Coleman mobile home propane furnace, c.1990, model 7956B856
Because the pilot burns yellow and lazy (and goes out when the blower comes on), I want to clean the pilot orifice. To remove the tube, do I remove the small cover (see photo) where the pilot tube and thermocouple go in? And then I'll see what I need to do?
Will I also need to disconnect it at the gas valve?
To work on that furnace you'll need to shut the gas OFF to the furnace. Disconnect the gas line to the furnace. Pull out the entire burner assembly for service. In the diagram 13 is the burner assembly. 23 is the round plate that holds the assy in place. 22 is the gas valve.
I got sucked in..... "click here for service manual". It took me to the paid site.
A manual would be good to have. service manual for sale
Removing that small plate won't really help much. It needs to be off to replace the thermocouple or pilot tube, but more than that should be taken off. While doing what you describe it would be wise to replace the thermocouple unless its reasonably new, and check the burn area for rust outs and/or cracks. The gas valve is easy to pull off as you probably have flex supply tubing that doesn't need to be taken off. Check this video, it's not great, but should give you an idea as to what is involved. Good luck. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k0uc1uGz-Kw
You should find the proper thermocouple at about any hardware or big box store. They are pretty standard and if the length is greater than you need just don't uncoil it near the gas valve to keep it neat. Make sure to hand thread the pilot tube and thermocouple into the gas valve before putting a wrench on them to avoid cross-threading.
There are usually two types available. Basic replacement and universal kit. Same thermocouple just extra brackets. I usually carry 36" units. That usually covers most applications. As mentioned..... if you get one too long just carefully roll it up near the valve. It's shown in that video.
Hi people, I have a Rheem gas furnace, model# RGRS-06EMAES. Toward the end of the spring, I noticed it wasn't starting, just producing a humming sound. I checked to make sure the water lines were draing correctly and unobstructed and finding no issues there, I just left it for the summer. I'm now looking at it again since the cold will be upon us very soon. I have removed the inducer motor and checked to see that it spins freely on it's own-it does but there does seem to be a slight resistence. If I apply 120 volts to the black and white terminals, it hums but I can get it to start by giving the fan a slight push. It starts running slow, and then about 3 secons later it runs at full speed. Does any of this sound normal? I left my multi-meter at work so I can't test the run capacitor at this time. Does anyone have any further ideas?
Thanks in advance.
Does anyone know if I can replace the:
[b]Honeywell TH1110D2009 U T1 Non-Programmable Thermostat[/b]
with:
[b]Honeywell TH4110U2005 U T4 Pro Programmable Thermostat[/b]
I need to be able to program a schedule for my elderly mother living with us now
Is it the same wiring? if so, I can probably just replace the modules without messing with the wiring.
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a tech installed it originally
Thank you
10-01-21, 08:42 PM
