Ignitor glows, but no fire - ICP Propane furnace

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Old 01-21-18, 08:57 PM
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Unhappy Ignitor glows, but no fire - ICP Propane furnace

I have ICP N9MPD075F12A2 Furnace. Ignitor was not glowing before and was able to make sure it wasn't Pressure switch issue. I found 2 birds stuck on the pipe connected to Inducer Motor. Now, Ignitor was glowing and was able to get flame started after 3 or so tries. Problem now after a week of power cycling: Heat doesn't start at all. No Flame. I have replaced Ignitor, Flame sensor, Control Board and Pressure switch. No Luck still. Can anyone Please Help.

More details of what i have also checked. Have 24V to Gas Valve when it is called once Ignitor is heated up. I did take out the 4-Burners and cleaned it. I am not sure if i clogged that up or i need to clean the Orifice. I did blow air into Orifice on the housing without taking them off, but do i need to remove them from housing to clean them? I will need to get sealant to put it back together as well, correct? I have also tried tapping on Gas valve when it calls for gas release. I do hear proper "Clicks" as well.

Could it be Burners not releasing the gas to the ignitor due to clogged? Orifice clogged and needs cleaning? Gas Valve (even though it clicks) has gone bad - atleast tapping on it might kick it restart temporarily?

Please help...
 
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Old 01-22-18, 03:40 PM
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Ok if upon a call for heat your induced draft motor begins running, this in turn closes the pressure switch mounted on the induced draft motor housing thus proving the the induced draft motor is operating and the next sequence of operation can proceed, this being the hot surface ignitor or spark igniter begins sparking or glowing white hot for 30 seconds in a trial period for ignition, since thus far everything works we know its not the ignitor or induced draft motor.
After the pressure switch closes and remains closed for 3o seconds the gas valve is told its safe to transition to burner or pilot if equipped, most are direct burner light off today but no matter.
If there is no gas released for the igniter to ignite after 30 seconds the induced draft will continue running to purge and unlit gas and again the gas valve will release gas for 30 seconds and if 3 attempts fail the unit locks out requiring a wait for an hour or power reset the unit .
If the gas valve is getting 24 volts during the time it should be allowing gas to the burner assembly and no gas is evidenced either you have a defective gas valve or a clogged orifice in the gas valve, ream them out with a small drill bit or wire and re try, if no gas if evidenced and 24 volts is present to the gas valve it is either electrically bad of physically stick, in either case replacement of the gas valve iis required.
Take an amp draw of the gas valve with 24 volts applied to it and see if its trying to work or doing nothing, this will be indicated by an amp draw being read while 24 volts is applied to the gas valve, it maybe physically stuck and the gas valves trying to do work, if you apply the 24 volts and no amp draw is read the gas valve is bad and not doing any work, many gas valves cannot be ohmed out to determine the gas valves condition as the new valves will all read as if electrically open due to resistors in the gas valve so if power id present yet no amp draw its bad and if amp draws read its stuck physically and cant open.
 
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Old 01-22-18, 09:33 PM
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I was trying to find out how the propane pressure switch affected the ignition process. It's the pressure switch with the two yellow wires on it.

You have an orifice for each burner so it's not likely to be an a plugged orifice. If the orifice was plugged at the burner where the igniter was you would probably smell propane from the other orifices.

When you check for 24vac to the gas valve..... it must be connected.
 
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Old 01-24-18, 04:13 PM
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Any help please? i believe i have stuck gas valve and ordered same exact model, but was delivered a different one. Original is Honeywell VR8205S2353, but the one i received in mail was White Rogers 36G22-254. I am not sure if this will work as a replacement from aspects of Fast or Slow release. All other details are the same 3.5 WC, 24V, etc.

Pjmax: Yes, there is 24V when connected coming into Gas Valve.

thanks in advance
 

Last edited by ac2015; 01-24-18 at 04:23 PM. Reason: additional info.
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Old 01-24-18, 06:12 PM
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What’s incoming and outgoing gas pressure for the gas valve?
 
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Old 01-24-18, 06:52 PM
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Sorry..... replacing a gas valve is not really a DIY job. The new valve needs to have the pressures adjusted to either match your old one or based on the furnace specs.

Here's the cross reference listing from W/R. It does not match what you were sent.
emerson climate/Resources/White-Rodgers_Product_Selector=VR8205S2353
 
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Old 01-25-18, 03:07 PM
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I don't intend to replace it myself. i am calling HVAC professional due to that reason of adjusting the pressure specifically. I know my limits.
 
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Old 01-25-18, 03:11 PM
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11 pressure was set, but most of the diagnostics performed by Professionals didn't even take their Manometer out to check that. All they did was check the 24V coming to Gas valve and said that "Gas Valve is Bad". Diagnostic fees for the same thing again and again for what i already knew that i had 24V coming to Gas valve.
 
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