Clogged fuel pump on oil burner

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Old 11-20-18, 02:01 PM
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Clogged fuel pump on oil burner

I recently had a problem with my furnace not starting in my ski house. It turned out the pickup inside the tank had broken off. I paid a fiend to fix it. When I got there this weekend, it would not fire up.

He said that when he repaired it, he went too low and sucked up water, but he raised it and it ran fine.

When I try to start it, it runs, and fuel comes out when purged. It has spark. I cleaned the. Nozzle..no good. I disconnected the fuel line from pump to nozzle and ran it. No fuel came out. Here s my question:

Should fuel come through when turned on, pump running, but nozzle line disconnected?
Is it possible for a clog somewhere after the purge valve?

Cheers!

By the way..fuel Is kerosene
 
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Old 11-20-18, 03:20 PM
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Pump may have failed from running dry. Or the pump screen is clogged if yours has one.
Did your friend bleed the fuel line?
 
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Old 11-20-18, 03:21 PM
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Fuel should come out of the nozzle line after the pump. That is how the oil gets to the nozzle.

If you have a delay valve on the pump it make take a few seconds but it should come. If you have a delay valve make sure it is opening also. Could be defective.

Some pumps have strainers in them and if yours does it may be clogged. If you are sure the coupling from the motor to the pump is good and you are able to bleed your pump then I would check the strainer. When he dragged the tank bottom, he may have pulled up more than water.

Although kerosene is better than #2 oil it could happen.

Pics are always helpful to identify what equipment you have.

Hope this helps a little.
 
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Old 11-20-18, 04:51 PM
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The screen is clean.
My friend said he cleared the line and purged until straight kerosene came through and it ran fine for 10 mins.fuel was getting to the screen, but no further. I was wondering if ( like a carburetor) the pump could have a clogged jet. I’m not familiar with the path the fuel takes through the pump. I will try to send pics.

Is there a place for possible clog inside pumpbetween nozzle line and bleeder valve?

Everything runs, but won’t fire...fuel not getting to nozzle.

The easiest route might be to buy a new pump, but I figured if it were moving fuel through the bleeder it might be alright, but clogger
 
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Old 11-20-18, 06:19 PM
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As was mentioned I would check your coupling that connects the motor to the pump to make sure it's not worn and if you have a delay valve or solenoid as it's called is opening if you have one.

Shut your power off and lift up your transformer and spin the fan and see if you can tell if the coupling is good and everything is spinning. You could have a worn coupling end that is just spinning and not turning the pump.

When you bleed the pump does it come out at a good rate or just dribble out.

It's up to you but I wouldn't rush out and but a pump just yet.
 
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Old 11-20-18, 07:04 PM
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Thanks..yes the bleed comes out at a normal, good rate.
The problem is 3 hours from my home and unfortunately an hour ride (round trip) from a parts store. So I’m trying to figure as much out as possible before I make the trip back to repair it.
 
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Old 11-20-18, 07:40 PM
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Check out this sight. You might be better off getting the parts sent to you.

Just a thought.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/
 
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Old 11-21-18, 02:34 AM
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Has the Gun Tube (from the Pump to the Nozzle) been checked ?

I've found this Tube sometimes blocked or congested with paraffin and sludge the consistency of toothpaste, and the best thing I could find to clean it was a tobacco Pipe Cleaner (like Dill's or Brownell); but the longer ones intended for arts and crafts may do just as well.

The Nozzle has to be removed to do this, and may need to be replaced.
 
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Old 11-21-18, 10:49 AM
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Yes..I removed the tube completely Andy ran the unit. Nothing came out of port that connects to tube. Maybe that 90* port coming from the pump is blocked? I guess I will head there with a new pump and nozzle. Can’t hurt to have new.
Cheers..happy turkey!
 
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Old 11-22-18, 08:14 AM
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The chance of the 90* ell being blocked is so remote it's hardly worth thinking about. Are there any wires going to the fuel pump? If so the possibiliy of a bad fuel solenoid is certainly real. A couple of pictures of the burner (especially the pump) would be helpful.
 
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Old 11-27-18, 04:12 AM
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Hope these pics help. Hopefully I will get there this weekend and can share more details. I will bring a new pump and nozzle just in case.
 
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Old 11-27-18, 04:39 AM
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There's no fuel solenoid so, that possibility is eliminated. When you go, I would suggest taking a new coupling as well. They are inexpensive & could save you a trip. Anytime I replace a pump, the coupling gets replaced. Cheap insurance.
 
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Old 11-27-18, 05:40 PM
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Good idea about the coupling. Most of the pumps I am looking at have solenoids attached. Do they need to be wired? If so, are there connections required? Can it run without wiring it?
 
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Old 11-28-18, 05:13 AM
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With the primary control you have, do not use a solenoid pump unless it has a delay built into it. Without the delay, you will get a dirty startup & shutdown. If you get a solenoid pump with a delay, the solenoid is wired into the orange & white wires on the primary control.

Here is the pump you have.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Suntec-A...-RPM-9932000-p
 
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Old 11-28-18, 10:41 AM
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You seem determined to change the pump. I could be wrong but I don't think you will get any different results.

Am I mistaken or do you have 2 oil lines there for a 2 pipe system which is self bleeding. You should not have to bleed that pump, that is what the return line is for.

Next, I see 1 FLAIR fitting and 1 COMPRESSION fitting which you will want to change. Even though you think that line is tight the brass ferrule may have worn which is the reason that it is now code to use only FLAIR fittings. With that possible worn ferrule you may be sucking in just enough air to break the vacuum.

If there are any other compression fittings you should replace them also.

Just an observation from what I saw.
 
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Old 11-28-18, 05:02 PM
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I don't see a compression fitting, just 2 flares with different types of nuts. The suction looks like a forged nut (takes a 13/16" wrench) & the return looks like a nut drawn from bar stock (takes a 3/4" wrench).
 
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Old 11-28-18, 05:03 PM
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Nope..not determined to change pump, but trying to get educated to the inner workings to determine possible causes. I figure if I go armed with $200 worth of parts, something should do the trick. At worst I have some extra parts.

Yup, self-bleeding system. I will also grab some fittings. The system is used about 8 weekends each year and never had a problem until recently (see above). I wish I had tackled the job myself, but tried to elevate some stress by letting a local fix it. Now I’m out $100 and freezing my arse off when I’m there. Again, I appreciate any advice. Weekends ar my only shot at getting it fixed and supply store closes noon on Saturday and all day Sunday. With holidays approaching, I have a pretty small repair window.
Cheers!
 
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