Carrier Furnace wont stay on
#1
02-07-17, 11:30 AM
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Carrier Furnace wont stay on
I have a Carrier Model 58PAV090-16.
it will come on, ignite and run for a few seconds and go off. Red LED, 3 blinks then 4 more. I cleaned flame censer, and then replaced it and still no change. The flame looks good. I have checked all wire to make sure connections are good. Not sure what to try next.
exhaust fan is working, and I turned on the AC and blower is working, all that works fine.
John
it will come on, ignite and run for a few seconds and go off. Red LED, 3 blinks then 4 more. I cleaned flame censer, and then replaced it and still no change. The flame looks good. I have checked all wire to make sure connections are good. Not sure what to try next.
exhaust fan is working, and I turned on the AC and blower is working, all that works fine.
John
#2
02-07-17, 02:16 PM
You might be looking at a faulty gas valve. Make sure the flame sensor is fully engulfed in the flame. Do you have a voltmeter?
Last edited by skaggsje; 02-07-17 at 02:50 PM. Reason: added
#4
02-07-17, 04:52 PM
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a little history, I live in a track home, the neighbor to the left and to the right have the same furnace and no problems. But, they use there furnace every year, I don't use so much and it has been over a year since I used.
#5
02-07-17, 07:08 PM
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The hot surface ignitor is usually on the opposite burner than the flame sensor. Does the flame carry over to the last burner?
The crossover between the burners may require cleaning. I have seen mud divers cause problems with this.
The ignitor is very fragile. Do not touch it with the brush.
Is the face of the furnace that gets exposed to the flame coated with the white powder that the burner can create? This may also require cleaning.
Some meters are able to measure flame rectification. If you get a meter that can measure micro amps DC and interrupt the circuit to the flame sensor with your meter, you can measure the flame rectification.
The diagnostic chart may state a minimum of .5 micro amps but I would expect between 3.5 an 5 micro amps DC.
Your control board is sending voltage to the flame sensor wire and measuring current to ground.
Verify that the ground screw is connected to the furnace and the connection is clean. I would clean and check these 3 screws as well as the green wire connection to the burner manifold.
The crossover between the burners may require cleaning. I have seen mud divers cause problems with this.
The ignitor is very fragile. Do not touch it with the brush.
Is the face of the furnace that gets exposed to the flame coated with the white powder that the burner can create? This may also require cleaning.
Some meters are able to measure flame rectification. If you get a meter that can measure micro amps DC and interrupt the circuit to the flame sensor with your meter, you can measure the flame rectification.
The diagnostic chart may state a minimum of .5 micro amps but I would expect between 3.5 an 5 micro amps DC.
Your control board is sending voltage to the flame sensor wire and measuring current to ground.
Verify that the ground screw is connected to the furnace and the connection is clean. I would clean and check these 3 screws as well as the green wire connection to the burner manifold.
#6
02-08-17, 01:45 PM
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Got 11.20 volts going to the flame sensor. all grounds look are good, clean and tight.
no white powder, all burners burn even and blue. I have not been up on the roof to check the b-vent
no white powder, all burners burn even and blue. I have not been up on the roof to check the b-vent
#7
02-08-17, 03:59 PM
Shouldn't have any voltage going to the flame sensor. You need to measure microamps (um).
Last edited by skaggsje; 02-08-17 at 04:04 PM. Reason: correction
#8
02-09-17, 10:25 AM
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I have read that, but will have to figure out how to use this meter to measure micro amps. and yes with the furnace on or off there is 15.90 volts going to the flame senor. Cant detect any micro amps but not sure if I am doing that right.
Last edited by Johnzapf; 02-09-17 at 10:46 AM.
#9
02-09-17, 01:16 PM
How are you measuring the sensor? Send us the meter model number or pic and we can see if it can read microamps.
#10
02-09-17, 04:00 PM
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picture of the wavetek 15XL is below.
I am sure its just from lack of use. I live in southern California, and in the past 20 year I have turned on 10 times. Just like the AC. when I went to use a few years ago it didn't work, I had to replace the condensing unit. But same thing, the house only hits 80 once or twice every couple years, so if never used.
I am sure its just from lack of use. I live in southern California, and in the past 20 year I have turned on 10 times. Just like the AC. when I went to use a few years ago it didn't work, I had to replace the condensing unit. But same thing, the house only hits 80 once or twice every couple years, so if never used.
Last edited by Johnzapf; 02-09-17 at 06:10 PM.
#12
02-10-17, 01:28 PM
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ok then, like I have said I don't detect any micro amps, only 15-16 volts on the wire going to the flame sensor.
Last edited by Johnzapf; 02-10-17 at 02:27 PM.
#15
02-11-17, 09:18 AM
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I did exactly like you said, then turned on furnace it cycled, and meter remains at 00.0
unplug the furnace, reseated all the wires, checked everything, plugged back in and tried again, same thing, meter reads 00.0 and never changes.
then red LED, 3 fast blinks pause 4 slow slow blinks
unplug the furnace, reseated all the wires, checked everything, plugged back in and tried again, same thing, meter reads 00.0 and never changes.
then red LED, 3 fast blinks pause 4 slow slow blinks
Last edited by Johnzapf; 02-11-17 at 10:33 AM.
#16
02-11-17, 10:55 AM
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Move the black lead over one port on the meter.
It should give you the reading after ignition.
Did you ever get ignition in your test?
It should give you the reading after ignition.
Did you ever get ignition in your test?
#17
02-11-17, 11:19 AM
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ok, moved the black lead over one and tried. same thing. stays a 00.0 even once the burners light.
yes will ignite for 3 seconds then go off and try gain, a few times. I turn it off before it locks out.
FYI, nice Photoshop work on the meter pic, that helped a lot.
yes will ignite for 3 seconds then go off and try gain, a few times. I turn it off before it locks out.
FYI, nice Photoshop work on the meter pic, that helped a lot.
#19
02-11-17, 05:20 PM
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I couldn't see which meter terminal is COM It should be the 2 middle ports but you still want the uA setting on the dial.
The ICM control board will be much cheaper than an OEM. It's usually fine but I have seen a new one fail to satisfy with 2 microamps DC present. I installed the OEM and measured 5 uA DC.
Last edited by Houston204; 02-11-17 at 08:04 PM.
#23
02-15-17, 04:44 PM
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While I believe that your meter is faulty, I still think that it is a bad control board.
The part number is on your control board.
From the pictures it does not appear that your control board is the older model with the Edge pin connector.
I am a big fan of Amazon for ordering almost anything online.
Enter your part number to find the cost and availability.
The replacement will probably be this kit unless it is the older model with the edge pin connector....
The OEM is $177.
The ICM clone is $121
Verify if the harness connects to the edge of the board ( like a Nintendo game cartridge) or if the harness connects to the face of the board.
The part number is on your control board.
From the pictures it does not appear that your control board is the older model with the Edge pin connector.
I am a big fan of Amazon for ordering almost anything online.
Enter your part number to find the cost and availability.
The replacement will probably be this kit unless it is the older model with the edge pin connector....
The OEM is $177.
The ICM clone is $121
Verify if the harness connects to the edge of the board ( like a Nintendo game cartridge) or if the harness connects to the face of the board.
