I have this particular valve with fitting style as shown on there on the top of the rusty 20 lb propane tank. I'm wanting to be able to connect the one (black) end of the connection hose there to the tank. Looks as though it might not work with that hose connection unless I replace the valve with a different style, or perhaps there's some adapter available that can work? Any comments appreciated.
To connect to that tank you need a regulator with the POL proper tank fitting.
I did neglect to mention I my hope/plan is to be able to use that connection hose (in my photo) along with the gauge connector as shown in this picture, to connect to that tank valve. So maybe all I'd need to do so would be to acquire that particular adapter as XSleeper provided the link?
Okay as far as I can tell by various numbers stamped on the metal of the tank, the date is 04/94. There's something on there too that says "must be re-qualified within 12 years of manufacturing date".
I don't think anyone will fill that tank with that valve.
It's a shame because I have had problems caused by the new "safety" valves while the old style were simple and reliable. But that's the world we live in.
That's an ugly looking tank.
I'd take a wire brush to it, give it a new coat of white paint, then take it to the tank exchange rack at a local supermarket.
Around me, the supplier is "Blue Rhino" and when they get an exchange tank with old fittings, IIRC, the do a water pressure test, if it passes they recertify, swap out the old fitting for a new fitting, then put it back in circulation.
In my area, an empty 20 pound tank is $40 new, and refill is around $20-25. So, unless there's a 'history' to that particular tank, I'd just make it look nicer, then swap it at the local supermarket tank exchange.
I've only had 1 twenty pound propane where the valve broke/stuck open, not a big deal because there were no open flames around, (and just-to-be-sure, I disconnected it from the grill and chucked it into the swimming pool, the tank sank so there was no possibility of a fire: after 20 minutes I dove in and retrieved the tank).
Hi there. We had a chimney liner installed recently and have a question about the positioning of the barometric damper in the flue pipe connecting the furnace to the chimney.
Here is a picture:
[img]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/480x640/img_20210716_134350004_83a4b1d5c38c25dc5cab2f8c70a16b3cc8668d67.jpg[/img]
[i]Is the barometric damper correctly positioned?[/i]
Any feedback welcomed . Many thanks
This is a Carrier Model 58SSB095-DC, Propane heat.
So we ran out of propane and got the tank refilled. In the meantime, the hot water heater pilot would not stay lit. So to test to make sure it wasn't a propane issue, I started the heater that didn't work. I went back to the hot water heater, cleaned the thermocouple reinstalled and it then pilot stayed lit and that's working fine.
But still the heat doesn't work (not that I need it now but I don't want to wait until winter to fix it). The blower comes on, I get the click click of the igniter and I can see it sparking but no ignition--it doesn't seem like its getting any propane. I took off the igniter cleaned the tip the tube for the ignition propane was not clogged.
Any ideas why I can't get this heater to ignite?