Carrier 58PAV090-16 Series 130 Won't Light


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Old 12-15-15, 02:21 PM
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Carrier 58PAV090-16 Series 130 Won't Light

Inducer motor runs when thermostat calls for heat, click is heard, gas runs but no ignitor glow. This sequence repeats 3-4 times and stops. I replaced the Ignitor already. Ive pressed the manual reset buttons and the main limit switch tests positive for continuity. When unit is unplugged or bottom panel removed same thing happens except blower motor runs first then sequence starts as written above. I'm going to check the pressure switch today but besides that I have no other ideas.
 
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Old 12-15-15, 02:49 PM
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Look through the sight glass and see what trouble code you are getting. Could be a bad ignitor.
 

Last edited by skaggsje; 12-15-15 at 02:53 PM. Reason: added info
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Old 12-15-15, 05:13 PM
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How long ago did you replace the ignitor?
A visual inspection is usually all you need to see a damaged ignitor.



I would get that LED code but if you are hearing gas I would expect the problem to be the ignitor , the board or the wire between the ignitor and the board.



That ignitor should receive 120 volts AC after the inducer runs but before you hear gas flowing.

 
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Old 12-15-15, 05:18 PM
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Quick question.... how exactly do you know "gas runs" ?

If you're getting gas flow..... the pressure switch and all limits are good.
 
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Old 12-15-15, 05:42 PM
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I can hear the gas flowing and slight odor. I've lit it several times manually. It stayed on for a while but shut off before thermostat temp had been reached. It then went to 34 (ignition proving failure). I believe there was another code indicated when I first discovered we didn't have heat but I don't know what the code was at that time. I changed the ignitor yesterday even though I had no real reason to think the old one was bad. My knowledge on this subject is very little. I have tested the voltage at the disconnected ignitor lead and I tested it at the board itself with the connector pulled off. I will test it again, how long should it read 120v if its "working"?
 
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Old 12-15-15, 05:53 PM
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The thermostat calls for heat. The inducer starts. A few seconds later the pressure switch closes. A few to 25 seconds later the igniter should turn on. There is a relay for the igniter so you should hear it when it activates. The igniter stays powered until the gas valve opens.
 
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Old 12-15-15, 06:38 PM
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There is a pretty audible click right before the gas opens but the ignitor doesn't glow and no ignition.
 
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Old 12-15-15, 06:57 PM
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I took off the ignitor connector at the board. I set my meter to VAC and the meter never showed 120V. It showed about 2.926 or something like that.
 
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Old 12-15-15, 07:26 PM
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Some of the older 58PAV's had an edge pin connector. Water could run down this connector and damage the board. The harness plugs into the control board from the burner section. The edge pin connector was prone to corrosion.

Carrier changed the design around 1999 or 2000.

The replacement kits most commonly found (on a shelf in my van) do not replace the edge pin connector models.

The HK number on your board should help you find the replacement.
 
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Old 12-15-15, 07:26 PM
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If you aren't getting the 120v to the igniter then that would suggest a defective igniter relay.

Just thinking.... you can't pull the eleven pin plug off the board. It also has the limit switches on it. You need to check pins 1 and 2 on that board with the plug connected.

When you should be getting the igniter glowing.... try tapping on the little black cubes.... the relays.... and see if the igniter comes on then.

Just read Houstons post.... do you have the edge connector on the end of the board or a white nylon 11 pin connector directly on the board ?
 

Last edited by PJmax; 12-15-15 at 09:32 PM.
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Old 12-15-15, 07:42 PM
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Series 130 is really early.

We started using the 58PAV in 1992 so the series 130 is possibly a 1995 model.

The 3rd and 4th digit of the serial number indicate year.
 
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Old 12-15-15, 08:04 PM
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Our house was built in 1995
 
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Old 12-15-15, 08:07 PM
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I don't know what an edge connector or a white nylon 11 pin are.
 
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Old 12-15-15, 08:35 PM
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The earlier models had the wire harness plug into the top edge of the control board as shown on the left.



This was changed in later models possibly because the blower would pull unconditioned air into the plug and turn it green with corrosion.

if this plug feeds your ignitor (I don't think it does) you may only need to unplug the harness from the board and clean the board and harness.
 
