Problem with my Oil Heating Furnace,...

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  #81  
Old 01-13-18, 11:57 AM
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I think you are absolutely right,…..

I got, 3-4 estimates ( Sears, Lowes, Servicemark, Boulden,.. ) and all big guys are just simply pushing you buying for a new system,.. ( unfortunately, Oil furnaces are expensive than Gas or Elec, as the other have mainly plastic parts in it,…with small size,.. ) giving you a threats of ,….. .

…….... old furnace, less efficiency, new tech. out there, combustion analysis may fail, CO, CO2 and unburnt gases must be coming from vent and hazardous to health,… crack must be in HE, by this time, other parts will fail soon too, not worth good money after bad money, furnace has outlived the life,… there is no chimney metal liner in my chimney, so they have to do that work too, for your other good benefit,… they will install other impeller which will suck the flue gases and will throw to the chimney, so better efficiency,…… unfinished basement area is just small to let it breathe properly,… hence we must install vent holes in the door, as per the code,. We will do god job, which will increase efficiency and health factors,…And,…… loads of other suggestions, reasoning and advices, fear, greed , threat and all,….. just pushing you,. to get rid of the old trash, not worth spreading hand into it,.. and definitely rather get a new system, to give them a big business,….yada yada,.. .

Well, I will wait for an social service results , if they come to inspect and help,.. and if not,.. will start looking for buying myself looking around for a new motor and rotor,… parts is the cost,.. I guess, installation is just simple and will not be much problem,….. and hope, for the no crack in HE or any other major hidden skeletons in da closet..
 
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  #82  
Old 01-13-18, 12:20 PM
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I’m not understanding your post.
If you call someone for an estimate they will send a salesman out for a new system. A new oil furnace isn’t all that much more efficient then an old one. Besides differences in the blower motor.
I don’t know how a combustion analysis can “fail”.
Carbon monoxide is worse then hazardous to your health. It’s a deadly gas that can kill you before you realize there’s a problem.
The only way you’ll really get a quote for parts is place a call for service and pay for a service call. The tech will come out, inspect the unit and give you a price for repair.
You’ll still need a tuneup and pm which may be expensive as you said no maintenance has been done to this oil furnace in over 6 years. You CANNOT ignore proper maintenance on an oil furnace. The cost for and time to do such a service increases the longer you wait.
If the heat exchanger is cracked, or rotten, your going to pay for parts for a furnace which is useless.
All the parts houses I deal with around your area will not sell to consumers.
The part number for the wheel has been posted in this thread several times.

Right now, you need a minimum of the following parts-
-Blower Motor
-Blower Wheel
-Blower Motor Capacitor

And for the PM-
-Nozzle
-Oil Filter
-Pump Screen (old one may be cleanable, if there’s one there)
-Electrodes (old ones may be ok)

And for tools for both, beyond basic hand tools, you’ll need-
-combustion analyzer
-oil pump test gauges
-soot vacuum
-heat exchanger brushes
 
  #83  
Old 01-13-18, 02:30 PM
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Thanks for that analysis saar,.. I completely agree,….

Unfortunately,Right now I am running on tight hand / squeezing, ……so will have to cut it short and avoid many thingies,.. .

I will wait for the social services help,….for their analysis,… etc,… let see what they finds,… .

On motor the labels are behind straps ( new pics posted at below link ) and hence invisible,….. If I took the metal straps out, it will lose the alignment ) for three screws to be mounted on the casing , making the Motor shaft in the same centerline coinciding with the casing hole,.. .





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  #84  
Old 01-13-18, 03:57 PM
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If you skip on proper maintenance your furnace will use more fuel then it should. It will also become unreliable and will ultimately begin damaging and/or destroying the furnace. It will either clog up and start forcing soot and fumes into the home, or start melting the burner head and blast tube down. That will be quite expensive to fix.
The motor bracket can be removed so the motor tag can be viewed. You’ll have to line the whole motor/bracket/wheel/housing back up when you reassemble everything. The motor specs can be used to match another motor.
 
  #85  
Old 01-13-18, 06:03 PM
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How do you do that? You put the level meter on shaft / Motor ( with bubble ) while tightening the three bracket screws? I don't have those tools... I saw many videos on YT, where a street handymen, just bends the electrodes very roughly,.... to make some eye-bowling angles,..
without using any precision gauging measurements,... or extra care till mm is being taken care of,........ !!!!
 
