York Diamond 80: no fire and blower noise

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Old 01-09-16, 02:52 PM
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York Diamond 80: no fire and blower noise

I found an older thread on this but it wouldn't let me add on. I've got a 16 year old furnace that started to make a weird noise when the blower fan kicked on. As the days when by it got louder so I figured it was the bearing in the motor so I ordered a replacement and installed it today. The squirrel cage hub was good and tight before I removed it and the mounts were in great shape and tight so I thought once I turned it back on that the motor was the issue but I still have the same buzzing noise while the blower runs. The cage was very clean and I saw one blade balancer in place and not visible damage to the cage at all and no scratches. Could the cage be out of balance? If I buy a replacement, will it be balanced?
 
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Old 01-09-16, 07:45 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

You can run the motor and wheel outside of the housing to see if the wheel is bent or out of balance.

What do you hear..... a grinding or rubbing noise.... a squealing ?
 
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Old 01-10-16, 06:13 AM
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I can spin the cage freely and hear nothing. No rubbing, grinding or squeal. It's the same noise that I had before I replaced the blower motor but it only happens when the blower motor kicks on. I pulled the blower assembly out and looked up to see if something was hanging down but everything was clear. I am now having issues with my unit not firing. When I flip the switch the blower starts immediately but the inducer doesn't start blowing. I have no blinking light on my control panel and it tried to cycle properly this morning but the blower kicked on before the igniter started to glow.

Crazy chain of events and it's chilly in the mid-west this morning.
 
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Old 01-10-16, 09:41 AM
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Some systems will run the blower for 90 seconds on power up as a system check.
It could also take that long for the board to get set for normal operation.
 
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Old 01-10-16, 12:58 PM
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I decided to pull the control box off to check the circuit board and everything looked normal, no popped caps or fried resistors, again only visual. Put it back together and nothing would happen except that I would get one flash on the led. I turn my unit off and turned on just the fan and now my buzzing rattle nose from my blower stopped. I heard an odd pop after the fan started and then the noise stopped making the noise. My AC will kickon and blow cold by fan only will work but no furnace. Will the inducer motor get 24v when you first flip the switch? I'm running out of ideas.
 
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Old 01-10-16, 01:07 PM
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Usually the inducer motor is 120 VAC, not low voltage.
 
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Old 01-10-16, 01:56 PM
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If you leave me the full model number I can look into it further. The model number can be found inside on an ID tag near the burner.
 
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Old 01-10-16, 02:01 PM
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P3HUC16N09201C

It ran for about 2 hours after I replace the motor but when it cycled it wouldn't fire again. Thanks for your help. It's going to be a chilly night.
 
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Old 01-11-16, 06:31 AM
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I'm getting 4v across the quick disconnect plug going to the inducer fan. To recap, my noise is gone but so is my heat.
 
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Old 01-11-16, 07:04 AM
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One other item- When I turn on the unit, the LED flashes just once and then turns off. No other flashes.
 
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Old 01-11-16, 04:38 PM
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Should I jump a wire to test the inducer or is there another way to test it? I'll also check the high limit switch again tonight. I pulled it and tapped it but didn't check the resistance. I'll also try jumping the wires to see if this will get it to go thru the proper sequence.
 
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Old 01-11-16, 05:34 PM
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I think that there is a blade type fuse on the control board. If so, check that it is not blown.

If you are using a digital rather than analog meter, the 4 v equals no voltage.
 
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Old 01-11-16, 07:14 PM
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Latest update-

Checked voltage at the quick connect going to the inducer motor and after startup about 5 seconds I get 120V. The main blower is starting first and then the inducer kicks in later and only run at a low speed for a few seconds. I disconnected the inducer and ran 120V to it directly and it runs fine and as normal. I check my resistance on the Air Pressure switch and couldn't get continuity so I jumped the wires to bypass it and it didn't have any change. The high limit switch has resistance of .1 ohms so that's not the issue. I've pressed all 7 limit switches.

I'm still puzzled why switching the motor cause all of this to spiral down hill. I have no more blower noise but when it kicks on I get at least two jolts a few seconds apart when the blower is running. If someone wants to call me so they can hear what I'm hearing, please PM me for my #.

