A/C blower motor dead
#1
05-05-19, 07:13 AM
A/C blower motor dead
The blower motor for the A/C system has stopped working. It is part of the Bryant forced air propane furnace which is 20 years old. We have a service call initiated through our Home Buyers Warranty. I would expect it is just a worn out motor. If I shut off the blower for an hour or so then it will come on for a few minutes and works with laboring sounds, then quits. When I first noticed it yesterday there was an electrical burn smell coming from it. When it is shut off I can spin the blower drum by hand. I am assuming the brushes or whatever in the motor are worn out.
Is there anything I can do to coax another day or so from this motor until the service people arrive? Not interested in disassembling the furnace though. I can reach the drum but it is behind other items. Any thoughts? I do not want to endanger the A/C by freezing up the air handler or whatever if the fan stops and the A/C just keeps running.
thanks
Is there anything I can do to coax another day or so from this motor until the service people arrive? Not interested in disassembling the furnace though. I can reach the drum but it is behind other items. Any thoughts? I do not want to endanger the A/C by freezing up the air handler or whatever if the fan stops and the A/C just keeps running.
thanks
#3
05-05-19, 09:40 AM
Member
You can check the capacitor with your meter.
Be careful with home warranty contractors. They are often chosen on how cheap they will work rather then what skills they possess. I’ve seen them literally destroy equipment. Some will also try to upsell parts and new equipment to make up the profits they loose from working so cheap.
Be careful with home warranty contractors. They are often chosen on how cheap they will work rather then what skills they possess. I’ve seen them literally destroy equipment. Some will also try to upsell parts and new equipment to make up the profits they loose from working so cheap.
#4
05-05-19, 09:46 AM
Group Moderator
Unfortunately.... once the bearings are worn there is little you can do. Typically it's the bearing closest to the blower wheel that wears from the weight of the wheel.
In a heating emergency.... I have turned the motor 180 degrees so that the shaft is wearing on a better part of the bearing. Not all motors are turnable. Depends on the mounting.,
In a heating emergency.... I have turned the motor 180 degrees so that the shaft is wearing on a better part of the bearing. Not all motors are turnable. Depends on the mounting.,
#5
05-05-19, 10:16 AM
Yes, I have my concerns about the folks who will be sent. The warranty was for one year paid for by the seller and our deductible is $100. So if I can get them to replace the blower motor and capacitor or whatever then i will consider us lucky. Agreed they will likely tell me to replace the old furnace but I am going to hold out for just repairs. We will see.
#6
05-05-19, 11:29 AM
Group Moderator
#7
05-07-19, 10:31 AM
Member
If the service contractor condemns the furnace the cost of the new one will be between them and the warranty company. Regardless, the warranty company will not lose any money so if the furnace is condemned you will likely be seeing another contractor very soon and the first contractor will never get paid. Sounds like you may get a new motor.
#8
05-07-19, 10:54 AM
Tried the fan again today. Same thing, runs fine for about five minutes then just dies. This is with the fan switch set to the always on position with the A/C switch to on but the temp set to 80 so the outside unit will not come on. Tried swapping the speeds to see if that made any difference. Nope, fan dies after a few minutes
So, does the fact the fan only runs for a few minutes point to the fan motor being shot? Also, I can rotate the squirrel cage by hand but it does not spin easily. It only rotates another few inches after I give it a spin. Feels as if it has resistance. Shouldn’t it spin pretty easily?
Just trying to to figure out if it is the motor before the tech comes. That way I can try to get him to bring a motor with. Otherwise it will require a second trip. Less profitable for him as well as taking longer to get it repaired. If it wasn’t for the warranty I’d just swap in a new motor and capacitor myself. I can get an OEM motor and capacitor for about $300. With no assurance that will fix it. Or, pay the $100 deductible and have a tech do it. Less money but more time w/o it cooling our home.
So, does the fact the fan only runs for a few minutes point to the fan motor being shot? Also, I can rotate the squirrel cage by hand but it does not spin easily. It only rotates another few inches after I give it a spin. Feels as if it has resistance. Shouldn’t it spin pretty easily?
Just trying to to figure out if it is the motor before the tech comes. That way I can try to get him to bring a motor with. Otherwise it will require a second trip. Less profitable for him as well as taking longer to get it repaired. If it wasn’t for the warranty I’d just swap in a new motor and capacitor myself. I can get an OEM motor and capacitor for about $300. With no assurance that will fix it. Or, pay the $100 deductible and have a tech do it. Less money but more time w/o it cooling our home.
#9
05-07-19, 10:56 AM
Group Moderator
#11
05-25-19, 05:20 AM
To conclude, blower motor replaced and all is good. The tech first replaced the capacitor as the old one did not read correctly. The motor did the usual, started and died after about 30 minutes. Then motor was replaced and all is working properly. He used one of those generic motors that is 1/6 to 1/2 hp depending on how you wire it and what size capacitor you use, instead of the specific Carrier motor. Less than half the cost of the OEM. Now I know for the future.
Interesting to me was I had been told to put the blower to continuous for the cooling season. After the repair I tried both always on, and only when cooling. Found the house is more comfortable and stays cooler if I leave it in the auto position.
Thanks for the help.
Interesting to me was I had been told to put the blower to continuous for the cooling season. After the repair I tried both always on, and only when cooling. Found the house is more comfortable and stays cooler if I leave it in the auto position.
Thanks for the help.
