This is not something I will do. I will find a licensed contractor: Our motor home is in a shed about 60 feet away from our house and LP tank. House is all electric and our 500 gallon tank is never used as it only connect to our pool heater. In the event of a power outage we sometimes move into the RV (especially in winter). In the event of a serious, long term, hacker power grid...blackout, I was thinking of using our 500 gallon LP tank and hooking up to our RV. RV has a 24 gallon LP tank. I can buy two $500 LP tanks, hook together with a regulator and pipe inside the RV shed and into the RV. Or....hook into the 500 gallon tank, trench over to the RV shed and go into the RV from there. I don't think I can fill our 24 gallon tank from the 500 gallon tank. Not sure. Plan is to bypass the 24 gallon tank and pipe LP direct into the RV. Sound reasonable ?

Earlier in the week, I noticed my heat was not working. I was getting 3 flashing red lights indicating the pressure switch was open. I did some troubleshooting and was pretty confident that the issue was the inducer motor. I had a professional come out and he confirmed that the motor appeared to be the issue. He wanted $$$, but after looking at Amazon and reading some reviews for the appropriate replacement, I decided it would be much cheaper to just buy the replkacement and replace it myself. I replaced it successfully, I believe, and started getting heat again. The temperature went from 59 to 66 fairly quickly, but then seemed to stay there for about an hour. I noticed that air was still coming out of the vents, but it was no longer hot air, even when I turned the thermostat to 80 degrees. I went back down to the basement and noticed that the steady amber light that I observed after replacing the part was now a red light flashing 4 times. Looking on the panel I saw that this indicated an open limit switch. I found a more detailed description online indicating that this could actually be a number of things causing the problem. I power cycled the unit, and it started blowing out hot air again, and the amber light was back. So I put the door back on and went back upstairs. 15 minutes later, I noticed the hot air was gone again. Sure enough I was back to 4 flashing red lights. I repeated this a few times with the same results every time. Whenever I would power cycle it, I noticed that the motor was pretty hot to the touch. The last time I went down to the basement, I powered it off, and took out the fuse to see if it was blown, but it looked fine, so I put it back in. I replaced the filter today, so that shouldn't be the issue. This time, figuring I would be going down again soon anyways, I decided to just leave the top door off rather than putting it back on. This time, the hot air kept flowing, and the steady amber light stayed. Once it reached the temperature on my thermostat (72) it turned off. I raised it to 75, just to see if it would turn on again, and it did, with hot air, no issues. So I turned it back down to 72, left it, and went to bed. When I woke up a little later, it was still working fine with no problems. I'm at work now, so I can't do additional troubleshooting at the moment. But before leaving I noticed that the motor was no longer hot. Although, the temperature was at 72, so there was no call for heat and I had a steady green light. I don't know if the motor was not hot because the heat had not been running or because the door was still off. When I get home, I plan on putting the door back on and seeing if it's resolved, in which case, I'm guessing it was maybe pulling the fuse and putting it back in that fixed it. But if the problem does come back, it seems that maybe the problem is being caused by the motor heating up too much and not being able to cool down with the door being on? I'll update the post with my findings, but I'm curious, if the problem does come back when the door is put back on, and the motor continues to get hot, does this mean I need to replace the limit switch on the inducer, or do I need to exchange the motor due to it being faulty? I have a York GY9S080B12UP11 furnace. The motor I replaced is a Fasco A225.