Carrier 58ssb won't light....


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Old 10-09-16, 03:41 PM
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Carrier 58ssb won't light....

Hello,

A few days ago my 25 to 30 year old Carrier 58ssb wouldn't ignite, pilot would light (sparker clicked continuously) then there was a click (relay type click) and the pilot would go out.

Looking on forums this sounded like the pilot assembly was bad. I ordered a new sparker and pilot assembly and installed them today. Now the sparker acts as I expect, slows and stops sparking as the pilot light is light and runs and warms the bimetal flame sensor.... But the same thing happens, the pilot light lights, the sparker slows and stops then there is a relay type of click and the pilot light goes out, then this repeats untill I turn off the furnace

I noticed that alot of forum posts state the induction motor should be running either when the pilot light starts or that it starts when the burner starts, my induction fan isn't turning at all.

I would really prefer to not have to call a tech out and have to pay for a service call... So any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated!

Couple other things, the induction fan spins freely, and the AC works as expected.

Bill
 
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Old 10-09-16, 03:56 PM
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Check the model number again, carefully. I don't recall a Carrier model SSB.
 
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Old 10-09-16, 04:02 PM
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>


I'm guessing that perhaps the pilot is shutting off because the inducer motor isn't working and the pressure switch isn't closed or staying closed.

Use a mutimeter to observe when the pressure switch is closed and when it's open. You might have a bad pressure switch that isn't opening properly, staying closed when the inducer motor is off.

Somer Carrier furnaces that had inducer motors, pressure switch and three wire pilot had a small separate circuit board to energize the inducer motor.

An example of that that I recall was a Carrier model BAW, but there probably were others.
 
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Old 10-09-16, 04:21 PM
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Seattle pioneer thank you for the reply!

The model number is really hard to read, it is on a plaque that is on the bottom of the burner compartment at the back so I am having to try to decipher the model... It is one of the following
38ssb060-bl
58ssb060-bl
388sb060-bl
Or 588sb060-bl

Here is an image of the plaque.
https://imgur.com/4WPgHim

Also I have never worked on hvac so I am not sure where to even start to look for pressure switch... Any pointers would be great :-)
 
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Old 10-09-16, 06:05 PM
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Here's an update...

I pulled the induction motor, it is labeled as being a 115 volt motor, I hit it with 120 volts and it spun...

I tried tightening the connector for the motor, and at least sulking on the hose inlet for the pressure trigger/switch there is a click I side side at least it seems to be sensing the pressure change (I don't think this is the issue either being that the induction fan isn't coming on)...

So to me this would be something to do with the circuit that controls the induction fan? I don't think it's the pressure switch because without the fan running the switch isn't even being brought into the circuit yet...

Hmmm not sure what to look at next
 
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Old 10-09-16, 07:34 PM
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That is a 1988 furnace. I remember having issues with the harness connectors on those old things. I had to remove and clean the corroded terminal 3 on harness 10B1 more than once.

I haven't seen one of those furnaces in over 10 years.
 
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Old 10-10-16, 02:03 PM
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If it's convenient, take a couple more pictures of the burner compartment so we can see the parts used on the furnace.


From the partial view of the inducer motor in the picture, this looks like a furnace similar to a Carrier BAW furnace, which uses a Carrier three wire pilot ignition system and a small separate circuit board to control operation of the inducer motor.

Since you have verified that the inducer motor runs OK, the next thing I'd check is operation of the circuit board. You need to be able to verify that the main circuit board is energizing the inducer motor circuit board, and that the inducer motor circuit board isn't switching on the 120 volt power for the inducer motor.

Checking the edge connectors of the plugs for corrosion is a possible cause of the problem, so is a worn out relay on the inducer motor circuit board. If the inducer motor circuit board is bad, get a new one.
 
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Old 10-10-16, 02:06 PM
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As I recall, the wires for the inducer motor plugs into an edge connector on the inducer motor circuit board. That should help you locate it and verify that I am talking about the right type of furnace.
 
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Old 10-13-16, 05:26 PM
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Well sorry for the delay

It appears that water got into the furnace (not flooded but maybe came down the chimney?), the back of the control card is shorted and cooked!

I ordered a replacement board (it is a 3rd party off amazon) stated as a direct replacement for the current board.

I put the replacement board in this evening...
I transferred all wires one at a time to prevent goof ups
Verified all connections
Powered on the furnace
Pilot started up
Induction motor spun up as expected
After about 10 seconds there was a click/pop up from the board and the 3amp fuse popped
I replaced the fuse and tried again, same thing
I used a 5amp fuse (I didn't have any more 3amp fuses)
Tried again
After 10 seconds the board clicked and the pilot went out
This behavior happens every time, unless it pops the fuse.

The AC and blower work as expected
When the fuse pops the blower comes on
 
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Old 10-14-16, 12:26 PM
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The most common reason for the circuit board fuse to fail is that the thermostat wire is being cut by some sheet metal and is shorting the 24 VAC power to the furnace sheet metal.

However, drowning the circuit board in water might cause such a problem, too! I wouldn't expect a new circuit board to cause such a short circuit when it's new and dry, though.

So what's the water situation on that new circuit board? Is the new circuit board you installed dry when it's shorting out and blowing the fuse? If so, I'd inspect that thermostat wire for a short.

You can also disconnect the thermostat wire and use a separate wire to connect the R and W terminals to turn on the furnace ----does that cause the furnace to operate normally, or does it still blow the fuse?
 
 

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