Furnace won't light 3 blinks

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  #1  
Old 12-19-15, 03:19 PM
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Furnace won't light 3 blinks

Furnace unit model
XYF80060AU3-AA
SERIAL#
WFNM024689
GAS Furnace installed in 2004
When I call for heat nothing happens and I get 3 blinks (pressure switch open)
Checked switch there was some build up and i removed it with a thin nail. Call for heat again and same thing. Inducer motor is not turning on. Also if i set thermostat to fan on the blower motor is not coming on.

Any help is greatly appreciated! I've been sitting in front of this thing for an hour but have to go to work now. I'll be checking this thread but won't be in front of the furnace again until morning.
 
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  #2  
Old 12-19-15, 03:49 PM
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If the inducer blower doesn't come on then yes you will get that code .Make sure the control board is sending 120V to the inducer.
 
  #3  
Old 12-19-15, 03:56 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

Looks like it might be a York furnace. Some of those draft inducers have an outside round black fan for cooling the motor. If yours does.... see if it turns by hand.
 
  #4  
Old 12-19-15, 04:28 PM
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Thanks for the quick replies. The inducer motor is not seized, it turns freely by hand.
I will check the voltage when i get out of work. I just have to figure out how to work my multimeter.
 
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Old 12-19-15, 05:06 PM
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If you have questions.... post the model number of the meter.

If digital.... just set to AC volts. The rest is automatic.
If analog... set to the next scale over what the expected voltage would be. Since it's 120vac .... set the meter for 150vac or 200vac and then you can set it lower.

Don't use the DC amps or AC amps or ohms settings with voltage testing.
 
  #6  
Old 12-20-15, 08:53 AM
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OK, so I unhooked the draft motor and tested Voltage at those terminals. Voltage reads 102 on the meter.
 

Last edited by Random1; 12-20-15 at 08:55 AM. Reason: Typos
  #7  
Old 12-20-15, 10:38 AM
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I know it's supposed to get 120v from the board so i checked my meter in an outlet. It read 95v. Maybe the battery is low in the multimeter. Does this mean I need to replace the motor? I don't want to spend money on parts if that's not the problem.
 
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Old 12-20-15, 10:45 AM
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You may need a new battery.

You can do one further test. The inducer blower is connected with two wires. Set your meter to the ohms scale. Touch the leads together. The meter should indicate continuity or a short. Now connect those two leads to the motor plug. If nothing happens.... the motor is confirmed as having an open winding and is defective.
 
  #9  
Old 12-20-15, 10:56 AM
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I'll try that now. But I'm not sure I understand your directions.
 
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Old 12-20-15, 11:14 AM
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Which part don't you understand..... setting the meter, where to check the motor or understanding what the meter says ?
 
  #11  
Old 12-20-15, 11:30 AM
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Seeing the meter and how to read it.
 
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Old 12-20-15, 11:31 AM
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Can you post the make and model of the meter for me ?
 
  #13  
Old 12-20-15, 11:34 AM
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Cen-tech 7 function digital multimeter.
Item 90899 at harbor freight.
 
  #14  
Old 12-20-15, 11:51 AM
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I highlighted the ohms section for you. For this test you'll be using the lowest setting which is 200 Ω. I put an orange X across the top test cable port. You will most likely never use that port for general testing.

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Also..... the meter should have been in the ACV 200 position at the top of the meter for reading 120v volts.
 
  #15  
Old 12-20-15, 12:19 PM
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The reading I get when I cross the leads on the meter is -1. When i put the leads on the motor terminal still -1. My wife is on her way home with a new battery.
 
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Old 12-20-15, 01:18 PM
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Some show -1 ....others show blinking zeros. If you didn't see any change when shorting the two leads together.... you have a meter/leads problem.

A new battery could also cure the issue if it the old one is really old.
 
  #17  
Old 12-20-15, 01:19 PM
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New battery installed and the meter still reads 1 when I cross the leads. I think I need a new meter.
 
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Old 12-20-15, 01:24 PM
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Try this.... unplug the black lead from the meter. Put the red lead tip into the black hole. Does it read anything now ?

Try the same with the black probe.