I would think that the Air Pressure Switch is bad but even if I put a vacuum on the tube to open and close the switch I still have no continuity.
 
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Old 01-11-16, 07:36 PM
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Just checked the voltage at the high limit switch and 51.8mv, is this normal?
 
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Old 01-12-16, 08:50 AM
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York Diamond 80 Furnace Not Firing

I couldn't edit my prior thread title but I now have a new issue.

My project started with a furnace that was working fine but the blower was making a noise that I thought was a bearing going bad. I replaced the motor but the same noise continued. Upon start up my unit wouldn't go through the proper start up sequence but I put my foot on the blower housing (don't know why)and it then caused it to sit more flush with the furnace assembly. It then cycled properly and fired normally. As a temporary fix I wedged a board below the housing to keep it tight against the furnace. My blower housing is seated properly in the slide track.

After a the unit ran and cycled off the unit wouldn't refire. My inducer fan is working as I jumped 120v to it directly and it worked perfect. I checked the 7 limit switches and pressed all the reset buttons. Not sure if I checked the air pressure sensor properly but I checked the resistance with and without a vacuum and had no continuity. I jumped a wire across the wires and it had no effect. I've checked the high limit switch and have .1 ohm resistance across it.


I have no flashing codes but when I power up the furnance the blower starts immediately and about 5 seconds later the inducer starts to spin slowly but stops a few seconds later.

What other test should I run or check?
 
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Old 01-12-16, 10:09 AM
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I combined your threads. I'm trying to find a wiring diagram for your furnace as I'm lost without it.

You should find info about the flashing codes on the back of the blower door.

Just checked the voltage at the high limit switch and 51.8mv, is this normal?
You should be checking from the C connection at the thermostat wiring location or possibly to ground. The limit loop should be 24vac throughout.

We may need you to take a BIG picture of the furnace wiring and post it for us. It would need to be hosted on a site like photobucket. Info here... http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html
 
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Old 01-12-16, 11:34 AM
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Thanks for combining the threads. I'll take a pic tonight and post.
 
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Old 01-12-16, 05:54 PM
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Last edited by Firering; 01-12-16 at 06:17 PM.
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Old 01-12-16, 06:01 PM
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Old 01-12-16, 06:04 PM
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Old 01-12-16, 06:09 PM
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Old 01-12-16, 06:53 PM
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Correction Ok so here are my pics of the wiring diagram. I checked continuity again thru my air pressure sensor and it's working properly. I pulled the high limit switch and its tripping and reseting properly. I put my meter probes across the high limit switch when the unit is running and am getting 26vac. I checked continuity across terminal 1 & 7 and 1 & 10 and have a complete circuit. I checked my v at the transformer and am getting 26 vac

One other thing that happen when it trip the switch is that my blower kicks on at top speed and then about 4 seconds later it pops like its shutting off for a millisecond and then kicks back at top speed and stays consistent speed.
 

Last edited by Firering; 01-12-16 at 07:29 PM.
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Old 01-12-16, 07:00 PM
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Check from R to ground. You should have 24vac. If not there is a 3A fuse shown.
 
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Old 01-12-16, 07:17 PM
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Updated previous meter readings. I was checking for DC and not AC.

Just measure it and am getting 26 vac
 
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Old 01-13-16, 07:30 AM
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https://youtu.be/xLYIr8otI3I

Here's a video to listen to my blower fan turn off and on but still no heat cycle
 
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Old 01-13-16, 07:36 AM
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Old 01-13-16, 07:40 AM
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Old 01-13-16, 07:43 AM
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Old 01-13-16, 08:28 AM
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Put your meter set for AC across the pressure switch. It should read 24vac. On a call for heat, the inducer should start up and that 24vac should drop to 0v and stay that way. If it doesn't stay at 0v the board interprets that as an inducer failure.
 
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Old 01-13-16, 09:55 AM
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PJ-

Thanks for the reply. I can't check it until tonight but if I get 24vac at start up and then zero, what would be the next troubleshoot? I had checked the continuity across the Air Pressure Sensor and it worked properly and I also put 120v to the inducer motor and it was working properly.
 
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Old 01-13-16, 11:10 AM
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Things have to operate in a logical order...

