Nordyne furnace; blower on, no igniter, double blinking red light

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Old 09-26-20, 07:23 PM
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Question Nordyne furnace; blower on, no igniter, double blinking red light

Hello all,
I am new to this forum as I have an issue with my Nordyne GC3BA-036C-B heat and AC system.
This summer I had water issues with it, but the AC has been working fine since and I didn't have the need for heat; as the impending winter approaches, I decided to start it up and it wasn't working at all.
I could see issues with the circuit board, which I replaced. I am getting a steady red light (waiting for heat request); as I request heat, the blower starts right up, however the igniter does not turn on.
I see the red light blinking twice. The gas valve does not open.



The double blinking light should mean (from a google search) issues with the pressure switch.
I removed the grey rubber tubes from the pressure switch, and a drop of water fell from it, which is not a good sign; beside that drop of water, the hose connectors were clean. I removed it and re-installed; after re-install, I got no blower and 3 blinking lights; something might have broken with the pressure switch during re-installation, which is fine as I was going to get a new one anyway. I unplugged one of the wires to the blower (bypassing the pressure switch), and it started correctly. I will order a new switch, however my question is:
why is the igniter not starting up? Do issues with the pressure switch prevent the igniter from starting up at all? The burner unit is a bit rusted out as you can see from the below picture, but when I test the igniter (multi meter set on ohm, connected to the two igniter plugs) the needle jumps up without problems.


Here are some more pictures.
The flame sensor looks pretty clean, so I didn't remove it to clean it


The igniter also looks pretty undamaged from the water issue.

The transformer shows signs of rust but the circuit board is powering up correctly, so I am not sure if this is the issue.

Any input would be greatly appreciated; thank you in advance!
 
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  #2  
Old 09-26-20, 07:36 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

Have you fixed the water leaks ? That's important.

On a call for heat.....
1) the draft inducer starts
2) the pressure switch closes
3) the igniter starts to heat
4) after igniter heats - gas valve opens
5) flame sensor looks for flame. If not there in 7 seconds.... the cycle ends and a purge starts
Cycle restarts.

All steps must be ok in order.
If you had water in the pressure switch.... it may be bad.
 
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Old 09-27-20, 07:05 AM
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Hi PJmax,
thanks for the response; there is no water in the system that I can see right now, the issue happened once this summer and hasn't happened again since. Do you recommend looking at a particular place for water?
How bad may it be? I am already planning on replacing the pressure switch, it's coming this week.
 
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Old 09-27-20, 07:19 AM
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Don’t replace any parts, not yet.
The pressure switch may very well be doing it’s job.
Check for clogged lines in the tubing. Or a clogged nipple off the pressure switch.
Is the inducer running constantly? When the error shows?
 
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Old 09-27-20, 10:49 AM
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Hi roughneck77,
the pressure switch does not seem clogged; I can (gently) put it on a vacuum and it will move inside, nor do the lines (I can blow through them). Yes the inducer is running constantly; the error shows shortly after the inducer starts. (the light goes from solid red, waiting on heat request, to blinking twice).
 
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Old 09-27-20, 11:04 AM
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Is the pressure switch electrically closing or remaining open, when the inducer runs?
 
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Old 09-27-20, 12:23 PM
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I am not sure how to test that.
 
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Old 09-27-20, 12:27 PM
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With your meter set. You can ring out the switch and see if it’s open or closed.
 
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Old 10-04-20, 05:09 PM
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I have heat, but I also have another question
tl,dr
- Original issue was water entered the system and damaged the circuit board (clear) and made also its way into the pressure switch (not immediate to confirm)
- Steps taken to troubleshoot
  1. Replaced circuit board
  2. Confirmed all the circuits were working with a multimeter
  3. Replaced pressure switch
(end of tl,dr)

Here's the context for the new question. I replaced the pressure switch with a new one, and at that point I also re-confirmed all the circuits were working correctly, except for the igniter not receiving any voltage after the pressure switch closed. On a hunch, I swapped hoses for the draft inducer and drain collector, and after 20 seconds, the igniter started up, valve opened, flames burning, heat coming out of the vents (woo!); turning off the heat demand correctly shuts down the system. Looking closer at the part, I think they sent me the wrong pressure switch; same pressure limit, but I think it starts the opposite way it should. Here are the two parts
- 632252 (original) 1.74 - N/O SPC - DC
- 63244R (new) 1.74 - N/O - D
My question is: is it ok to keep it the way it is or do I need to pursue having the pressure switch replaced?
Thank you all.

I confirmed that the old pressure switch had water inside when I was putting the tools back and bringing out the old parts, water started leaking from the old pressure switch, and rattling it confirmed that there is water inside it.


old

new
 
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Old 10-04-20, 06:27 PM
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Same specs......both N.O. pressure - 1.74" W/C.

All furnace pressure switches are normally open unless it has three terminals.
Then it can be normally open or normally closed depending on connection.
 
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Old 10-04-20, 06:52 PM
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Thank you PJmax;
should I try to make make any changes to the current setup so that I can swap the hoses or can I just leave things as they are?
 
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Old 10-04-20, 06:55 PM
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You swapped hoses and it works ?
So it wasn't the pressure switch or does the new pressure switch work the way the hoses are supposed to be ?
 
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Old 10-04-20, 07:14 PM
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I swapped the hoses and everything works, however I have pictures from a few months ago when I had water damage that shows the hoses being the other way. They might have been re-attached wrongly at that time or the pressure switch was in a different position that allowed it to work correctly, I don't know. The new pressure switch has a green outlet, not sure if that usually means it's the drain outlet or the draft outlet.

 
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