main burner orifice position

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  #1  
Old 12-10-16, 01:25 PM
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main burner orifice position

I have an old PERFECTION/SCHWANK gas (LP) fired vented room heater. I removed the burner and the main orifice to clean them. The orifice screws into a bracket that is welded to the burner and I did not measure the position of the orifice to the burner opening so now don't know where to position it.

Is there a specification for this or is it a "trial and error" until I get the proper flame color?

thanks in advance.....
 
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Old 12-11-16, 11:06 AM
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burner pics

pictures of the burner


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Old 12-13-16, 06:37 PM
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So I put the burner and the orifice back in. I adjusted the position from all the way in to almost all the way out and several positions in between but have excessive yellow flame in all positions.

I'm beginning to think there is another problem.

Any thoughts?
 
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Old 12-14-16, 09:02 AM
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Does yellow flame mean that I am getting to much air?
 
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Old 12-17-16, 09:05 AM
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still need help

Have lots of views but no help.... anyone know of any other forum that I could try?
 
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Old 12-17-16, 09:23 AM
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Mike,
Sorry I can't help you with the positioning but the yellow flame is generally a dirty flame and is lack of air.

Hope this helps.
 
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Old 12-17-16, 09:26 AM
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I would start with checking gas pressure. Poor LP combustion will cause soot that will clog the unit like you can't imagine
 
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Old 12-17-16, 09:31 AM
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Don't think I can be of much help, but yellow flame indicates wrong fuel/air ratio. First thing to check is always that orifice and burner are clean and exhaust not restricted. Since there doesn't seem to be a air shutter, the orifice position will also affect the mixture. Finally, are you sure you have good gas pressure and that the regulator is working properly?
 
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Old 12-17-16, 09:32 AM
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Mike, I googled this and options came up. Just copied and paste into search bar. This may help.

PERFECTION/SCHWANK gas (LP) fired vented room heater
 
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Old 12-17-16, 10:50 AM
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If orifice alignment isn't right the gas will bounce off the Venturi wall slowing the velocity which causes poor flame characteristics
 
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Old 12-19-16, 12:14 PM
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thanks everyone!

OK, so not enough air, no air shutter, I took the burner out and thoroughly cleaned it (it wasn't dirt at all) and the main orifice. Adjusted the orifice position all the way out, all the way in, and several positions in between and really couldn't tell any flame difference. This heater ran great for years until last winter when it started acting like this. I have changed LP suppliers twice and it seems to me that this problem started when I changed suppliers the first time. The second supplier replaced the regulator on the side of the house but still had the problem.

I have thought of the regulator but don't know how to test it or if I even can. Seems like I'd need some special tools starting with a pressure gauge. Any advice on testing it would be helpful.

One thing CarbideTipped mentioned that I haven't checked is a restricted exhaust. There is a metal pipe going out the back of the heater, into a hole in the wall that connects to a brick chimney that extends above the roof (I have a 2 story house). There's a metal pipe coming out the top of the chimney with a metal cap on it. I'm thinking there may be a metal pipe inside the brick chimney.

Lots of critters around here and I'm always finding mouse nests and corn kernels (I feed the squirrels) in my stuff in the garage and drawers in the kitchen when I'm gone for a while.

Would it be safe if I disconnected the pipe from the chimney and started the furnace for say 30 to 60 secs to see if that changes the flame?

I really appreciate all the input on this. I'm almost to the point where I'm actually considering calling a professional... OH NO!!
 
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Old 12-19-16, 01:57 PM
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If you have a shop vac, you could try connecting it jury rig style to the exhaust pipe and see if it sounds like it is restricted. You might even get lucky and pull something out.
 
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Old 12-19-16, 07:38 PM
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It appears the orifice is missing the lock nut that keeps it aligned? This could turn into a very dangerous situation if it isn't done correctly. Proceed with caution and think about having a dealer take a look.
 
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Old 12-19-16, 07:52 PM
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You'll need a manometer to read gas pressure in inches water column
I use this one

https://www.trutechtools.com/Fieldpiece-SDMN6
 
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