Furnace stops working after 8-12 hours - pressure switch stuck open error

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  #1  
Old 03-08-18, 08:50 AM
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Furnace stops working after 8-12 hours - pressure switch stuck open error

Hi, I have an old furnace 20+ years old in the house I just moved into. The furnace will power on, the inducer motor spins and then the furnace ignites. The furnace will run until it gets to the temp on the thermostat then powers off like it should. It will power back on to heat back up and shut back off like normal. After 8-12 hours it will stop working and I'll get an error code flashing 3 blinking lights indicating the pressure switch is stuck open. If I power cycle the furnace it will work again for another 8-12 hours.

Furnace is an Amana Air command hi efficiency 95 gas furnace.
Model #: GUX070X30B
Pressure Switch #: 20028403 - discontinued and I cannot find the part anywhere online.

I cleaned out the condensate trap, double check the inducer/pressure switch tube. Exhaust looks to be clear. I do not see an external intake on this furnace.

Here is a link to pictures of the pressure switch and model #.
https://imgur.com/gallery/Chrb5

Not looking to replace the furnace this year. This pressure switch (https://www.amazon.com/0130F00001P-G.../dp/B00FJ99N6Y) has the same WC rating and 2 plug as mine, could I use it as a replacement?


Any additional help would be much appreciated.
 
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  #2  
Old 03-08-18, 10:37 AM
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It's not likely the pressure switch is bad. Make sure the hose connecter on the inducer fan is clear. Use a paper clip to get the gunk out.
 
  #3  
Old 03-08-18, 10:44 AM
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Thanks for the feedback, I'll check that out tonight. (the hose itself was clear, I'll double check the connection on the inducer itself).
 
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Old 03-08-18, 11:20 AM
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P,
Check out this sight, it might help if it is the switch you need.

https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDet...028403/2645544

This is another from Amazon.

Goodman
OEM Upgraded Replacement for Goodman Furnace Vent Air Pressure Switch B13701-42

Hope this helps a little.
 
  #5  
Old 03-08-18, 12:02 PM
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Thanks Spott, the one you linked to is the switch i need, but I can't find it anywhere due to being obsolete. The other one has a different WC rating than mine.
 
  #6  
Old 03-08-18, 02:09 PM
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Very doubtful it's the pressure switch. Pull the hose completely off to make sure it's not blocked. As mentioned clean the little orifice down inside the fitting on the inducer blower. After clearing blow air thru that hose into the inducer to check it's clear as well as no gurgling from water.

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  #7  
Old 03-08-18, 03:15 PM
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Thank you PJ. The hose was not blocked, but I'll definitely take a look at the little hole where the tube connects on the inducer to try and clean that out and double check if there is water gurgling. If the water is gurgling what does that mean?
 
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Old 03-09-18, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by PJmax View Post
Very doubtful it's the pressure switch. Pull the hose completely off to make sure it's not blocked. As mentioned clean the little orifice down inside the fitting on the inducer blower. After clearing blow air thru that hose into the inducer to check it's clear as well as no gurgling from water.

Attachment 91362
Ok, it was squeaky clean, but I still blew into the inducer with what felt like no restriction. Also, there was no water gurgling sounds. Same issue occurred when I checked the furnace in the morning.
 
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Old 03-09-18, 11:19 PM
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The B13701-42 is a -.60wc pressure switch. Not a correct sub for you furnace although it's listed as such in several locations.

You can use a Goodman 0130F00001P. Which is a -1.20wc NO switch and should match the rating on your current one.

I'd use a manometer to check actual vacuum. You may have no choice but to replace it.


Manual.... Amana/Goodman_10250804_Manual.pdf
 
  #10  
Old 03-10-18, 05:14 PM
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Replace the furnace or the switch?
 
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Old 03-10-18, 08:57 PM
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The switch...................
 
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Old 03-13-18, 07:48 PM
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Ok put the new piece in. It worked when the entrance of the tube to the pressure switch was below the exit hole in the inducer. When I attached it where the old one was it was stuck open (three flashing lights) the entrance to the pressure switch was above the exit on the inducer and the tube was taught it didn't appear to be crimped. It wouldn't fire up. I leave it dangling where the tube isn't taught and pressure switch is below inducer suction and it fired up super quick.

Does this indicate anything?
 
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Old 03-14-18, 05:37 AM
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Other difference was the orientation of the pressure switch. Vertical didn't work but while dangling it's more or less horizontal and works.
 
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Old 03-14-18, 07:40 AM
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Wasn't the pressure switch, furnace had the same error code this morning.
 
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Old 03-14-18, 09:41 AM
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Exhaust Tube inspection

How did you inspect the exhaust Tube?
were you able to remove it from the furnace and see outside?

Did you need to cut it to see into it?
 

Last edited by Houston204; 03-14-18 at 12:00 PM.
  #16  
Old 03-14-18, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Houston204 View Post
How did you inspect the exhaust Tube?
were you able to remove it from the furnace and see outside?

Did you need to cut it to see into it?
I just looked at it on the outside to see if there was anything in there like a birds nest or something. There is no way to look from one part of the pipe to where it comes out of the furnace. It winds from the basement to the outside at least a couple turns. Sounds like I wasn't thorough enough with the exhaust examination. Would the furnace really work for hours on end and then have an issue because of exhaust?
 
  #17  
Old 03-15-18, 05:28 AM
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If running near pressure switch reading

I have had an Amana condensing furnace that had a similar issue. I was expecting to pull out a wasp or mud diver nest from the PVC vent pipe but it was half full of what probably is bat guano.

I had a condensing boiler trip on pressure switch because the vent pipe was 2" diameter and 31feet long with 6 90's. The maximum distance for 2 inch vent was 21'. The vent needed to be increased to 3 inches. That thing would run very near the pressure switch reading when I connected my manometer.

It would start up fine but the pressure would slowly fall until it tripped.
 
  #18  
Old 03-15-18, 12:40 PM
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yeah, been reading more and I'm wondering if the exhaust is done to specs. It's a finished basement, at least they are drop down ceilings, but if I recall, I'm pretty sure there are a couple 90 degree turns, plus it gets to ceiling height very quickly. But I'm wondering if it wasn't done right, did they really live with it turning off for 20 years? I suppose it's possible, as we were told by our plumber that the piping into the hot water heater was done backwards.
 
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