Hey guys I have a 13 year old payne furnace that started giving me problems. It stopped working last week. I noticed the ignitor had a break in it so I replaced it, now the furnace will run one cycle then trip off on code 34. One thing I notice is that when the furnace is running the ignitor stays energized. Is this correct? Or is the ignitor supposed to trip off after burner is lit? Also the ignitor is NOT energized when the furnace is NOT running. I also removed and clean the flame sensor with emery cloth and blew out condensation drain. I'm Thanks for any help. ..

 

Give us the model number...should be on a label inside the upper cabinet. This is a hot surface igniter?

 

Here is a picture of the model number and a picture of the HSI when the furnace is running. It is hard to see the burners firing in the picture, but they are.. the only time HSI de energies is when the furnace turns off (room reaches temp) thanks for any help...

 

Code 34 is a secondary code... "failed to light in three attempts".
You would get a different code.... like 14.... before that.
You need to watch the entire process until it fails.

The igniter warms up..... the gas valve opens..... the flame should light and the igniter should turn off in a few seconds. Some igniters turn off as soon as gas valve opens.

If you igniter stays active the entire time the burner is lit suggests a control board issue.

With a model number I could tell for sure.

 

PG9MAA036080

Here is the manual for your furnace.

hvac partners/docs/1009/Public/02/IM-PG9M-10.pdf

The complete heating operation is described on page 56.
Payne has a module and testing diagnostic routine that can be used on page 57.

 

Yes I read the manual and it states the HSI is supposed to go out after flame is established. I also ran the payne diagnosis run on page 57 and all seamed good.. I also did a pressure switch test... reset furnace and HSI is still staying energized when furnace is running. I would think that the flame sensor is supposed to send a message to the board to turn the HSI off... maybe it is my board? Thanks for the manual and info

 

Your description of what is happening is too vague.


Since the hot surface ignitor heats up, the pressure switch is closed.


The HSI should heat up for thirty seconds or so and then the main burner gas should turn on and the main burners should light off the HSI.

At pretty much the same time, the HSI should shut off after completing a certain number of seconds being energized.


You say the HSI stays on ---- that shouldn't be happening and is likely caused by a bad ignition control module that needs to be replaced.

IS the main burner gas turning on? If it is, do the main burners light?

I'm guessing that the main burners are NOT lighting. If that's correct, it could be because of a bad gas valve or because the ignition control module isn't turning on the 24 VAC to open the main burner gas.

You need to use a multimeter (AC Voltmeter) across the electric gas valve connections to determine whether the 24 VAC is being turned on.


The odds are that the ignition module is bad again. But it could be a bad gas valve, so you need to check it.

 

I hate to just replace control boards but I can't think of anything else that could keep the igniter active. If the flame sensor wasn't working properly it would shut the burner down.

 

Is it possible to detect a bad board by discoloration or burnt evidence on board? Thanks

 

Yes "Seattle pioneer " the main burners ARE firing good.. but the HSI is staying active for as long as the furnace (main burners ) take to reach t stat setting. I will check gas valve reading. When you say control module, you are referring to main circuit board correct? Thanks for your help

 

Since the igniter does shut off at the completion of a call for heat..... that would tell me that the board doesn't have a physically visible problem but a logic problem.

 

Just tested and I get 24 v on gas valve when furnace is running.

 

Yes that makes sense PJmax ..

 

Just took a better look at the board and there is a burn mark..for some reason it won't allow me to upload a picture but it is definitely burnt..

 

If your picture is too large you'll need to have it hosted and linked here.
Read this.... http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html

 

I think I have to delete my other pictures I posted in previous post before I post anymore but i don't know how... if this makes sense ... BTW I am using a cell phone to post pictures thanks

 

I checked..... you have plenty of storage room left here at DIY for pics. Your pics are either too large or you have a pic loader issue. I sent you a private message.

 

Yup.... those two relays are igniter and draft inducer. If the board isn't physically damaged and you have a soldering iron they can be replaced. I'd replace both of them. The carbon can be cleaned from the board with rubbing/isopropyl alcohol and an old toothbrush.



I have a direct account with Mouser but they sell to the public with no minimum order.
T77V1D10-24 TE Connectivity / P&B | Mouser

TE-CONNECTIVITY-POTTER-BRUMFIELD-T77V1D10-24/dp/B011NB3F2Y

 

What would cause those relays to blow? And are they avilible at a heating shop? Thanks for your help much appreciated. ..

 

One internally wore out.

The official recommendation is to replace the board..... therefore they will not be available locally.

 

Hey guys I bought a OEM replacement board part # 325878-751 the guy at the store told me I would have to use the new supplied wiring harness.. now that I an trying to install the new board and it seams impossible to use the new harness without cutting wires... but I am pretty sure the new board will hook directly up to my existing furnace wiring... any thoughts thanks

 

Can't really help you with that. Updated/revised parts are a common fact of life in doing furnace repairs.

A repairman needs to be able to understand how to adapt a new part to a piece of equipment in front of him fairly often.

That might involve understanding what connections need to be made to make the new part work.


You might also shop around on the internet to see if the old part is available to purchase someplace. Often you can Google the old part number and come up with various sources of supply.

Possibly the clerk at the place where you bought the part can help you, but usually they don't have that depth of experience.


Sorry I can't be more help.

 

Yes... the board will replace your old one and yes you will have to cut and splice wires as the connecting plugs are different.

I was just looking at the instructions for yours. It looks your old board is a newer style board. There should be supplied adapter cables for the conversion.

 

I got the board hooked up, it connected directly to my existing wiring... but guess what? I have another problem.
It seams like the gas valve is sticking. Somtimes the burners fire on the 3rd try. And if not I gave the valve a tap with a screw driver and it fires.. one it's running it seams to run good... I tested the valve and I got 24v. Is there a way I can have the valve serviced, or replace? Thanks

 

A sticking gas valve would just get replaced. That's one thing that never gets rebuilt.

 

Is there a way to confirm sticky gas valve? Pressure test?
Thanks

 

If you had to tap on it to get it to work..... it's got a problem.

The WORST thing you can have happen is a sticky gas valve get stuck open.

 

Somthing I did notice is that my ignitor (witch I installed lastweek) looked like it was tilted away from the burner so I losened the ignitor screw and slightly tilted the ignitor towards the burner and the furnace has been starting and stopping as it should.. but yes I don't want to mess around with a bad gas valve... thanks

 

Make sure the contacts on the valve are clean and that the wire terminals are also clean. You can spray the wire terminals with a little contact cleaner and slide them on and off a few times.

It's not uncommon for the inside of the terminal to not make good electrical connection to the valve.

 

I will try that thank you. ..

 

Well I ended up replacing the gas valve and it seamed to do the trick, it's been running good for 24 hours... one question should I have the gas valve checked to make sure the gas pressure is within specs, or just leave it? Thanks

 

If the valve was specifically listed for your furnace you should be ok..... unless the instructions specify setting the pressure.

If you plan on having the furnace professionally cleaned in the future.... have it checked then.

 

Ok.... thank you very much for the advice and help....