I bought a new home in the spring and heating and cooling were working fine with the Trane unit that came with the home. At some point this summer I decided to replace the thermostat as the unit seemed to be coming on too often with the old one. The AC has been working fine since the replacement, but now that its getting colder, I cannot get the heat to kick on. I assume that I've done something wrong when wiring the new thermostat, but I can't quite figure out where I've gone wrong. The wiring on the unit it somewhat of a mess, but I'm pretty sure these are the unit connections coming into the house on the thermostat wire: W1 & W3 - White R - Red B - Blue G - Green Y - Yellow I have a Lux unit thermostat [url]https://www.luxproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/tx9600ts_manual_en.pdf[/url] . When I originally wired the new thermostat I remember that it seemed strange how it was wired, but I don't think I have a picture for reference anymore. Anyways, I've tried the following two combinations, but neither has gotten the unit on: W1 - White RH & RC - Red B - Blue G - Green Y - Yellow W1 - Yellow RH & RC - Red B - Blue G - Green Y - Yellow This is a natural gas single stage unit with no auxiliary heat. I have pics if needed Thanks, Everett

Late last year I had a problem where my SS2 would shut down. Ended up being the circuit board. They replaced it and it worked fine with only a few weeks left in the heating season. I had my oil forced air furnace serviced right before the heating started this year but they don't touch the powervent. Once the season started, the powervent stays running, but every once in a while, the flame in the furnace would go out then after a short period, it would re-ignite. Furnace company came out and does not believe it is a burner issue because I don't have to push the reset on the burner. They cleaned the tube in the powervent to the prover pressure switch, checked something with a gauge at the pressure switch, and they believe that was the problem. They noted the next step would be to change the prover pressure switch but it isn't cheap. They also noted my powervent is getting old. They showed me a couple studs that has the flu pipe fitting bolted to the powervent were bad. They fixed it with some self-tappers and re-assembled. They also opened the backdraft all the way, they said it was almost fully closed. I asked them if the wind blowing back into the powerventer could impact the pressure. They noted the manufacturer said there needs to be wind in excess of 40mph to be an issue. Has anybody else had issues with the prover pressure switch and would this be indicative of the the furnace flame shutting down but then starting right back up? Next year, I am also thinking of replacing the powerventer myself, as it seems pretty straight forward, slide the old out of the house, install new, and rehook up. I was told there was no way to get just the part in the powerventer with the studs. It is just very frustrating that for 8+ years since I moved in, never had a problem, now board goes out late last year and as new heating starts, the pressure switch may be bad. I didn't get any error codes but the manual says a brief prover circuit opening would not result in an error either. I also have my post purge set to 8 min. Any thoughts would be appreciated.