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Taco zvc403-4 not working with taco zone valves and honeywell wifi t-stats

Hi --

I decided to upgrade my original mercury-based t-stats with (2) Honeywell 9580 wifi t-stats. In addition, I purchased and implemented a Taco ZVC403-4 zone control device.

In addition, I have:

- (2) zones (up/downstairs).
- (2) Taco zone control 555-102 valves
- (1) Honeywell Aquastat L8151A

I am currently not getting any lights on the zvc, aside from the power. Both t-stats are on, despite no lights showing. Oddly enough, if I disconnect 2 of 3 t-stat wires, an amber light does come on for the respective t-stat. However, the t-stat does not power on with one 1 wire plugged in to the zvc.

There are no lights for the 2 zone valves--regardless of how I manipulate the wires. I have even tried to jump 1 & 2 as well as 2 & 3. I have no idea what is wrong/why it isn't functioning properly.

I am currently manually opening both zone valves so that I can get heat in my house. Obviously this is not conducive as I cannot regulate the temp with this method.

Can someone provide an end-to-end wiring solution/thoughts as to what is causing for this to not work? I have spent at least 15 hours reading about the taco devices/wiring schemas. I have come across something stating to put a resistor for the t-stat connections as the t-stats can hog too much power? I am not certain of this, nor does it explain why the zone valve lights are not lighting up.

Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 11-30-15, 12:07 AM
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Welcome to the forums.

We can't see any of your wiring so were guessing at how you have it connected but the ZVC requires 120vac and has a power light inside that should be on.

Do you have the 120v connected to the ZVC-403 and is the power LED on ?
 
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Old 11-30-15, 10:15 PM
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Hi,

Yes, the power LED is on (green). It is connected to the 120v. I removed the 24v box that was initially installed on the furnace and directly wired the zvc to that. I will attach pictures momentarily.
 
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Old 11-30-15, 10:29 PM
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Please excuse the sloppy wiring ... It is a work in progress ...Name:  IMG_0728.jpg
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Old 11-30-15, 10:33 PM
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Is it possible that I have a defective zvc?
 
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Old 11-30-15, 11:48 PM
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It's possible. I need a bigger picture of your wiring. You may have to have it remotely hosted and link it here. You are currently at the board limit of 50k in size.

If you try a jumper from R to W at the stat locations on the board.... do the lights come on ?
If you have a voltmeter....check from R to C for 24vac.
 
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Old 12-01-15, 01:26 PM
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wow! well done! I never tried to jump the R & W on the t-stat connections. Now the LEDs for both zones are AMBER and the zone valve LEDs are RED. I am not sure if that is good, as RED is normally indicative of something bad? Is that normal while they become energized? Will the t-stat LEDs turn GREEN once the set temp has been reached respective of each zone?

Also, I am not sure if my circulator pump is functioning. It is a Taco 007-F5. I only have one, and it is connected right at the output line coming out of the furnace (prob. 8 inches out). Is there a way to check it? I have not connected it to the ZVC. It is still connected to the aquastat. Should I disconnect it from the acquastat and connect to the ZVC, or should I just run a secondary wire to the ZVC, so that the circulator is connected to both the acquastat as well as the ZVC?

Thanks again for the help!
 
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Old 12-01-15, 02:31 PM
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That test means the ZVC is ok and you may have the stats wired wrong.

Not sure of the colors but the stat light and the zone valve light will go out when the stat reaches setpoint.

I believe the circulator will now be controlled by the ZVC and you'll need a set of wires from the ZVC to the TT terminal on the aquastat.
 
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Old 12-01-15, 03:48 PM
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End Switch not wired?

I believe you don't have the endswitch in ZVC wired to the T-T terminals on the boiler aquastat. Wired correctly, the ZVC will tell the boiler aquastat to run the circulator once the zone valve is open.

IIRC, the ZVC is just a convenient interface between the thermostats and the zone valves. Of course, it has those fancy lights that let you know what zone is calling too .
 
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Old 12-01-15, 03:49 PM
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It's all that but it's also a hefty power supply to run everything.
 
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Old 12-01-15, 05:42 PM
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I have the T-T wires from the aquastat going to the isolated end switch on the ZVC. Should they be going to the PUMP end switch connectors instead?

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Old 12-01-15, 05:49 PM
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If the aquastat no longer has the circulator wired to it, does that mean that the circulator will not kick in for hot water calls? My furnance is responsible for the hot water as well, since I do not have a hot water tank/tankless system. I am looking at getting a tankless system in the near future.
 
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Old 12-01-15, 06:50 PM
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Any more surprises ?

If you have a zone valve for the DHW then that should be connected to zone 3 on the ZVC which can be set up as a priority channel.

The XX terminals get connected to TT on the aquastat.
 
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Old 12-01-15, 07:25 PM
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It turns out that by jumping the R & W, the heat is just 'ON' now. It is not turning off once the set temp has been reached. The both zones are now almost 10 degrees higher than what they are set for. I had to turn off the furnace by using the emergency red switch, as that's the fastest accessible solution.
 
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Old 12-01-15, 07:30 PM
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Of course.... jumpering R and W is just like the stat calling for heat.
I told you to try that as a test.

It appears you don't have the stats wired correctly.
 
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Old 12-16-15, 05:00 PM
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So last night I finally figured it out. I now know that no one, including Honeywell, has any clue--so it feels great knowing that I pioneered the solution

The tstats are wired correctly. The issue, is that the Taco 3-wire zone valves had to be jumpered. The Taco ZVC has 1-4 connections for the zone valves. There are instructions that come with the ZVC displaying a 2 wire, 3 as well as 4-wire zone valve configuration. Instructions state that only the 2-wire zone valve should have slots 3 & 4 jumpered on the ZVC. The 3 and 4 wire should all be inserted in their respective slots. This is not the case! I had to disconnect the 3rd wire and jumper 3 & 4 as if it was a 2-wire zone valve. Problem solved.
 
 

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