Bryant furnace with ignitor problem

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Old 02-06-19, 09:10 PM
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Bryant furnace with ignitor problem

I got Bryent furnace plus 90i that its ignitor doesn't glow while it does glow under self diagnostic test. Does the ignitor in series with the pressure switches?
 
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Old 02-06-19, 09:42 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

What's a self diagnostic test ?

The igniter is powered directly from the control board.
The inducer must be running and the pressure switch must prove closed before the igniter will heat.
 
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Old 02-06-19, 10:15 PM
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I got code "14" gas valve lockout , (wait 3 hrs to reset)..one day before all that, which is yesterday, the furnace runs ok until the temp reaches 61 deg then disconnect on gas valve lockout....I found in another thread that water condensation can plug the hoses if the drain system is not clear so I pull the hoses out and blow into the drain lines....NOT the pressure switches...However, I agree with you that probably one of the pressure switches went bad if it's in series with the ignitor.....the system starts as the blower goes through 2 speeds then the ECM inducer also goes through 2 speeds.... then....baaam.... everything stops and the LED flashing starts.... this is the first time I fire up this furnace in this house this winter.
Any thoughts?? is the only way for the gas valve reset is just waiting 3 hrs? when I disconnect the power and restart, the furnace just do the same scenario.
 
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Old 02-07-19, 10:34 AM
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Check the exhaust vent. Mine was blocked with ice and furnace threw code 14 after 34.
 
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Old 02-07-19, 11:35 PM
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You don't "reset" the gas valve. You reset the control board by powering down. The gas valve is closing for a reason. You are describing a two stage furnace. that makes it a sophisticated furnace and harder to troubleshoot.

As mentioned...... code 14 is a lockout code. It gets set after the furnace fails on a fault. It could be a flame sense problem or pressure switch issue. You need to get the code when the fault happens.

Probably going to need the model number for this unit. It can be found inside on the side wall near the burner.
 
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Old 02-08-19, 02:22 AM
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Getting close to fix

First , thanks PJ max, your answer yesterday about the pressure switches lights a light bulb in front of me, yes it's two stage furnace with double pressure switches and water condensation involved...Any way after your hint, I went to YouTube and watched many people talking about the pressure switches so I went ahead and cleaned up the condensate water hoses n trap n collector...blow and suck gently into the pressure switches to make sure they work. it sounded as the high pressure switch stuck then it starts to work with couple of knocks on its side to get any sticking stuff in there... then, boom, connect power, turns the thermostat n finally the ignitor comes on and gas valve to follow.... we have a running furnace. the only catch here that I removed the blower door while I was diagnosing the furnace. after it works for half an hour, placing the door back, it turns off and gave error 33, which I think the rollout switch or limit switch..... well.....I just removed the door again and let it runs like that....tomorrow, I'll try to place the door again and see what will happen... wish me luck.
 
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Old 02-08-19, 10:56 PM
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And the culprit is........

After checking the vent over the roof that has no restrictions then Aha... I found a permanent filter in the air inlet before the blower fan. how come I didn't see it before, I have no idea how did I missed it....of course that filter has been there for 15 years while no one ever thought of cleaning it. I don't need to explain how dirty that sucker was....
After cleaning and installing it, the blower fan refused to go in the high speed but after few failures and error code 33....Somehow the blower decided to kick in the high speed and so far went 3 or 4 operating cycles....
what a night mare....🙄🙄
 

Last edited by moory; 02-08-19 at 11:28 PM.
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Old 02-08-19, 11:10 PM
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Interesting. Not a usual spot to find a filter.
Good job. Thanks for letting us know what you found.
 
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