  #86  
Old 01-13-18, 06:15 PM
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YouTube is a dangerous place. The average consumer has no idea what’s right and what’s outright dangerous. Some of those people are idiots that shouldn’t be allowed to own tools.
The blower assembly is just lined back up so everything’s centered. Not to much to it. There is no real level. Everything has to be installed so it’s going in the right direction.
Tuning the burner requires instruments and measurements, and enough training to know what those tools are telling you. Not really a job for a handyman.
 
  #87  
Old 01-14-18, 05:13 PM
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RE : Post no. 73 of PJMax.

.

.

I am bit confused here,.. .

Why inserting an another pulley and making the life more difficult? Would not it be lot easier to hold the shaft rather with one pliers and then remove the Hub, with other pliers ? .

Secondly, why you think that Hub has moved from its original position? I don’t think so,… Set screw was never found broken, plus if the hub had moved, the rotor would had start striking the face of the cover with terrible friction, making the motor to stop or getting motor broken immediately,… Coz there is not room in the casing that will still allow any room for the rotor, to rotate even after moving of the hub,.. also if it has moved,….. then it can not be so steady and fixed at this new position with set screw still tight enough, as it was found,… .

Also, what I understand is, the three brackets of straps that holds the motor to the casings of the blower has got rubber-vicars’ on its both the sides where you mount with three screws,….. and even a little less or more tightening of any screw, will make that axis inclined,…… ( those three straps actually holding the motors periphery, if are at little back and forth position will also make this even worse) and the shaft will NOT rotate, with it’s centerline of the shaft axis,.. parallel to the ground – in other words, the big center-circular holes at both the sides of the casings ( its centerline ) and Shaft’s centerline axis, will not coincide, but there will be some angle between them,.. and it will fail this project. . .

Still no one is telling me, what is the trick ( Do you use bubble guage ? ) when mounting the three screws to the casing, to make sure that both the center lines coincides,.. and rotor is not rotating on an inclined axis,…
.
btw,. i agree with post no. 86 of roughneck..
 
  #88  
Old 01-16-18, 11:34 AM
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. My furnace has in it, the number ( in Model/Serial ) with 8526and some1 told me that it’s the code that,…. it was built in 1985 in 26th week, and that’s how old your oil furnace is,.. btw, My house was built in1986 somewhere, so,.. probably that’s the first and original furnace till date,….. chances could be,.. very well…… that it may have crack in the heat exchanger,.. .



Few questions here,..

.

I collected from the to and fro ,.. varying opinions of few new installment estimates guys, which I collected from them their the varied opinions,.. and remain confused… .



1. Do you really need to make vents and holes in unfinished and unfinished room partitions or doors,…to such that,…the proper air for breathing, for enough combustion for the furnace…. To have enough breath-sucking ? I do not see the dust collections at the edges of the door ( if it has to suck very hard.. for breathing,…) I collected 3-4 opinions for the new furnace guys and it varied a lot,.. One said, the new motors have higher combustion/ breathing/ sucking air needed and hence it’s a must code requirement,.. .

  1. Do you have to have a metal liner in the chimney ? ) right now it has terracotta only,… two guys said,.. one guy said it has none…) One guy strongly said, per code metal liner is needed ( in fact he said none is there) two guys said, terracotta liner is fine and no need to install/replace for new one, unless, you changed the fuel style,. Say,.. from oil to gas or so,..
.

  1. One guy even said, the 275 gall. Oil tank is also should be somewhere from 1985 and hence after 33 around ages must have corroded inside and will leak within next 2-3 yrs…….. so better be replace all now and cooper line all the way to furnace and all those at the same time,…. As it has outlived its life,..
.

  1. One guy said,.. the copper pipe going from the coil tank to the furnace is underground and we don’t know what happened during 33 yrs and there may be leak/break inside and leaking fuel,.. or collecting air bubbles,.. and there is no sleeve on it,.. at that time,. It was just poured away with cement flooring,…
.

  1. How long the life of oil tank is? Does it can have easy leak after 33+ yrs, automatically? Doe sit develop so much sludge at bottom and hence loads of sludge come sin oil filter and oil Pump’s screen? One guys even said, the crack in HE can throw flue gases in your vent and you may be breathing CO and CO2 that you never know, and once you are out of the house, and it may even start throwing fire inside the outer casing of the furnace first and then thro the vent to your house, putting it on fire,..


………………….
 
  #89  
Old 01-18-18, 01:16 PM
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Since, it was too much difficult and also risk of buying the two ( wrong ? ) most expensive parts aka motor and rotor wheel, capacitor,…. ( “carrier” would never sell it to you, nr would tell the right part number,… etc ( unless you hire their authorized dealer and get work done from them… ) and generic may not be compatible,… Also needing the tune up / replacement of fuel injector jet nozzle, checking of electrode sand its angle,…and oil filter ,…..also check for any obvious leaks / bubble / prime/bleeding operations,…, abnormals, combustion test and all such,. ( not conducted such in last 8+ yrs ) …..

