Goodman furnace issue

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  #1  
Old 03-20-16, 10:54 PM
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Question Goodman furnace issue

I live in a decrepit old house with (what seems to be) a decrepit old Goodman furnace. I rent my home, so I should not even be up typing this in the wee hours of the night, but my landlord is currently MIA after just having had surgery, so here I am...typing this with my nose, as my extremities froze hours ago. Hoping someone can just tell me what's going on or even just suggest which way to turn.

Problem:

I turn on my thermostat (new batteries, BTW) to call for heat. I rush upstairs to the cold dark attic to observe the process. I immedoately hear a smaller motor/fan turn on and begin running. Then the glow stick glows orange. 8-10 seconds later all 4 of the burners "whoosh" and fire up with a strong blue flame, followed with a big motor/fan beginning to run and heat coming out of my vents.

...But this is where it all goes downhill.

...by the time I pat myself on the back and walk back downstairs and get comfortable (3-4 minutes)...you can hear the gas kick off. The blue flame goes out, and the smaller motor runs for about a minute longer before everything shuts down completely. This has been happening for 3 days now. If I immediately try to turn it back on at the thermostat it either won't do anything at all, or it will try to start up 2-3 times before doing nothing (locking out is what it's called I think?). At which point I unplug it for a while and then try again with the same cycle repeating itself all over again.

So far I have:

1. changed the filter.

2. Replaced the old flame sensor (about 8 weeks ago).

3. Cleaned the new flame sensor with fine grade steel wool & wiped clean with a microfiber cloth (just in case)

4. Unplugged it, waited a couple hours, and then plugged it back in.

5. jiggled some wires (desperate times and all).

6. Talked to both Jesus AND Satan, and pledged loyalty to whoever could make it work first.

...still nothing. It ran one time today for an hour and a half, and then once again this afternoon for almost 15 minutes, then turned off and didn't try to restart after. Other than those 2 occasions, it has short cycled all weekend, running 3-4 min at a time, followed by a couple failed attempts to restart, then quitting altogether & my house temp hasn't gotten above 64 degrees. I'm at a loss. Everything I have researched indicates the flame sensor but not only is this one barely 2 months old, I've also cleaned it. I had this exact problem with this unit right after Christmas and after replacing the flame sensor and jiggling some wires, it has worked fine since. Until now. Any thoughts??

Oh, and I will attempt to post pics of the unit in hopes that anyone can see a possible model #. I can find NOTHING. I believe it faded and peeled off, as I can see a little residue of paper from where it probably should have been.

It's a probably a lost cause to post with so little info or experience but I appreciate anyone's advice. Thanks.

Signed,
Sleepless (and cold) in Tennessee

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Last edited by PJmax; 03-21-16 at 01:00 AM. Reason: enhanced/reoriented/labeled pics
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  #2  
Old 03-20-16, 11:54 PM
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Plot twist- just sat and watched the entire cycle after taking off the bottom panel (to see the LED) and noticed that the light stayed red the whole time it was running, but did a "continuous flash" as soon as the system shut down. I looked this up for Goodman furnaces and it says this means there's a "reverse polarity/ 115 VAC AC". ..what on earth does this mean and how would the unit still run for a few minutes at a time if this is truly the problem? ..I only jiggled the lines my landlord told me to last time (I swear)..and he's an HVAC tech lol.
 
  #3  
Old 03-21-16, 01:10 AM
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Welcome to the forums.

In your first picture I added a red arrow that points to the ID plate where you'll find the model number. The yellow arrow is the sight glass where you can look thru and see the fault LED.

I realize you may be cold but your are a renter there and are liable if something happens with you messing with the furnace.

I don't think you get that code after the furnace is running. I believe it occurs on power up.
It could possibly be a loose ground wire or bad ground to the furnace.
Running 3-4 minutes at a time should be setting a high heat limit fault code.
It sounds like the heater is overheating due to lack of airflow.

With a model number we could be of more help.
 
  #4  
Old 03-21-16, 03:01 PM
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<<6. Talked to both Jesus AND Satan, and pledged loyalty to whoever could make it work first. >>


Heh, heh!


<< this means there's a "reverse polarity/ 115 VAC AC". >>


Often this means that the ignition control module is no good and needs to be replaced. But you really need to eliminate any other problem before replacing the expensive ignition control.


In particular, you need to check to see if the furnace is overheating and causing the burners to shut off. You need a multimeter to see if the 24 VAC to the limit switch is being shut off if the switch is opening.

The limit switch is the part with the red label above the burners.
 
  #5  
Old 01-03-17, 12:44 AM
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A reverse polarity is even though you have alternating current, some one wired your appliance with the neutral and the line power. In other words almost all 110 volt appliances will run if you plug them in either way but thats dangerous because you can back feed the line power through the ground and weird painful things can happen. Shocks from your sink etc, Thats why now a days you see a plug with 2 different sized blades. Like I said most things will run but theres danger of shock and fire so a many appliances can sense this and shut down before a catastrophe happens. It might not be that appliance either. It can be one of any appliance working in that circuit, Same thing a back feed of live power, Hardware stores have inexpensive receptacle sensors that test that exact problem Thats another reason wet areas gace GFI receptacles GROUND FAULT interrupt . I played guitar in several bands in the 60s and 70s where mostly amps have no third ground leg and both blades were the same. If you had a Fender tube amp they gad a switch in the back that reversed polarity. Because you could have a lot of line hum or much worse, Your PA amplifier had its cord plugged in 180 degrees from your guitar amp. More than once (i only sang background) my lips would touch the metal wind screen while my fingers were playing the guitar and I would get a huge shock. Knocked me down once. We all got it, It took two decades for me to learn why. I thought I was just hot lips. Hope this helps.
 
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