Intermittent Lock out. Oil hot air Honeywell

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Old 02-27-17, 09:24 AM
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Question Intermittent Lock out. Oil hot air Honeywell

Have a very old Oil/hot air furnace. The Burner head is a Carbo Concord [sp?]
Not as old .
Had a problem with the R8184 G 4009 Honeywell going into lock out. Once/twice a day, then run for a few days. Have 3/8 tank of oil [ same line feeds the oil water heater]
Yesterday I had a friend a Plumber change the nozzle, filter and screen and clean the CAD. Eye, he said it was dirty. It really was over due.
Ran good all day and last night. This morning it went into lock out.
Hit reset once bingo fires right up.
Dumb question The Honeywell hums [ not loud, but I can hear it if I get close.] when the burner is not on. Thinking of getting a New honeywell and CAD eye. Dumb question #2 Is the CAD eye specific to the R8184G.
Figure a plumbing heating supply house. Home Depot has a very bad record with That part
Long Island NY. [11730 area] Thank you
 
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Old 03-01-17, 02:47 PM
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I doubt you have a problem with the cad cell itself. Most commonly the problem lies with the socket into which the eye plugs. If you are going to replace the cad cell, I suggest replacing the entire assembly.
There is a crude but often test to determine if the problem is with the 8184. With the burner running, rap the side of the control with a screwdriver handle. You don't want to try to knock the control off the screws just a couple of good firm raps. If the burner drops out, even momentarily, replace the control because the relay inside is weak.
 
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Old 03-07-17, 04:18 PM
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UP -date on intermittent lock out Old Oil /hot air /furnace

Furnace is 50 + years old, Burner head not as old.
Same oil line feeds Furnace and Water heater [ which works 100%] now have 1/4 tank of oil. Had not been cleaned or serviced for like 2/3 years, but ran good. Save for a crack in the heat exchange which was repaired with a WET PACK Ran good
This year Oil filter,nozzle [75 80 B ] replaced A 75 80 ES [ supposed to be the same] Ran good then when super cold out side went into lock out intermittently
Once A day then fine for a few days.
Replaced the Honeywell primary R8184 G 4009 and complete Cad cell with harness. OK a Day then the oil pump on and off started to whine Loud. As I was looking at the burner view port it started to thump on and off [ flame out] then into lock out. Yet was hot enough to engage the blower . Waited a minute, hit re-set, started right up.
So today the pump was replaced . Turned up the T-stat to like 80 degrees Fired right up [ after bleeding] Fantastic Ran for like 3 minutes then started to flame out [ thump] intermittently with a clicking sound ? Then Lock out. Note when it started to flame out the Damper moved to a more open position
Turned down the T-stat to 70 . Working ok about 2/3 hours.
Any Ideas.
Pics enclosed
 
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Old 03-07-17, 05:23 PM
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What's pump suction and nozzle pressure readings during burner operation, and during flame loss?
 
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Old 03-08-17, 04:54 AM
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That is beyond my knowledge. will have to call in a good tech.
Note Did it again [ flame loss] this morning. Wife turned down the T stat. I checked did not go into lock out.
Thank you
 
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Old 03-08-17, 09:16 AM
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Two threads merged into one.
 
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Old 03-09-17, 12:52 PM
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Is it possible That the electric Honey Well electric oil valve [ see top pic ] on my post # 3 is causing the intermittent flame out ? [ runs for a few minutes then seems to be starved for fuel] It is the only thing not replaced. Can I By pass this. Asked a few people, no one has seen it.
Thank you
 
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Old 03-09-17, 02:59 PM
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Yes it can. Do you have better pics of just the valves and oil lines going in and out of it. Are you any good with electricity?
 
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Old 03-09-17, 03:23 PM
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Pic enclosed. Oil flow new filter --- new Rheem pump --- to the honeywell electric oil switch ---
To the Gun housing to the nossle .
The Electric switch has 2 [two] black wires that go thru the gun housing to the NEW Honeywell primary. One to black the other to Orange .
Yup not to bad with electric stuff.
Thanks for your response.
 
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Old 03-09-17, 03:54 PM
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You said one of your wires goes to orange and the other goes to black. Your Honeywell control has 3 wires I believe. BLACK, WHITE, ORANGE. Your black wire is your limit, orange wire is your motor and your white wire is your common.

Some controls have more wires. If yours does what are the colors.

Your solenoid wires should be connected to ORANGE & WHITE. The wiring may be wrong so the solenoid is shutting off with the limit. Try putting the black wire from the black on the control to the white wire on the control and you may be fine.

If you want to just eliminate the solonoid for know you can remove the oil line from the pump to the inlet side of the valve (long line) and remove the nozzle line (short line) from the outlet side of the valve and carefully attach it to the pump where the other line was.

This will bypass the solenoid and give you a direct feed from the pump to see if that was your problem.

If not I would check my nozzle assembly to see if it is wet on the cone. The angle may be wrong on the new nozzle. ES can be substituted at times but the spray angle is not exactly the same and if it is hitting the end cone it may be getting the electrodes and cone sooted up.

This may not be the case but it might be worth a look.

Hope this helps a little.
 

Last edited by spott; 03-09-17 at 04:32 PM.
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Old 03-11-17, 10:53 AM
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Problem fixed. Want to thank all of you for the help.
Brought in a Real Oil burner tech. Should have from the start. Rather than throw parts at it. [ my fault] A little knowledge is a bad thing.
Checked all the wiring. [ correct] New Filter on the furnace was clean, but NOT full. [ 3' off the floor hint]
Hot water heater went into lock out [ note burner on the floor lower than the oil tank outlet. Right after a oil delivery. Furnace flame out and spits .
Today new clean oil line .
Everything perfect. Still looking to replace the Furnace this summer. 50+ years old.
And the water heater 1986. Thinking of a Electric or gas demand system
Thanks agin
 
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