Hence, hired an authorized service of a well-trained craftsman, taking the help of also philanthropic organization for seniors and such,.. and got the job well done and completed…..professionally,… Fuel filter when opened, was found pretty clean even after 8+ years,…. I think, they used 0.65 nozzle with 80 degree , B,…. instead of 0.75. But, again they know what they are doing,…. .

They changed for a new elec. motor, rotor wheel, capacitor, cleaned whole blower casing,… changed oil filter,… changed nozzle, cleaned electrodes, did combustion tests and other obvious for anything wrong /suspects or possible leaks and such, except any cracks in HE, for that they perhaps may have needed to open it,…( so, they did not do that ) but all other obvious things were done, and furnace is now well running with sound noise and looking so far good,… Great job done. Work accomplished. .

Thank you all for participating with me, in this educational ride and I learnt a lot from you, field-educated, well-trained, well-experienced,.. wonderful people, and perhaps next time, ( after 1-2 years ) may attempt for changing the Nozzle or fuel-filter by myself, after reading you guys, learning, experiencing… and watching the work done,.. .



Thanks you all folks here,…


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  #90  
Old 01-18-18, 06:14 PM
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Probably best you let a professional take care of things.
Honestly you could get hurt or even worse if you mess with things your not comfortable with.
What was the end efficiency after he ran the combustion test? Probably somewhere in the low 80% range I’d guess.
8+ years between cleanings on an oil furnace is an eternity. You should see them after they get clogged up and start blowing soot into the house. They wind up as insurance claims because a cleanup crew has to come in to remove the soot from everything in the house, and the house sometimes even needs repainting.
 
  #91  
Old 01-18-18, 07:51 PM
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Two expertise guys, (55+ ages ) who were in the field doing for 30-35+ yrs ( I guess) took care very efficiently and to my surprise, they even put brand new parts ( as in picture ) . They took the assembly of casing yesterday at 10.00 and brought today 11.30 completed,.. I still surprise how they could got / order and assembled the parts so fast, as I thought, it will now take weeks and weeks,…. ( though he said, we will get done tomorrow in early morning,. and I took it as joke ) . They were doing the meter reading their way and I could never understand the moving nos of data,… their puzzling and such,.. ! But they inserted their meter’s tube, in that flue gas path of a 0.5 inch size holes,.. and struggling with readings,…. I never argues and interrupted as they were doing the task so seriously,…….

When I asked is there any crack in HE, can you guess thro’ window or tell,.. they said it needs opening of those HE area ( can’t tell ) , and when I asked,… will this work and furnace which is ready now set / good,… for other at least 4-5 years,… ? They did not speak much,.. saying,.. “depends” by their face-expression,.. .

Oil filter and fuel jet were not that bad,.. no sledge/slurry was in oil filter,… unlike I saw in many YT videos,.. ! To them, the furnace parts ( behind the front cover, looked good and were in good condition,… no need to replace,.. ) Whoever was saying,…. the possible eaten away copper pipes ( holes in it, and forcing for overhead new lines ) below the conc. pvmt, was BS, as per to them,.. as they said,.. if leak is there below the pvmt,..and if bubble gets in, furnace should have stopped,…. N’ will not work,…. .

They were puzzling and talking each other, about the confused results of the test, they were struggling,… and I guess it was on some border line, still under approval,…perhaps. .

Btw,…I run hetaer very little and only when at home ( only 1 guy living here ), don’t run for a/c,.. ( regardless of, I get free oil ) I also never run heater at night, ( at my old houses too ) as you never know… if CO / CO2 level increases in vent, and you would never wake up next day,…. !! We always used to turn OFF heater when under bed,..

.Thx all folks here, for yrs valuable interest, support, assistance, advice and co-operation,… Keep up da spirit,…… Thx all,…
 
  #92  
Old 01-18-18, 08:15 PM
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My basement is closed and no windows or door there I ‘ve ever opened,…. for any outside dust particles to get in,.. say,.... for heater breathing or accumulation in oil filter or so,… hence despite of 8 yrs the operation was clean, perhaps.. . They left a blue Cap of a plastic bottle of nozzle,.. which says, .65 GPH instead of 0.75 GPH,… so my guess is, they installed the .65 instead of .75 ( I am guessing ) > I drew their attention.... and they said it's ok,.. no worry,...
 
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