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Old 12-15-15, 08:52 PM
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Here are a few shots. First is main board I guess. Second where the ignitor plugs into the unit. Third where the wires plug to the ignitor.
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Old 12-15-15, 09:42 PM
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In your top picture you can see a plug that connects to the edge of the pc board. In the picture below is the board with that plug disconnected. You will need to get to the back of the board and clean the area where I have the red box. That plug slides on the end of the board and contacts the metal foils on the board. The foils get corroded and don't make good connections. You can probably clean with a pencil eraser.

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I don't know how the board comes out as I'm not familiar with this earlier version of furnace.
 
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Old 12-15-15, 10:16 PM
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I'm sorry if I'm confused or wrong but this board is one solid unit with no additional plug on pieces. Here is a pic of the back of the board and top left and right angles.
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Old 12-15-15, 10:35 PM
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What I posted is not what you have... sorry.

What is the part number on the board ?
 
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Old 12-15-15, 10:38 PM
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That is not an edge pin connection model.
 
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Old 12-15-15, 10:42 PM
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I know..... it's a style I haven't seen and it's not listed as a board for that furnace.
Hopefully the board number will help.
 
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Old 12-15-15, 10:43 PM
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Here is a picture of the board sticker.

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Old 12-15-15, 11:01 PM
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Ok...been looking over the board. Do you have a soldering iron and rosin core (electronic solder) ?

I thought you may have a bad relay but that board is known for a few bad solder connections. If you can't resolder them.... you'll need to replace it.
 
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Old 12-15-15, 11:03 PM
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I do but would be very hesitant to start down that road without having a confirmed theory on the lack of ignitor function. What do you have in mind?
 
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Old 12-15-15, 11:26 PM
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Are the solder points on the back as I pictured or on the other side? Will you be able to exactly identify the solder points for me and could they be tested first?
 
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Old 12-15-15, 11:27 PM
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There are some points that need to be resoldered. The two resistors are the key connections. The square blue box is the relay. The yellow box is the igniter jack. That's 8 points to be soldered.

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I tried to upload to photobucket for a bigger picture but the site is temporarily awol.
This picture is not your board.

You just may need to solder the two resistors. They supply power to the relays. They may not look bad.... trust me... they are.
 
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Old 12-15-15, 11:29 PM
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Are there other simpler things to check before soldering or board replacement? Is there in fact an ignitor relay and can it be tested? Could the manual reset switches be bad or causing the issue? Can the solder joints or what they connect to be tested for continuity first?
 

Last edited by unclerandy69; 12-15-15 at 11:32 PM. Reason: addition
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Old 12-15-15, 11:33 PM
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What I drew a blue box around is the igniter relay. It's sealed.... cannot be tested without power.

If ANY of the limits or safeties are open or defective.... there will not be gas flow.
 
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Old 12-15-15, 11:50 PM
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So do we have near positive ID on the problem? There was another thread with nearly the same symptoms and a new main limit switch fixed the issue.
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/ga...igniter.html#b
 
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Old 12-16-15, 12:30 AM
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I'm just about out for the night. I have like 30 threads I'm working on.

I'll repeat it again.... if any limits are open.... you will not get any gas.
I started reading that thread but there were too many cooks in the kitchen there.

If you feel it's a limit switch.... take an ohmmeter and check them. They should show continuity... close to 0 ohms.
 
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Old 12-16-15, 12:35 AM
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Ok i really appreciate your time and expertise!! If I decide to go the route of a new board can you tell me what the current part number would be and the cheapest place to possibly get it? Is it ok to use the ICM replacement unit or stick with OEM? Thanks again honestly appreciated!
 
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Old 12-16-15, 12:46 AM
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The ICM should be ok. Just use the part number from your old module as a reference.
Shop around for prices. I get parts at a supply house which doesn't help you.
 
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Old 12-16-15, 02:24 PM
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Board replaced. All is working now. Thanks for the help! I learned a lot and should I have issues in the future I will have a much better idea of what to look for and test.
 
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Old 12-16-15, 07:19 PM
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Great news.... you're welcome.
 
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Old 12-16-15, 07:23 PM
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My AC guy got the Carrier Bryant 325878-751. Charged me 190.00 for the board and 160.00 to install. $350 total. I was hoping not to spend that much but I guess it could have been worse. Thanks again.
 
 

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