A common problem is a probe wire breaking.

I've actually cut a probe end off of my cables during testing to finish the job.
 
  #19  
Old 12-20-15, 01:35 PM
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I tried that with the red and black leads and still reading -1.
 
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Old 12-20-15, 01:37 PM
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That would leave a meter problem then. You could try the next scale up.... 2000 Ω
 
  #21  
Old 12-20-15, 01:42 PM
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Ugh...I have to go to work again now. I think I'll go out in the morning and buy a new meter. Hopefully I can get this fixed tomorrow. Thankfully its not typical December weather here in Buffalo.
 
  #22  
Old 12-21-15, 06:07 AM
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OK I'm back at it. Thank you for the help so far. I bought a new multimeter. When i cross the leads I get .03 reading. When I touch the motor contacts It reads 1. So from what you said that means the motor is bad. Also yesterday before I knew my meter was bad, I tried to test voltage from the board again. I think I may have had it set on DC accidently. When I put a call for heat I heard a pop. I just tested it again with the new meter. No voltage. I fear that may have blown the control board.
 

Last edited by Random1; 12-21-15 at 06:35 AM.
  #23  
Old 12-21-15, 08:42 AM
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So I guess the next step is the replace both the motor and the control board? Should I remove them and bring the parts with me to the supply house?
 
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Old 12-21-15, 09:26 AM
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Did you buy the same meter ?
If you did..... did you put a probe in the hole I had the orange X thru ?
 
  #25  
Old 12-21-15, 12:10 PM
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I bought a a different meter. This one's a GE. I believe I tested everything correctly this time. I may have been the reason the old one is broken. I also unplugged the leads from the board and tested end to end for continuity. The wires came up .05 and .06. What should I do next?
 
  #26  
Old 12-21-15, 05:09 PM
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So I guess the next step is the replace both the motor and the control board? Should I remove them and bring the parts with me to the supply house?
 
  #27  
Old 12-22-15, 12:58 AM
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You checked earlier and found 95v going out to the motor. Did you recheck that ?

If you don't have the 120vAC when you should have then the board has a problem.
Did you check the inducer motor for continuity ? If it doesn't show continuity..... any meter movement or indication in the ohms mode..... then it's bad.
 
  #28  
Old 12-22-15, 01:26 AM
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I checked the motor for continuity and it showed non. I rechecked the board for voltage and nothing there either.
 
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Old 12-22-15, 01:30 AM
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Looks like you'll be needing both. They both don't usually go bad at the same time. You can bring the old parts with you but a supplier will need to full model number and the serial number.
 
  #30  
Old 12-22-15, 01:33 AM
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Model and serial number of the furnace? Or of the parts? If those numbers aren't on the parts I'm not sure where to find them.
 
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Old 12-22-15, 01:50 AM
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There is an ID tag inside the furnace..... on the side.... near the burner.
 
  #32  
Old 12-22-15, 01:52 AM
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OK, I've got those numbers. Thank you for all the help! I'll update after the install and let you know how it goes.
 
  #33  
Old 12-22-15, 06:10 AM
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Of course the parts have to be ordered. Should be in Christmas eve.
 
  #34  
Old 12-22-15, 11:49 AM
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<<I checked the motor for continuity and it showed non. I rechecked the board for voltage and nothing there either.>>


Ummm. Personally, I'd connect the motor to 120VAC outside of the furnace and see if it operates OK. Especially with an expensive part....

Being thorough is the mark of a good repairman.
 
  #35  
Old 12-22-15, 02:55 PM
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OK, so I got a call from the supplier saying my parts were in. Picked them up and installed them this afternoon. Took the furnace through a heating cycle, and everything worked beautifully! P Jmax thank you so much for your help with all this! Merry Christmas!!
 
  #36  
Old 12-22-15, 04:25 PM
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You are very welcome. Name:  xmas_big grin.gif
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SP left you some advice. If you haven't ditched the motor.... try carefully connecting 120v to it.
On the off chance it worked..... it could be a spare.
 
  #37  
Old 12-22-15, 04:34 PM
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I still have it. It would be good to have a spare. Thanks again guys.
 
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