Igniter will not get hot enough on first try but will on second

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Old 03-04-16, 05:40 PM
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Igniter will not get hot enough on first try but will on second

Goodman GMNT080-4 hot surface igniter will not ignite the gas on first try. Then on second try it will ignite the gas.
This happens every time I have watched it and that is about 8 times over the past 3 days. I have put in another igniter (not original style) and same thing happens.
On the first try it seems just to be red hot and on the second try it will get white hot. and on the second try there is still a delay of about 5 seconds from when the gas valve opens and it ignites. There fore it is not a "smooth" ignition. It Poofs (for lack of a technical term) when it ignites.
No the board is not flashing any lights
Thank you
 
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Old 03-04-16, 06:59 PM
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I'm assuming this is a new issue on an old (relatively, not very newly installed is what I mean by old) by you not saying its a new install.

So it's obvious to me that the ignitor is getting voltage, I've seen them light a flame without being as hot as they can get. It sounds like either a draft or a gas pressure issue. Check your intake and exhaust for any obstructions.

Do you have LP (propane) or natural gas?
 
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Old 03-04-16, 07:07 PM
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I just got the place and this is the first winter. I watched a video that said that the second try would have extended time for the hot surface igniter to run to reduce lock outs. This seems to be my case. Yes I will have to dig deeper and I will look for obstructions first thing. Thank you for replying. It is natural gas
 
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Old 03-04-16, 07:46 PM
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You know, depending on the type of ignitor they put it, it could just react differently to the control's timing. For example, the ignitor went out, service guy came out and put in whatever one he had in his truck that had a thicker element, so it takes longer for it to get hot. They used to make those things thin as hell, and service guys abuse their trucks and the stuff in it when they're working, and they break really easily. Well, now they make them a lot larger and thicker so they aren't getting ruined. You'll see what I mean if you google "hot surface ignitor" and see how different some of them are, the thinner ones are the older styles. If you really wanted to, you could track down one of those thinner ones, but that's totally up to you. I would say if it's not locking out, that you might just be curious, if so I hope you don't go busting anything, haha.
 
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Old 03-04-16, 09:56 PM
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I agree that different igniters react differently. The OP stated that he tried a different igniter with the same issue.

You could time the warm up time and see if it is changing. Some boards have adaptive timing that changes the preheat time. Also make sure the holes where the gas comes out near the igniter are clean and not clogged with rust.
 
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Old 03-05-16, 07:10 AM
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When I moved in there was an old inducer fan on the floor and inside the cabinet there was 2 old ....um...pressure diaphram switchs...The thing that measures the induced draft.
So I am wondering if he was having trouble with it and was thinking airflow??

I will time the sequences and post it. To me, the HSI is not on too long before the gas valve opens.
I will get back to you tomorrow with some times

The only concern is a faint smell of gas when its really cold out. I suspect from the gas valve opening and not being ignited.
But I would have thought that the forced draft would expel all the gas up the flue

Thanks for the suggestions
 
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Old 03-05-16, 02:19 PM
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I would be suspicious that the hot surface ignitor isn't getting the 120 volts needed to get it hot enough to light the gas reliably.

The circuit board turns on the voltage for the HSI, and if the relay on the circuit board is worn out, you may get a poor voltage.

So use a multimeter to measure the AC voltage being applied to the HSI.
 
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