How to wire Aprilaire humidifier to Carrier furnace?
HI Folks,
I have an April Aire 600 Humidifier and a Carrier 59TP6B Furnace and the wiring diagram that came with the Humidifier does not work. It is straight forward but I must be missing something, I have the Model 60 Humidistat, does anybody have a good wiring diagram for me. Any help is much appreciated as AprilAire offer no support at all.
This Diagram Produces No Result, no voltage is sent to the Solenoid.
R -------------------------R C--------------------------COM 24V------------------------S
W-------------------------W/W1
gf (not used)
G (not used)
H--------------------------HUM 24V
H------------------------------------------------------------S
ODT---outdoor sensor
ODT---outdoor sensor
Thanks
Rich
Last edited by mppanj12; 12-11-20 at 09:32 AM.
Reason: Update
Basically you need to get 24v to the solenoid. It doesn't matter if you wire the yellow wiring exactly like I have it. You can switch the R or the C thru the HH terminals.
The W wire is what activates the humidifying process. Connect the to the HUM terminal. Make sure that HUM terminal is 24vAC and not 120vAC.
Hi PJ,
How do I test the HUM Terminal on my furnace, I have a voltmeter and understand how to use it but I only have 1 HUM Terminal on my board, 1 lead to the HUM Terminal and where does the other lead go?
1. I should put 1 terminal on the HUM and the other on the COM if I get voltage that means it's probably 24V
OR
2.I should put 1 terminal on the HUM and the other on the White Fat Neutral Wire (isn't Com the same thing, Neutral) and I should get 120V
Hi, it does appear that your board does not have H H terminals, I would parallel the leads from the Humidistat up with W1 and C so when there is a call for heat and humidity is required the humidifier would operate.
Geo🇺🇸
This wiring method automatically opens up the Solenoid when the Furnace Ignites, this bypasses the Humistat which monitors the Humidity Levels. I want the Humistat to decide when it opens the solenoid and humidifies the home, any thoughts? I understand the HUM terminal is what gives power to the Humistat but the system is running like when the furnace ignites the water starts running regardless of the Humidity, any thoughts. Also, the Auto Fan Function is not working, supposedly when the Blower Activation is set to on it will turn on automatically if more moisture is needed, in test mode this is not activating.
I don't allow the humidistat to force the blower on without heat with my installs.
Not enough moisture is transferred thru cold air.
If you want the humidistat to control the blower..... you'll need two more wires to the furnace board. You'd need to use the G and Gf terminals.
This wiring method automatically opens up the Solenoid when the Furnace Ignites, this bypasses the Humistat which monitors the Humidity Levels.
Power on the HUM terminal tells the humidistat that the furnace is in heating mode. Then it's the job of the humidistat to turn the humidifier on based on set and actual humidity. If the G and Gf aren't connected..... turn off the blower control. Make sure unit is not in test mode.
Thanks PJ,
I am giving this a try for 24 hours but I think it's working the way it's supposed too. You are a life saver, you have more knowledge than AprilAire and Carrier combined. Also, I installed a Scale Interceptor with strainer + .250 flow control, water is my expertise, lol. Thanks Again PJ.
I have a 12" round main trunk that is reduced to 8" about 6 feet from the furnace. The 8" is taken from a hole in the end cap on the 12" main. I guess those are called shortway reducers. The 8" trunk is about 1" off center. I can feel warm air coming out of the vents connected to the 8" pipe, but there is no force. Those connected to the 12" main do send air out with some force. I am thinking this is due to the hole in the cap eccentric reducer because the air hits a 3" wall on the cap..
I am thinking of replacing this shortway reducer with a proper tapering reducer, with a 1" off center. These reducers have 2" collars and a 4' tapered mid section. So, I need to cut the 8" to make a 4" gap between the two trunk sections, right? I can push the 8" aside to put the collar on the 12" main. How do I insert the other end of the reducer into the 8" trunk? Do I have to dismantle the entire 8" trunk? Would appreciate your thoughts. Thank you.
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I recently moved into a mobile home that needs work. It's a three bedroom with the furnace on on end with the smaller bedroom.s and the common bathroom. The other end of the trailer has the master bedroom and bath. It's easy too tell that the airflow on the master bedroom end is very low. Do I need a new furnace or are there any work arounds?
12-11-20, 09:24 AM
