I need advice of what can be done with my furnace. I'm not a handy man and I'm unfortunately on the spectrum and people tend to take advantage of that. I figured I'd try to reach out to some of you that are much smarter than I in hopes to get an idea of how to solve my problem. I have this oil burner inside my house that spits out water whenever it runs. It seems like a terrible design for something that is inside the house, there is no drain for the water to go into so I am left with putting a bucket where the water comes out then about every 2 to 4 hrs walking the bucket to the bathroom to dump the water down the toilet. I even have to get up around 2 or 3 in the morning to dump out the bucket and if I happen to sleep through the night I wake up to the room and hallway flooded with water. Is there anything that I can do to stop this from happening that won't kill me, leave me badly burned, or blow my house up? I'm getting tired of having to empty this bucket every day multiple times a day. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time.
You have a boiler. That’s the pressure/temperature relief valve. It’s supposed to be run to catch your attention as it signals an issue with the water side of the boiler.
The valve is either leaking or the boiler pressure is too high.
The expansion tank may need service. or possibly replacement.
The large 3 foot expansion tanks mounted in the floor joists overhead are usually serviced waiting for the boiler to cool down, then opening the expansion tank tank drain valve and waiting for any or all water to dribble or gurgle out.
After that it might be necessary to admit a little replacement water to the boiler and to bleed some of the radiators.
mnb,
You may be switched to the boiler section of this forum. A boiler has water that heats your house and a furnace heats air that blows up through registers just for future use.
Now for your problem. You have a pressure relief valve which is a safety valve that releases water at 30 psi. The cause could be a bad expansion or extrol tank or a defective automatic water feeder of a defective tankless coil if you have one.
Pics of the front of your boiler and piping would be very helpful to see what you have. Exactly how handy are you. Do you know where the manual boiler shutoff is in case you need to shut it off.
Your feed valve is the bell shaped valve with the lever after the vacuum breaker with the pipe coming off the side. Your manual cold water boiler feed valve should be before all of these to shut the water off to the boiler. You do not want to shut this off until you find the problem because you have a steel boiler which you do not want to run without water.
You have a round temp & pressure gauge on the front of your boiler. The top of the gauge will read your pressure. If you can see if it is around 30 psi when the relief valve goes off.
You may have a round tank hanging from your pipe over the boiler. That is your expansion tank that accepts heated water . When tapped with a screwdriver the top half should sound solid and the bottom half hollow, where the rubber bladder is.
If the whole tank sounds solid you have a bdefective tank that must be replaced. The main thing is to post the pics if possible to see what you have.
If it warms up a little where you are you can try shutting off the boiler for a while. Without the water being heated if it's your expansion tank then the leaking will stop.
That should be enough for now to get you started. Hope this helps a little.
Hello.
The Amana furnace started to leak water, but the furnace itself still runs fine. After poking at for a bit, I have determined that it is due to the fact the condensate trap (basically a plastic bucket) has developed a crack underneath, and water is dripping out of it.
I believe I have found a replacement part on Amazon.
[url]https://www.amazon.ca/Goodman-Drain-Trap-Part-20171701/dp/B004GFO9PM[/url]
The parts certainly seems to look like what I have.
My questions are:
1. For people who are experienced with the Amana high efficacy furnace, is the part on Amazon correct?
2. How do I safely remove the wire and hose from the condensate trap.
3. Once new trap is screwed back in, how do I safely re-house the wire and re-connect the hose?
Just want to make sure I purchase the correct part, and do not break the hoses
I have attached the photo of the furnace, the condensate trap, and where the crack is.
Thanks.
[img]https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1500x2000/bn6c8qm_b6d72ee9845adb76ca0342144f556a9f8f2c1519.jpg[/img]
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Hi everyone, first post here. Read countless threads regarding my furnace with a three blinking issue.
It is a Ducane 80% efficient furnace. Installed ~6 years ago, the tech never registered it so I do not have a warranty.
Currently it has an issue where the inducer motor will start and most of the time (70%) I'll get a three blinking LED. This indicates that there is a problem with the pressure switch. Here we go again!
[b]What's been done:[/b]
- 3 months ago the main board was replaced because it was failing to start (killing the inducer motor after a few seconds, killing gas after one minute, not starting at all, etc and throwing a three LED blink), three LED flashes but the problem behaved differently. It often would flash nearly instantly the three flashes. It worked flawlessly for these three months.
a. This is was done after a tech came out and fully looked it over and said for sure it is the main board.
b. Verified there is no blockage in exhaust
c. Removed inducer motor, lubricated/cleaned and new gasket was made.
d. Verified Igniter has ~58ohm, all temp safety switches pass continuity test.
e. Thermostat is bypassed during troubleshooting (R and W bridged)
f. Thermostat is a Nest. It does have C wire.
g. Replacing or bypassing the pressure switch does not solve the issue
- Three months later the problem has returned but behaves a bit differently.
a. Installed a new main board and the issue seems to be about the same. With this new board I can get it to work sometimes, about 40% of the time. Once the igniter comes on it will work for as long as needed.
[b]Video of the problem in action:[/b] [url]https://vimeo.com/519231172[/url]
[b]Video of description of what's been done/checked: [/b][url]https://vimeo.com/519228011[/url]
[b]Video of it beginning to work, notice igniter glows orange (blooper)[/b]: [url]https://vimeo.com/519232555[/url]
Can someone please suggest what I can do next! I'm pulling my hair out, a tech coming out is just going to charge an arm and a leg. The previous tech that wanted to replace the board wanted over $1000 for the job! The part is about $100.
[img]https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1210x908/20210303_161336_d9534ecf9754a87ff1c847448b2b18ecfd601e8d.jpg[/img]
[img]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/20210303_165649_a4a83b43679d3e1d57f2b0fe99dacffbc45b58bd.jpg[/img]
03-05-21, 07:17 AM
