I have a 2 zone, 2 thermostat gas hot water heating system.
Several days ago pipes on second floor froze, split, were repaired and everything fine. Took a long time for heat on first floor to get back to normal temperature, but it finally did.
Two days later and second floor thermostat and temperature working fine. But first floor temperature will not rise above 66. My son has caulked and replaced weatherstripping wherever his 'gadget' showed heat leaks. We even have a blanket hung at top of stairs to second floor to keep heat from rising there.
Repairman came and drained pipes again to make sure no air in system. He can not find a cause for the problem.
I hate to call him again...he has been here three times this week.
Could it be something gone wrong in the thermostat?

 

If your repairman can't figure this out then I would find someone else. Can you post model numbers and some pics ?

 

model number for thermostat Honeywell TH61 10D1021-0943

heater AWI 162SNST1PSU

 

I don't know if or how this might be relevant.....but I took the battery compartment out of the thermostat to get the model number....40 minutes later I noticed the temp had risen one degree to 67. It is about 45 minutes past that discovery and it has not gone up any more.
The temp outside is still 10 degrees F so that is not a factor.

 

A,
If the system was working before and not now and you have no air in system it has to be something mechanical in that zone.

Do you have pumps or zone valves and are you sure they are both working and allowing water to flow through zone.

Did you trace the pipes for that zone to see where the heat stops if it does or is it actually circulating through the zone.

Is the stat shutting off the burner prematurely and short cycling.

To check your stat if it's just 2 wire heating, remove the face of the stat and jump the 2 wires and see if the burner stay running longer to heat the zone.

If you have zone valves and 1 pump you can eliminate the pump and control because Z2 is working, and with no air I would look at ZV or stat with the limited info provided.

Pics of the boiler and controls would be helpful.

Hope this helps a little.

 

If the thermostat clicks when it calls for heat.... it's working fine.
Like Spott mentioned.... post some pictures of the boiler and related plumbing.
How-to-insert-pictures

 

The temp has risen to 68.....? Makes me think might something in the thermostat., since that is the only thing I touched.
...but what in either the heater or the thermostat would have been keeping it at 66 for about 30 hours?
I will try to attach pictures

 

I give up. No matter what I do to reduce size of pictures, I still get an 'invalid file' comment.
For now thermostat is staying at 68 And I just replaced the batteries.....it wasn't giving my a weak battery signal, but they haven't been changed in a couple years.

To Spott.....there is heat so water is getting through. As you suggested, maybe stat is short cycling....whatever that means. But as for jumping the wires....as the saying goes....that is way above my pay grade......81 yo recently widowed!

 

A,
I understand and if you are not comfortable then that's the right move.

Just so you know though for your own info it is only 24 volts and unlike house current there is no hot & neutral. There is nothing than can happen by touching them together and if the boiler starts and stays running that would narrow the problem down.

If you're not comfortable then I wouldn't touch it but if you have someone around you could explain it to them.

 

TADA!!!!
Heat is up to 70......right where I have it set. Life is good...well, at least warm, and that is good. : )
I'm just guessing it was something stuck in the thermostat and like SPOTT said, it was shutting off burner prematurely.
Pulling out battery compartment might have triggered it back into action......sounds good to me.

Thank you every one for your time and input on this problem.
Nice to know this site is here and there are people who take the time to help. So yes, life is good!