Honeywell gas valve not tuning on with power
#1
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Honeywell gas valve not tuning on with power
I have a Burham gas boiler that's about 25 years old and it has been working reliably. Starting last year, the gas valve sometimes does not turn on even when 24V is present. I have to disconnect one of the wires to the valve and reconnect it. Then i hear it click and the valve turns on. This happened 3 times last heating season. This year, it just happened for the first time and disconnecting and reconnecting the wire made it turn on as usual.
Does the valve need to be replaced? The valve model # is:
Honeywell VR800C 1166
Thank you.
Does the valve need to be replaced? The valve model # is:
Honeywell VR800C 1166
Thank you.
#2
Welcome to the forums.
Is it a loose connection or is disconnecting power and reconnecting resetting the valve ?
Can you disconnect power to the valve at the other end of the wire..... away from the valve ?
Is it a loose connection or is disconnecting power and reconnecting resetting the valve ?
Can you disconnect power to the valve at the other end of the wire..... away from the valve ?
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Hi Pete,
It's definitely not a loose connection. I can disconnect at flue spill switch or anywhere else and when it is reconnected, I can hear the valve click on and flame ignites immediately. Is there a solenoid built-in the gas valve? Maybe it gets stuck and doesn't move sometimes?
It's definitely not a loose connection. I can disconnect at flue spill switch or anywhere else and when it is reconnected, I can hear the valve click on and flame ignites immediately. Is there a solenoid built-in the gas valve? Maybe it gets stuck and doesn't move sometimes?
#5
If you have confirmed that you have 24vAC at the valve when it doesn't open then it is bad.
Do they stick..... occasionally but gas valves rarely go bad.
Most gas valves have two solenoids in them. Basically primary and secondary.
This is done so that at least one solenoid will close.
Do they stick..... occasionally but gas valves rarely go bad.
Most gas valves have two solenoids in them. Basically primary and secondary.
This is done so that at least one solenoid will close.
#6
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Current is what moves the valve solenoid's armature so you could measure the valve input current, when sticking & when not.
If warming the valve with a hair dryer for a few minutes makes it more reliable then I'd say you need a new valve.
Years ago mine cost $400.
If warming the valve with a hair dryer for a few minutes makes it more reliable then I'd say you need a new valve.
Years ago mine cost $400.
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If it is sticking, why disconnecting and reconnecting the wire makes it open? Maybe little more force when solenoid is first energized?
I will measure the current in both states but since the problem only happens 2-3 times a heating season, it might be a while.
Thanks guys.
I will measure the current in both states but since the problem only happens 2-3 times a heating season, it might be a while.
Thanks guys.