Hi there, fairly new to this but otherwise handy. We have an old oil fired boiler and noticed that when we turned the heat on yesterday (first time of the year, the circulator pump started to leak. There are two pumps on the same line, top one is fine- bottom one leaks. We also depend on this for hot water, when the boiler clicks on for hot water but not heat, there is no leak. I have attached photos of the pump, wondering if its a common easy to fix leak or something requiring a whole new pump. It says "taco" on it but no model number that i can find. The motor attached is GE.
Had Trane high efficiency heating and air installed in attic 8 yrs ago. They installed 1/2” clear plastic tubing condensate drain into washing machine drain. Gas odor comes out when washer spins out. So much so that I have to increase ventilation in house.This doesn’t happen when heat and air are off. How should this be repaired? I have had several plumbers, HVAC service look at this over the yrs.
I have a Trane VX95 HVAC system that was installed in 2016 and manufactured 12/2015, model number in the heating portion shows TUN2B080A9V3VBA. I fired it up earlier in the week and got no heat out of it. Getting a code 2 on it. After it cycles I want to say 3 times through the whole startup sequence the inducer fan stops then the main blower motor starts running on one of the lower speeds. The 5A fuse on the control board is good.
Here are the things I've done to troubleshoot it so far:
I have pulled and cleaned the flame sensor (it didn't look bad at all).
I made sure there was no water in the trap and all the drain lines were clean and clear and no problems with flow through them. I even bleached the trap just to make sure and blew out the lines and the trap.
I made sure that I am getting vacuum on the vacuum lines (there isn't much at all though) and that the lines were completely clean and clear with no blockages.
I checked for 24 volts at the transformer, and it was putting out about 27.5. I work with low voltage equipment access control, intrusion, and CCTV along with all the programming and such as a lead field service technician with Honeywell HBS, so this is pretty normal to see a reading of this to me.
I am getting 51 ohms resistance on the igniter. I do not have a good view of it through the little window so I can't tell you if it glows or not since I have to run upstairs to turn the thermostat to heat so I can get a heat command to the unit, and from my understanding I will not be able to get back down in time to see it glow anyway.
The inducer motor spins up as normal and some time in the cycle and I get voltage on the gas valve for a number of seconds, then things spin back down and it tries to start the cycle again. I hear relays kick in while this is all happening.
Thermostat seems to be working as normal, and the air conditioning side works no problem.
One thing I did note is that when I pulled the plug off of the gas valve, a White Rodgers 36J54-202 with Trane part number D674542P01 I get a bit over 5 million ohms of resistance between the high and common, and the low and common terminals. I get infinite resistance on between the high side and the low side terminal, which I would expect. When I troubleshoot wiring and circuits at work and I see resistances that high I generally say the wiring or whatever device is bad because it is pretty well infinite resistance. I simply do not know enough about troubleshooting this component to say anything on it, and I couldn't find the specs for resistance on it.
I haven't troubleshot the pressure switch because I am not 100% sure what that would involve. It is a Honeywell C342634P62. I am sure that I could borrow a manometer if needed to troubleshoot it since it is a vacuum actuated switch it looks like.
My question is where do I go from here, and what would you say is my problem based on what I have listed? Thanks.