Call for heat.
Inducer starts running.
A few seconds later the pressure switch closes and must stay closed.
Ignition timing starts.
Igniter heats for 30 seconds.
Gas valve opens, burner lights, igniter turns off
Flame sensor checks for flame and keeps burner active.

I'll look over the diagram and see if there's anything you missed.
 
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Old 01-13-16, 06:08 PM
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Ok starting from scratch-
THermostat -Heat Fan-Auto
Current temp 58 Desired temp 68

I hear the click from the thermostat when turning on heat setting.

Furnace does nothing, no inducer fan or blower fan

Air Pressure is receiving 27.68vac but doesn't drop
High Limit Switch is receiving 20.8 mv
Inducer is getting 4.89vac
R to ground is 27vac

Previous readings in threads I had my Fan in the on position on the thermostat
 

Last edited by Firering; 01-13-16 at 06:44 PM.
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Old 01-13-16, 07:22 PM
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If you have not checked the three amp blade type fuse on the control board, check it for continuity.
If it is good, pop the cover on your thermostat and bridge the R and W terminals with a piece of wire while the thermostat is calling for heat. Assuming the wiring is good at the furnace, this will check out the stat.
 
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Old 01-13-16, 07:24 PM
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No blade fuse on the IFC. I have an inline fuse and its good.

I jumped R and W at the IFC and get nothing do I need to pull my thermostat?
 
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Old 01-13-16, 09:59 PM
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I jumped R and W at the IFC and get nothing do I need to pull my thermostat?
No. If you connect the W and R together at the control board and nothing happens then you have a control board failure.

You confirmed you had 24vac from R to ground. That means the board is getting 24vac.
As soon as you short the W and R together..... the draft inducer should start. You should get 120vac to that motor.

Post the part number from the control board for me. I could see 50A50-2XX in your video.

We seem to be going in circles here. You left a video with the inducer running and now it isn't ?

On the control box is a red LED and a legend. What is it doing ?
Have you confirmed 120v on the board ?
Is the polarity correct.... hot and neutral..... I know you had the board out.
 

Last edited by PJmax; 01-13-16 at 10:50 PM.
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Old 01-14-16, 06:25 AM
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Sorry about the circles. I had my thermostat in fan on position thats why it ran in the video.

White Rodgers 50A50-241
Red light comes on when I first give the unit power and then turns off.

In the video, that was my blower kicking in immediately with no initial sequence starting. In the fan on mode the inducer runs slow at the beginning but stops after a few seconds. Not sure if the blower is causing it to spin or not. But I'm only getting 4vac to the inducer.

Yes I've got 120 at the board and polarity is correct. Brown to hot line and White to neutral line.

In the video can you hear my blower jolt/start/stop and then continue to run at full speed?

Should I replace the cap as a precaution?
 

Last edited by Firering; 01-14-16 at 08:52 AM.
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Old 01-14-16, 03:06 PM
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I went ahead and ordered an IFC and a run capacitor just in case. It's been really cold this week in St Louis and need some heat. Any other troubleshooting items I can try?
 

Last edited by Firering; 01-14-16 at 04:15 PM.
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Old 01-14-16, 06:15 PM
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I think what's making this a little confusing is that we don't always know which blower you are referring to. The blower is the main one inside the furnace. The one on the front is the draft inducer blower or inducer for short.

You confirmed you had 120vac power of the proper polarity on the board and that your 24vac transformer was good and you had 24vac on the board. You also connected W to R to directly trigger the board.

That leaves a bad board. Even if there was a limit open or a bad inducer motor..... you would get diagnostic LED flashes.
 
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Old 01-15-16, 09:09 AM
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My apologies but I thought I identified my comments in all my threads between blower vs. inducer. I'll agree that I wasn't clear that I had my thermostat set to fan on in the earlier threads. I should have my new IFC on Saturday and will post the results.

What I'm still curious on is the noise that I once had that has now gone away when I run just the fan (blower). Could the IFC board have been causing the rattle,buzz noise? Just for kicks I'm going to put my old blower motor back in and see if anything works differently and will post the results.

Thanks again for all the help on my issues and patience with my confusing post.
 
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Old 01-15-16, 10:01 AM
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I doubt that the board had anything to do with the blower. The board either supplies 120v or it doesn't.
 
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